makernexuswiki - User contributions [en]

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2024-05-13T18:11:39Z

Tool: Added hours to all the wood sources, standardized formatting.

A list of sources and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.
== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded. Cast has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect. Extruded works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet. Cast has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering. Extruded comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

===Port Plastics===
South SF bay area

===Profession Plastics===
South SF bay area

===Calsak Plastics===
San Francisco and Hayward [https://www.calsakplastics.com/ Calsak Plastics]

=== Tap Plastics ===
[https://www.tapplastics.com/ Tap Plastics web site]
A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded. Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic
products that are not laser safe. Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.

=== Delvie's Plastics ===
[http://www.delviesplastics.com/ http://www.delviesplastics.com/] Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips. Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials.

=== U.S. Plastic ===
[http://www.usplastic.com http://www.usplastic.com] 800-537-9724 Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
*Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
*PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping

== Wood ==

===Moore Newton===
San Leandro. [https://moorenewton.com/ https://moorenewton.com/] 
Monday-Friday: 8am to 4:30pm 
Saturday-Sunday: Closed

===Aura Hardwoods===
San Jose and other locations [http://www.aurahardwoods.com/home http://www.aurahardwoods.com/] 
Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods. If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.

They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN. Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused. 
Monday-Friday: 8am to 4pm 
Saturday-Sunday: Closed

===Woodcraft===
San Carlos [https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/san-carlos https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/san-carlos] 
Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut. 
Monday-Friday: 9am to 6pm 
Saturday: 9am to 5pm 
Sunday: 11am to 4pm

=== Home Depot ===
Sunnyvale and other locations [https://www.homedepot.com https://www.homedepot.com] 
Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side. 
Monday-Saturday: 6am to 10pm 
Sunday: 7am to 8pm

=== Mayan Hardwoods ===
Paso Robles. [http://www.mayanhardwood.com/ http://www.mayanhardwood.com/] 
Monday-Friday: 7:30am to 4:30pm 
Saturday: 8:30am to 12pm

=== Global Wood Source ===
Campbell. [https://www.globalwoodsource.com/ https://www.globalwoodsource.com] 
Monday-Friday: 9am to 4pm 
Saturday: 9am to 3pm 
Sunday: Closed

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi] These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==
[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply] - Formerly Campbell Metal. Near SJC. Full-range metal supplier. Campbell metal also had a large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum), not clear if Industrial Metal still has this or not.

[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metals San Jose] - Scrap metal buyer and reseller.

Alan Steel Redwood City (no web site) - Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials. Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.

[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets] A franchise.

[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum] in Hayward.

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==
[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send] You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote. They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso] hinges are excellent.

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2024-05-11T00:10:22Z

Tool: Added Global Wood Source to wood sources

A list of sources and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.
== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded. Cast has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect. Extruded works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet. Cast has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering. Extruded comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

===Port Plastics===
South SF bay area

===Profession Plastics===
South SF bay area

===Calsak Plastics===
San Francisco and Hayward [https://www.calsakplastics.com/ Calsak Plastics]

=== Tap Plastics ===
[https://www.tapplastics.com/ Tap Plastics web site]
A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded. Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic
products that are not laser safe. Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.

=== Delvie's Plastics ===
[http://www.delviesplastics.com/ http://www.delviesplastics.com/] Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips. Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials.

=== U.S. Plastic ===
[http://www.usplastic.com http://www.usplastic.com] 800-537-9724 Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
*Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
*PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping

== Wood ==

===Moore Newton===
San Leandro. [http://moorenewton.com/ http://moorenewton.com/]

===Aura Hardwoods===
San Jose and other locations [http://www.aurahardwoods.com/home]
Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods. If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN. Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===Woodcraft===
San Carlos [https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/san-carlos] has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut.

=== Home Depot ===
Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.

=== Mayan Hardwoods ===
Paso Robles. [http://www.mayanhardwood.com/ http://www.mayanhardwood.com/]

=== Global Wood Source ===
Campbell. [https://www.globalwoodsource.com/ https://www.globalwoodsource.com] 
Monday-Friday: 9am-4pm 
Saturday: 9am-3pm 
Sunday: Closed

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi] These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==
[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply] - Formerly Campbell Metal. Near SJC. Full-range metal supplier. Campbell metal also had a large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum), not clear if Industrial Metal still has this or not.

[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metals San Jose] - Scrap metal buyer and reseller.

Alan Steel Redwood City (no web site) - Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials. Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.

[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets] A franchise.

[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum] in Hayward.

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==
[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send] You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote. They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso] hinges are excellent.

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

3D Printing and Modeling

2023-11-07T15:27:14Z

Tool: /* Recycling */

== Materials ==

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or1FP43zx3I Review of different filaments]

Prusa has a nice [https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials materials guide] with interesting information.

