Woodshops: Difference between revisions

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* '''Blades''' are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
* '''Blades''' are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
* '''Abrasives''' are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
* '''Abrasives''' are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
* '''Fasteners''' are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks.
* '''Fasteners''' are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks, pin nails, staples.
* '''Aligners''' are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
* '''Aligners''' are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
* '''Adhesives''' are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.
* '''Adhesives''' are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.

Revision as of 20:13, 28 February 2025

This page is about general woodworking tools and tips. For the wood shop at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA, see MN Woodshop.

What is a woodshop?

A woodshop is a space for tools to process wood and soft materials. People bring in materials like plywood, solid lumber, plastics, and foam, and then they use hand and power tools to cut, assemble, and shape the tools.

Products you can make are anything from turned pens or small coasters, to boxes, to furniture and architecture:

  • Blades are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
  • Abrasives are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
  • Fasteners are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks, pin nails, staples.
  • Aligners are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
  • Adhesives are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.
  • Finishes protect the surface and change the appearance for design or durability purposes. Common finishes: stains, paint, urethanes, hard waxes.

Safety considerations

Hazards from cutting

Moving blades and rotating bits are connected to very powerful machinery, and almost all of these machines do not have a way to detect that something has gone wrong and shut themselves off. (The one exception is the SawStop.) So as an operator you must be very careful:

  • No loose clothing near the blade/bit. No gloves. Most of us wear short sleeve shirts and no jewelry from the elbows down. If a loose thread or a corner of your clothing gets caught then you may be pulled into the machine. Nobody likes splinters or sharp wood edges, but being mindful of rough edges reduces the chance of being poked or cut.
    • You can use gloves to move materials and tools, just take them off before turning on a machine.
    • The SawStop does have a brake that will drop the table saw blade if your skin makes contact with the blade. This has saved countless people from deep cuts or worse. However, do not rely on the brake. Even if the blade drops, you will still likely get a cut or materials can get snagged and still harm you.
  • Always wear eye protection. The blades and bits throw chips faster than you can react, and they are small and sharp. Choose glasses that wrap around the side of your eyes. Many of us have oversized ones that fit over reading glasses.

Hazards from dust

  • Consider wearing a mask or respirator. Sawdust stays airborne for a long time and it is an irritant. Prolonged exposure to sawdust can create serious health concerns. An N95 or N100 mask is great to keep the particles out. Many of us use masks with replaceable filters because they are more comfortable to wear and have a better seal.
  • Use dust collection. Whenever possible, use the dust collectors attached to the machines or a ShopVac. A downdraft table also helps to capture particles. After you are done with a machine or sanding on a table, use broom to push dust into pans and place in garbage cans.

Hazards from fumes

  • Do not cut materials that could give off fumes. When in doubt, ask a MOD and try to ventilate the shop. Some materials with paints or plastics can heat up and release hazardous gasses, so be mindful of what you cut. That said, everything gives off some amount of fumes such as cutting MDF, using glue, or applying finishes.

Materials

Wood

Of course, wood! Check out the Wood Database for tons of information about different woods. Identification, strength, finishes, etc.

Glues

Are end grain glue joints weak? No! See the short, very interesting test video.

Some local knowledge from our members.

Finishes

  • Odie's Oil
    • Wipe on, dry, wipe off. 2 coats usually good. Generally easy to apply.
    • For larger endgrain slabs, recommendation is to use thin coat and allow 1-2 days per coat to dry completely.
    • Cookie slabs can retain a lot of moisture and that will interfere with the hardening process.
  • Tung oil finishes

Supplies

Also see the general Supply Sources page.

Tools

Bench Vise

Wood Lathe

Wood Chisels

  • Sharpening: The grind on DeWalt chisels is very rough out of the box. The edge isn't durable because it is very jagged. To get a good edge on them you need to carefully flatten the surface of the bevel of the chisel with a rough sharpening stone before moving on to finer grits. Sandpaper is not the right tool for the job.

Tips

Basic Tips

Wood Inlay

Edge Treatment

Sanding

Table Saw

Router

Drilling

Turning

Misc

Safety