Woodshops

This page is about general woodworking tools and tips. For the woodshop at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA, see MN Woodshop.

What is a woodshop?

A woodshop is a space for tools to process wood and soft materials. People bring in materials like plywood, solid lumber, plastics, and foam, and then they use hand and power tools to cut, assemble, and shape the tools.

Products you can make are anything from turned pens or small coasters, to boxes, to furniture and architecture:

• Blades are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
• Abrasives are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
• Fasteners are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks, pin nails, staples.
• Aligners are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
• Adhesives are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.
• Finishes protect the surface and change the appearance for design or durability purposes. Common finishes: stains, paint, urethanes, hard waxes.

But what about lasers? See: Laser Cutters, MN Laser Cutters

Safety considerations

In general

• Safety is our most important priority. You cannot rush safety; woodworking just takes time. Always look at the machines and the work area. Don't distract people when they are actively cutting. Don't run or walk fast through the shop. Watch your back when turning around while holding materials. If something doesn't feel right, stop. If you need help, ask someone or a staff member.
• Do not walk away from an active cut. If a machine is running, stay with it. If you are done, turn it off, wait for it to stop moving, and then you can look away or walk away. If you need to adjust something while the machine is running, consider turning it off.
• Don't rush or work when tired. You may miss safety checks. Accidents happen when you try to do "just one more cut"—come back tomorrow refreshed.
  • Stay hydrated
  • Stay focused
  • Plan your restroom breaks

Hazards from cutting

Moving blades and rotating bits are connected to very powerful machinery, and almost all of these machines do not have a way to detect that something has gone wrong and shut themselves off. (The one exception is the SawStop.) So as an operator you must be very careful:

• No loose clothing near the blade/bit. No gloves! Most of us wear short sleeve shirts and no jewelry from the elbows down. If a loose thread or a corner of your clothing gets caught then you may be pulled into the machine. Nobody likes splinters or sharp wood edges, but being mindful of rough edges reduces the chance of being poked or cut.
  • You can use gloves to move materials and tools, just take them off before turning on a machine. (If a machine grabs a bit of a glove, it will rip it off your hand.)
    • This is what emergency departments call a "de-gloving event." It is horrible, so do not wear gloves when using a machine.
    • This is also why you shouldn't wear rings or jewelry, even from around a chain on your neck. (Put them back on after you are done working.)
  • The SawStop does have a brake that will drop the table saw blade if your skin makes contact with the blade. This has saved countless people from deep cuts or worse. However, do not rely on the brake. Even if the blade drops, you will still likely get a cut or materials can get snagged and still harm you.
• Keep long hair tied back. Anything longer than shoulder length can be problematic. It's the same problem of clothes being caught in a machine. Don't turn around too fast near an active machine. Many of us use larger dust masks which help keep long hair in place.
• No necklaces. Even when tucked into you shirt.
• Always wear eye protection. The blades and bits throw chips faster than you can react, and they are small and sharp. Choose glasses that wrap around the side of your eyes. Many of us have oversized ones that fit over reading glasses.
• Only one person on a machine. One person is usually better than two. Woodworking involves subtle movements to move materials around and machines are very loud.
• Avoid wearing rings or bracelets. If you injure your fingers or hand, swelling may occur, making it impossible to remove the ring—which can lead to more swelling.

Hazards from dust

Even when you are not actively working, there is almost always a lot of dust floating in the air in the woodshop.

• Consider wearing a mask or respirator. Sawdust stays airborne for a long time and it is an irritant. Prolonged exposure to sawdust can create serious health concerns. An N95 or N100 mask is great to keep the particles out. Many of us use masks with replaceable filters because they are more comfortable to wear and have a better seal.
• Use dust collection. Whenever possible, use the dust collectors attached to the machines or a ShopVac. A downdraft table also helps to capture particles. After you are done with a machine or sanding on a table, use broom to push dust into pans and place in garbage cans.
• Clean around the machines. Dust is also slippery. The floors should be relatively dust-free to prevent slipping when walking or turning.