=== PLA ===

eSun PLA+ is recommended by several people.

=== Recycling ===
We are often asked about recycling scrap filament. The short story is that we don't. There are companies that recycle plastic but they have concerns about taking in 3D printed scraps:

# They don't know what additives are in the filament
# They worry that the consumer (or Maker Nexus) will mix types of plastic

This kind of contamination would hurt the purity of their end product, so they are unwilling to accept consumer scraps.

There are places that make filament from recycled prints, but they use scrap that they generate so they know its composition. Prusa has [https://blog.prusa3d.com/10-tips-for-saving-filament-money-and-environment_71415/ two interesting] [https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusa-recycling-world-map_83216/ blog posts] about this, and a [https://world.prusa3d.com world map] that shows recycling centers. None are currently in California.

There is a place that [https://recyclingfabrik.com/versandlabel/ accepts used filament]

== Find a Model ==

=== User Contributed Models ===
* [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse] has a wide variety of .STL files to download and use. A great source of ideas.

* [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] is hosted by Prusa.

* [http://thangs.com Thangs] has a lot of models. You can keep yours private. It has some collaboration tools and an interesting version control system for your models.

* [https://grabcad.com/library GrabCAD] is another interesting group of more professional looking models. Includes models of common parts that you can include in your designs. For example, all the Arduino boards are available.

=== Museums and Government Models ===

* [https://www.myminifactory.com/users/nationalmuseumswe National Museum of Sweden] has scanned their collection of sculpture.

* [https://3d.si.edu/browser The Smithsonian Museum] has many interesting models. Natural history and man-made - anyone want to 3D print a copy of the Apollo Command Module escape hatch?

* [https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/models NASA] has files for their space craft and more.

* [http://jthatch.com/Terrain2STL/ Terrain To STL] will generate a surface mesh of anywhere in the world. There is simple [https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-3D-Print-Topographic-Maps-and-Terrains/ Instructable on how to use it].

* [https://cadmapper.com/ CADMAPPER] will give you terrain AND the buildings that are on it.

=== Other Interesting Sites ===

* [https://deckinabox.sgenoud.com/token-tray-fdm Board Game] accessory holders, easy tool to design your own.

=== Models for Purchase ===
* [https://www.cgtrader.com/ CGTrader] Lots of models for purchase, including a number of celebrity heads.

TIP: If you have a virtual reality headset, you can import your model to AltspaceVR and interact with it in VR! [[Virtual_Reality#Your_model_in_VR | We have some instructions on how to do this]].

== Get Your Model Printed ==

=== Own Your Own 3d Printer ===

Having your own printer gives you unlimited time. But you also must be willing to care for the machine. At Maker Nexus we use the Prusa MK3s printers. During our [http://covidshieldnexus.org COVID response] they ran continuously for months without a problem. [[3D_Printers|Or join Maker Nexus and use our printers!]]

=== Your local Makerspace ===
You're on this wiki, why not join your [[Maker Spaces|local community makerspace]]?

=== The UPS Store ===
Some UPS Stores are now offering 3D printing. I used the UPS Store in Menlo Park. I exchanged email with them, sent them an STL, got a price, and picked up my part the next day. The part was extrusion printed, but in a very good quality. Their price was a bit more than Shapeways for the same part.

=== Shapeways - excellent, moderate price, two weeks ===
[http://www.shapeways.com http://www.shapeways.com] I have printed lots of stuff with Shapeways. Their print quality is very high. They offer a number of different materials. Their web site is easy to use and powerful. The only downside is that it takes 2-3 weeks to get your stuff. They also allow you to have your own store. They let other people buy your parts and you decide how much of a markup you want to add.

== Modeling Software ==

=== Parametric Modeling ===
Parametric modeling allows you to specify constraints on your designs. One constraint is the length (dimensions) of your design and that makes it easy to adjust the dimensions later. You can also specify angles, tangents, co-linearity, and much more. Some solutions actually require that you dimension everything. One issue for the newby is that when you have only a few constraints and change one the software might "solve" your geometry in a way that you did not anticipate - you use the Undo button a lot until you get used to it. Once you understand constraint use it is very powerful.

* [https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists Fusion 360 parametric modeling] for hobbyist and very small businesses. This is a very powerful professional, yet easy to learn, modeling tool. All your designs can be dimensioned which makes it easy to go back and say, "I want this wall to be 23mm instead of 22" and see the whole model regenerate. You can export an .STL file for import into a Slicer. We have a page of [[Fusion 360|Fusion 360 tips]].

* [https://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD] is an open source alternative to Fusion360. It is very powerful but a bit quirkier than Fusion360. If you enjoy open source software, this will do a very good job for you.