Hazards from fumes

• Do not cut materials that could give off fumes. When in doubt, ask a staff member and try to ventilate the shop. Some materials with paints or plastics can heat up and release hazardous gasses, so be mindful of what you cut. That said, everything gives off some amount of fumes such as cutting MDF, using glue, or applying finishes.

Hazards from nails and screws

• Do not leave sharp fasteners on the floor or tables. It's easy to step on or grab a nail or end of a wood screw. Put the fasteners back in their bins or bags, or sweep them into garbage cans.

Hazards from falling materials

• Use support arms or support stands. You only have two hands and when you cut materials the two halves often pivot away in opposite directions. In the case of a miter saw this means the cut ends of the materials can fall away and pinch the blade: this will throw the wood back at you. Extend support arms or use a stand.

Hazards from kickback

• Wood pinching on a spinning blade can throw wood back at you or someone else. It happens faster than you can react. Always keep pressure and control on your material and watch for any opportunity to have the wood pinch the blade or turn oddly into the blade. Even if you push wood through the table saw cleanly, the wood may relax beyond the blade and curve inward. Always know how to stop the machine or keep control of the material.
• Use the Riving Knife. This is a key safety device to avoid kickback. You should never use the table saw without the riving knife in place.
• Don't stand in the path of small thin material. When cutting on the table saw you may be ripping a small strip off one side. Stay to the left of the saw blade and allow a small gap so that if kickback happens then the small piece will shoot past your hip.
• Use a miter gauge or crosscut sled for material that is wider than it is long. A miter gauge or sled rides in a track that prevents the material from turning left/right. Holding your material to the miter gauge or sled lets you safely push it through a table saw blade.
• Clamp non-square material. Anything at an angle should be clamped to a sled or a miter gauge. This goes for round poles. And this is for the table saw, miter saw, and band saw. The blade will grab a round side and spin it harder than you can hold onto it.
• See also: Table saw accidents

Hazards from clogged or insufficient dust collection

Always use the dust collector or ShopVac to suck dust from the work surface and the machine. Dust can clog up the machine leading to damage. Always check that it feels like air is being sucked away, and replace bags if not.

• Sawdust on the floors can make them slippery
• Too much dust below the bandsaws can create a fire hazard and/or throw dust back up into the air
• Overfilled dust collection bags won't vacuum
• Overfilled dust collection bags can break
• If a ShopVac feels heavy, it's probably full
• If a ShopVac doesn't suck, then the bag might be full, the filter might be clogged, or the bag could be broken
• There are dust catch trays below the downdraft table
• Too much dust in the table saw can jam the elevation mechanism and lead to stripped gears
• Not vacuuming the thickness planer can result in uneven cuts
• Not turning on the jointer dust collector can result in damage to the machine
• Not using the dust shoe or a ShopVac on the CNC router can create a fire when drilling holes or small pockets
• Overfilled hand sander bags can lead to sawdust spilling back onto your work or sanded particles thrown back into the air

Hazards from wet wood

In general, wet wood is hard to work with and it can cause problems on the machines. Wood from a lumber yard may be kiln-dried, which helps. But letting wood rest in your shop for a while helps to let it acclimate to your local humidity.

• Wet wood can warp. All wood has moisture and as you cut it a bend may form. Let it dry out before planing or cutting on the table saw.
• Wet wood can trigger the SawStop. And SawStop cartridges are about $100/each right now. Wet wood is electrically conductive, and if you hold the wood then you may trigger the brake.

Hazards from wood irritants

Wood dust in general is problematic and you can become sensitized to it, leading to rashes or breathing difficulties. Some woods can be more irritating; the Wood Allergies and Toxicity database is a good resource. (Wood that has been finished is generally non-irritating since it's sealed.)

• Always test unknown woods and ask for advice on #woodshop Slack.
• Use dust collection and/or ShopVac your work area often.
• Wear a mask or respirator when in the woodshop.
• If the wood smells bad when you're sanding or milling it, stop.