* [https://cad.onshape.com/signin OnShape] is a browser based solution. It works a lot like Fusion 360. The free version makes your models open-source. That might be a problem if you're doing a work thing, but if you're just a hobbyist then why not share your designs with the world?

* [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a text based parametric modeling solution. They offer a GUI to help you make a well formed modeling file, but the basic file is all text based. You specify objects and locations in space, and boolean operations on them, and more. It's like the MarkUp language of 3D modeling. Some people swear by it because they can know exactly what's going on - no fancy GUI to hide operations from you. You can make extremely sophisticated models with this.

* [https://github.com/SolidCode/SolidPython Solid Python] is a Python library that generates valid OpenSCAD files. If you want to write your own program to generate models in OpenSCAD, try this.

=== Organic Modeling ===
This is when you are making some lifelike part. A little figure, a model of a hand, a free form art work. These don't have constraints, you just grab parts of the mesh and pull it into a new position.

* MeshMixer for creating and editing STL files is now part of the Autodesk suite and is included in Fusion360.

* Blender - Used by artists and modelers the world over. A very, very powerful open source application. I tried to use it but felt like a guy who's driven an old car now sitting in a jet fighter trying to fly the thing. Wow. I've seen spectacular things come out of Blender, but not from my hand.

=== Simple Modeling ===

These solutions are the easiest to use and are a good place to start if you just want to make something quickly.

* [https://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp] offers a free version that is very popular with hobbyists. The easy user interface allows one to quickly construct objects. They can be constrained, but that is a bit more work.

* [https://www.tinkercad.com/ TinkerCAD] is so easy that kids can use it right away.

== 3D Scanning ==

If you want to duplicate some thing, there are several ways to create an STL file of that thing.

* High Quality Laser Scanners - Can cost a couple of thousand dollars, but do a great job at capturing fine detail. I've used the Next Engine 3D Scanner to duplicate an old drawer pull with many features.

* Low Cost Laser Scanners - Can cost a couple of hundred dollars and can do a good job on items that have moderate detail. Some of them are do-it-yourself kits. I'm told they can be finicky to get aligned. Search the internet for "3D scanner".

* True Depth Camera - If your smart phone has a camera that reports depth, apps are available to create a model. I've used [http://standardcyborg.com Create 3D by Standard Cyborg] (free) on my iPhone 12 to get superb results. The iPhone 12 only has true depth on the front facing camera, which is awkward for capturing a object other than your face. However, I took several scans and stitched them together with [https://www.meshlab.net/ MeshLab] (free) and the result was exceptional.

* Photogrammetry - This software constructs a 3D model from a bunch of photos. If you want a model of a teapot, you circle the object taking a hundred overlapping photos. You can use this software to construct a much bigger item like a whole house, a room, or even an archaeological site. The more high quality photos, the better the detail. Two I've used are [http://regard3d.org Regard 3D ](free) and [https://www.agisoft.com/ Agisoft Metashape] (free demo mode).

=== Cellphone True Depth Camera ===

* Capture 3D: Scan Anything
[http://standardcyborg.com Capture 3D] runs on smart phones with true depth cameras. (The front facing camera on iPhones, for example.) Scanning your face is dead easy and you see the model right on your phone. As you move the phone you need to keep the object mostly in view - makes sense. If you don't, the process stops and you get a model of what you've scanned so far. Since this is just the front facing camera it is a bit tricky to get an object all in one scan.

To use the model requires some post processing. You go to Standard Cyborg's web site and download the models you have created as "point clouds." Then use software like the free MeshLab to stitch your point clouds together and create an STL file. Once you know how to use MeshLab the whole process is very easy.

=== Photogrammetry ===

I've tried two software apps on my Mac and both did the job. I walked around a person in a chair and took about 140 overlapping photos. After an hour of processing I got a model of the person and also much of the room behind them. The resolution of the model's face was far below that of the true depth camera work, so I did not follow up on these packages.

* [http://regard3d.org Regard 3D ](free) is an open source solution with a gajillion options. I eventually read their documentation and followed what it recommended. It didn't work for my project until I selected L1 for both options on camera triangulation. Then I got nice results. It is a few years old and the database did not have my iPhone model in it. At first I blamed my guessing at the missing "sensor size" parameter for my bad results, but in the end my guess of 5mm seemed to work as well as the commercial software did on the same photo set.

* [https://www.agisoft.com/ Agisoft Metashape] (free demo mode) I'm not sure how long the demo mode lasts, but this did pretty much what Regard 3D did but without all the worries. I could click each step in the processing pipeline and the software just did it. In the end the result was not that different from Regard 3D, but I did not closely compare the output.

== Point Cloud and Mesh Software ==

Sometimes your scanning software will only give you a point cloud and not a mesh. Or you'll want to manipulate the mesh a bit to remove artifacts. In my case I had three point clouds from a scan of a head. I needed to align them, create the mesh, and export it.

* [http://meshlab.net MeshLab download] This is some fabulous open source software. I tried fooling around with it and got frustrated until I found a fabulous step-by-step tutorial that told me exactly what was needed. I could now do the process again in just a few minutes. The tutorial is [http://www.heritagedoc.pt/doc/Meshlab_Tutorial_iitd.pdf on the web]. We also have a copy in the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1vhhkMohQiRlBn_dQExRohMpAh29jXi2e MN Members Drive]

I found a mesh was difficult to deal with in Fusion360. Fusion360 has a mesh to BREP feature, but that left me with a ton of triangles and I still had trouble manipulating it. Their community recommended a paid feature to convert a mesh to quads, but then another recommended a free tool:

* [https://github.com/wjakob/instant-meshes Instant Meshes] converts an .OBJ file to a quad mesh.

Fusion360 can be difficult to understand when using a mesh or a surface or a tspline object. Here are some things to remember:

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHtu3CDcZkU convert a mesh to a BREP]

Meshmixer can be used to [https://help.autodesk.com/view/MSHMXR/2019/ENU/?guid=GUID-749E6C72-D82B-4FA9-A157-1AE612B779AE make a surface stl file into a water tight model]

== Printer Control Software ==

=== Slicers ===

Slicers take your .STL model and do the work to generate GCode that can be sent to a 3D printer.

* [https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/ Prusa Slicer] is a great tool for your needs. It provides a lot of control over the slicing, grouped into simple, advanced, expert. There are a large number of settings - visit our [[Prusa Slicer | Prusa Slicer Tips]] page.

* [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] is the software that Prusa built their slicer on top of. Open source, you may find that leading edge features are here before they appear in the Prusa Slicer.

=== Remote Control and Monitoring ===

* [https://octoprint.org/ Octoprint] Runs on a Raspberry Pi and, depending on your printer, will let you monitor and remotely control the print. With a camera attached to the RPi you can watch your print from anywhere and intervene if there's a problem.

== Maintenance and Troubleshooting ==

=== Troubleshooting software ===

* [https://www.pronterface.com/ Pronterface] runs on your laptop and sends commands to your 3D printer from a graphical user interface. It can be very helpful in diagnosing issues with your printer.

=== Calibrate the Extruder ===
[https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/ An interesting article] on calibrating the extruder on a 3D printer. The basic steps are to ask the printer to extrude a specific amount of filament, measure the actual amount of filament used, then adjust the extruder constant (steps per mm of filament used) to reflect the actual value. Then remeasure. On one printer, I found the default was extruding 102.5mm when it was supposed to be extruding 100. I think this was making rough top layers on my prints. It can also affect what you think is the correct height adjustment for the first layer if you rely on a printed patch that you feel for smoothness. The linked article walks through the process, including a couple of g-codes you need to be able to send to do run the test and set the adjustment.

== Techniques ==

=== Other sites ===

[https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/best-printing-practices-makerbot-replicator-2-and-2x Best Practices at 3D Hub].

[https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-print-maps-terrains-and-landscapes-on-a-3d-printer/ How to get and print a 3D landscape of anywhere]

[https://all3dp.com/2/annealing-pla-prints-for-strength-easy-ways/ Annealing your printed PLA model] can dramatically increase its strength.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kbjZobJtbM 3D print your own filament] to give you new colors or variegation. Then print with your own custom filament.

[http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf Design of snap joints in plastic.] A great reference.

=== Ceilings in your model ===

The MakerBot software defaults do NOT do a good job at putting roofs over some parts. To correct this you need to modify your device settings. Look for the "create a profile" button. First select the correct device, material, etc. Now click Create A Profile. Give it a name. It will now open in Notepad. Look for the setting of "roofThickness". Set it to 3.

You could try changing "roofLayerCount_disabled" to "roofLayerCount_enabled". I have not tried that.

=== Design Tips ===

[https://m.all3dp.com/2/engineering-tolerance-definition-drawing/ Designing for tolerance in your printing process] A good discussion of part tolerances with FDM printing and how to include these tolerances in your design.

[https://hackaday.com/2022/05/01/bend-your-prints-to-eliminate-supports/ Avoid supports] by designing your model to be folded.

=== Surface Finishing ===

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4e9JJkinvk Card scrapers] can make your surfaces smooth faster than sanding.

[https://youtu.be/KVf0mbBCygQ?si=N7xPGp12x__m-td- UV Resin and cornstarch] for a mirror smooth finish