Some woods to be mindful of:

• Cocobolo: Deep contrasting grain and tight knots.
• Lacewood: This is name for a number of species that have the same beautiful wave-like grain.
• Purpleheart: A unique rich purple/eggplant color.
• Redwood: Some redwood may cause breathing issues.
• Walnut: That deep reddish brown grain, but for people with nut allergies you may be sensitive to this.
• Wenge: Dark with circular striping, and may cause abdominal cramps and central nervous system effects
• Zebrawood: High contrast undulating stripes, but also an irritant which can include stomach upset

Hazards from reclaimed wood or staples

Reclaimed wood may have nails, screws, or staples still in it. Even lumber from a warehouse store may have stapled tags on the ends. These metal bits can deflect a blade or cause breakage, which can lead to a safety concern.

• Carefully remove all metal from the wood. Inspect all angles of it, especially the ends or undersides.
• Be wary of reclaimed lumber. Know where it came from and watch out for bolts.
• Pallet wood may have nails. Pallets may have extra nails from their quick construction.

Hazards from noise

Machines are loud, and wood being cut also tends to be loud. Wearing ear protection is highly recommended to prevent hearing damage. There are several methods people use:

• Standard foam earplugs. They are cheap and portable. They may become uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.
• Tethered soft earplugs. Usually with a cable, these have softer tips and are more comfortable for longer.
• Noise canceling headphones and earbuds. Many people like to use the noise canceling feature or listen to music. Be sure to keep the music volume low enough that you can hear other people trying to grab your attention or to hear the sound the machine is making.
• Shop-grade earmuffs. These provide excellent hearing protection and comfortable for long periods of time.

Wearing hearing protection also prevents sawdust from getting lodged in your ears!

Hazards from dried glue

Using glue is absolutely fine, but too much glue can pose problems for the jointer, thickness planer, or your finish. The best strategy is to use only as much glue as you need to coat and stick your pieces together, clamp snuggly to create as much squeeze-out, then use a damp rag to remove excess glue.

• Wipe off excess glue. After you squeeze wood together, use a moistened (not sopping wet) rag to wipe off excess glue. (Wash out dirty rags and pails in the wet room, not the bathroom sink!)
• Scrape excess dried glue. Use a scraping tool to remove the big blobs
• Tape the clamps. Glue can get really stuck to the clamps, so add some blue tape to the clamps before the glue-up, especially when making large panels.
• Hard glue blobs can damage the planer or jointer. Glue is harder than you think, and it can dull the planer jointer's blades. Scrape excess glue before passing it through.
• Hard glue blobs can deflect the CNC router. Our ShopBot has no feedback mechanism to know that it has wandered off its path. Hard glue blobs work like screws/nails and deflect the path of the router bit.
• Extra glue can create an uneven surface. And that means your cuts will no longer be straight.
• Extra glue can block finish from setting in. And that leads to uneven finish.

Materials

Wood

Of course, wood! Check out the Wood Database for tons of information about different woods. Identification, strength, finishes, etc.

Solid wood

These are going to be your general lumber. Basically a tree that's cut into boards that you can reduce to the sizes you need.

Lumber yards are your best bet for quality and selection, but a local hardware store will stock some things you can use.

People love the feel of "real wood" and it has advantages like being shaped and sanded. You can think of it as a solid material---it's really more like a bundle of straws stuck together with natural glues. However, wood will expand sideways because the wood cells are great at holding moisture. (It was a tree, after all.)

Engineered lumber

These are mostly your plywoods and sheet materials. Most are trees that have been peeled into thin layers, then assembled into panels with glue. Plywood usually has grain placed at 90-degree angles on every other layer, which gives it strength and also means it doesn't change shape that much with weather. There are many types of plywood: cheaply-made big layers that have voids ("holes") and knots, better quality that have less voids or that use MDF cores, or higher end which have smooth void-free sheets and clean veneers.

There are boards made from long flat wood chips: oriented strand board (OSB). It's like plywood, but more glue and less strong. It's better as siding panels.

And there is medium density fiberboard (MDF). This is basically sawdust with glue. It's perfect for making templates or creating complex shapes. It is very heavy (because it's mostly glue) and weak when bending.

Bamboo panels are a little like MDF: bamboo is oriented with ends out and glue fills the gaps. It is very heavy, easy to shape like MDF, and looks nice on the sides and top.

Glues

Most popular glues come from processed oil and they form an incredibly strong bond with wood fibers. Here is a good explanation video.

• Wood glues (e.g. Titebond) have water in them. When you press two pieces of wood together, the glue fills the tiny wood gaps and wraps around fibers. As the water leaves the glue, the glue hardens.

• Epoxy uses a resin and a hardener. The resin flows around the wood fibers, and the hardener links the resin together as it evaporates. Note that this process can generate a lot of heat and it must be done in a well-ventilated area. (You cannot do this at Maker Nexus.)

• Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue, super glue) works by flowing around fibers in the wood. As the glue interacts with ambient moisture, the glue polymerizes forming a hard substance. You have a very short amount of time to let the glue flow on the wood surface and when you press another piece of wood together it hardens and holds the opposite sides together. You can use an accelerator which is basically water in a solvent and it creates a stronger bond: the sprayed accelerator flows into the cracks of the wood and then the CA glue immediately hardens on contact. Baking soda is an accelerator for CA glue.

Gluing endgrain

Remember that solid wood ends are like the edges of a bundle of straws: the surface is actually very uneven and those open ends want to soak up glue (or finish!).

Putting glue on the end grain is said to create a weak joint because the glue doesn't have a lot of sheer strength. But, this video shows how strong the glue itself is: See the short, very interesting test video.

Some local knowledge from our members.

Finishes

• Odie's Oil
  • Wipe on, dry, wipe off. 2 coats usually good. Generally easy to apply.
  • For larger endgrain slabs, recommendation is to use thin coat and allow 1-2 days per coat to dry completely.
  • Cookie slabs can retain a lot of moisture and that will interfere with the hardening process.
• Tung oil finishes

Supplies

Also see the general Supply Sources page.

Tools

Bench Vise

• How to pick a vise? A fun video with serious information

Table Saw

• Using SawStop table saw:
  • Injury mitigation technology: electrical contact-activated brake
  • SawStop Safety System video
  • About buying blades for the SawStop table saw, from the SawStop FAQ:
    • OK: steel or carbide teeth
    • OK: thin kerf, minimum kerf 3/32"
    • OK: 10" saw blade
    • OK: 8" dado stack, maximum thickness 29/32"
    • No: non-conductive teeth, i.e. diamond blades
    • No: lacquer-coated teeth (graphics or coatings on the blade faces are OK)
    • No: anti-kickback shoulders or anti-depth-limiting
    • No: wobble/dial-a-width dado sets
    • No: solid-plate interior dado chippers
    • No: dado blades with molding heads

Wood Lathe

• Using a skew. Nice video explaining skew angles and when to use each.

Wood Chisels

• Sharpening: The grind on DeWalt chisels is very rough out of the box. The edge isn't durable because it is very jagged. To get a good edge on them you need to carefully flatten the surface of the bevel of the chisel with a rough sharpening stone before moving on to finer grits. Sandpaper is not the right tool for the job.

Tips

Basic Tips

• The Way Wood Works -- What Every Woodworker Needs to Know About Wood
• Matt Estlea

Wood Inlay

• How to create dramatic inlays with epoxy
• $15,000 Kitchen Island. Good tips on the overall process of a wood countertop, including epoxy inlay.

Edge Treatment

• Making Edge-Grain Patterned Plywood. The link drops you to the finished piece, the whole video shows how he did it.

Sanding

• So, you think you know how to sand, eh?. Learn to sand correctly.
• Drum sander tips

Table Saw

• General intro to table saw safety
• Blade Height - what is the right height for your cut?
• Tablesaw set up - excellent tips on safety that you might not know about.
• Kickback and how to avoid it. Work safely!
• A different kind of kickback!
• Three different blades - why to use each
• Jointer, Planer, Drum sander - what do they each do and why?
• Half laps on the tablesaw without a dado set

Router

• Which direction to move the router?

Drilling

• Forstner bits and how to use them

Turning

• Richard Raffan
• Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)

Misc

• An analysis of Parallel clamps
• Tips on precision work with our tools