makernexuswiki - User contributions [en]

MN Metal Shop

2026-06-15T21:14:28Z

Amylee: /* Saws */

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Dirty shop]]

== Lathes ==
* [[Clausing-Colchester 6527 13" x 36" Gap Bed Lathe]]
* [[LeBlond Regal 13" x 42" Lathe]] with DRO

== Milling Machines ==
* 2 Bridgeport J-Head Mills
* Bridgeport J-Head Variable Speed Mill
* [[Kearney & Trecker 2H 10" x 50" Horizontal Milling Machine]] (not currently on line)

== CNC Tools ==
* Birmingham CNC Conversion Mill (not currently on line)
* [[XTools Metalfab]] CNC fiber laser

== Tips ==
* Select the correct [https://youtu.be/v6QCrV4ZOiU?si=ejLF_gUG2oh-APA0 cutting oil] for your job

* Select the correct [https://youtu.be/v6QCrV4ZOiU?si=ejLF_gUG2oh-APA0 cutting oil] for your job. cutting fluid and lubricant are different in action. Cutting fluid improves the cut quality, while lubricant just cools the part and does not change cut quality.
* Know your material, all metals behave differently and the tools and ways you use the tools will very widely depending on what you are doing. Be sure to be aware of what material you are using as some tools will only work with specific materials.
* Know your consumables; the consumables like drill bits and end mills are material-specific and will break or damage the tool if used with the wrong material.
* Cutting speeds are critical with all machining tools; the feeds and speeds of a tool dictate the cut quality and will greatly affect your outcome when making something. Be sure to know what the correct speed is for your project.
* Make a mockup first for all sheet metal work. Your biggest limitation will be the tolerances with tooling. To be sure that the tool will behave the way you expect, making a paper or cardboard mockup will help you work out folding order, and if it is even possible to make the shape you are planning.
* Ask the community. If you are having trouble or don't know something, feel free to ask a member or staff member. Often, they will be able to help you, and this will speed up the process and get you back to making!

== Welding ==
[[Welding tips|tips and tricks]]
* MIG Welding
** Millermatic 220 (mild steel only)
** Miller 230 MIG welder aluminum spool gun (not online)

* TIG Welding
** Lincoln Electric TIG Welder (not currently on line)
** Millermatic 220
** MillerDinisty 300 TIGrunner

* Arc Welding
** Millermatic 220

== Plasma Cutting ==
A GoFab CNC plasma cutting table with a 48" X 96" bed. It can pierce up to 1" but it cuts 5/8" well, however it also depends on the material. For example, Aluminum would not go past 3/8" max.

A plasma cutter has the largest allowance of any metal cutting CNC with a kerf of 1/16" so it is not the best for extreme precision but good for most projects.

Why is the max thickness of aluminum less than that of steel? Aluminum when it oxidizes puffs up which causes the cut edge to be less clean than that of mild steel, the thinker it is, the more pronounced this effect is, so it cuts increasingly poorly. It's not that it won't cut, just that you lose quality as the material's thickness increases more so than other materials. You'll see this kind of cut variation with many metals and you will want to adjust your settings to account for that. GoFab has some settings for different materials to account for this so you don't need to spend time troubleshooting material types.

== Drill Press ==
* Delta Drill Press

== Saws ==

* Horizontal band saw
** Cut any kind of material
** Built in work holding
** 🛑 '''No oil.''' Do not use lubrication when cutting parts. It will gum the machine up.
* Vertical band saw, steel only
* Vertical band saw, steel only
* [[Makita LC1230 12" Metal Cutting Saw]]
* 12” cold cut mitering saw, steel only
** Built in work holding
* 12” cold cut mitering saw, aluminum only
** Built in work holding

== Grinders ==
* [[K. O. Lee S718 6" x 19" Surface Grinder]]
* Pedestal Grinder
* 72” edge grinder
* disk sanders
* angle grinder

== Media blaster ==

1536 SKAT BLAST® Cabinet:
* Powerful 180-DC HEPA Dust Collector to remove dust within cabinet as you blast
* lens, 12″ x 45″ x 3/16″ with peel-off inner lens protector
* Molded glove and lens trim – prevents leaks
* 32″L Super-Pro Cabinet Gloves (provide 10x the life of standard cabinet gloves)
* Automatic abrasive recycling system
* Expanded metal screen holds objects up to 300 lbs

== Buffing Arbor ==

== Sheet Metal Tools ==
All of our sheet metal tools have a capacity of - Mild steel: 16ga; Aluminum: 14ga; Stainless Steel: 24ga.

* Finger Brake
** 48" finger brake with adjustable fingers
** capacity of 16ga. mild steel and a capacity for 24ga. stainless steel.
** a maximum angle of 140
** the throat has a 3" vertical through and a minimum finger width of 2"
* Stomp Shear
** 48" sheet metal
** an imperial measured siding stop
** 16ga. mild steel capacity and a 24ga. capacity stainless steel.
* [[Roper Whitney No. 58 5-Ton Punch Press]]
* Floor Mounted Slip Roller
** 48" wide slip roller
** 1" minimum radius
** 16ga. mild steel capacity, and a 24ga. capacity for stainless steel
* Tabletop Slip Roller
** 12" wide
** a 3/4" minimum radius

== Misc Tools ==

*[[Sand Casting]]

== Handheld Power Tools ==

== Hand Tools ==

Back to [[Maker_Nexus_Equipment]]

MN Metal Shop

2026-06-15T21:13:31Z

Amylee: /* Saws */

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Dirty shop]]

== Lathes ==
* [[Clausing-Colchester 6527 13" x 36" Gap Bed Lathe]]
* [[LeBlond Regal 13" x 42" Lathe]] with DRO

== Milling Machines ==
* 2 Bridgeport J-Head Mills
* Bridgeport J-Head Variable Speed Mill
* [[Kearney & Trecker 2H 10" x 50" Horizontal Milling Machine]] (not currently on line)

== CNC Tools ==
* Birmingham CNC Conversion Mill (not currently on line)
* [[XTools Metalfab]] CNC fiber laser

== Tips ==
* Select the correct [https://youtu.be/v6QCrV4ZOiU?si=ejLF_gUG2oh-APA0 cutting oil] for your job

* Select the correct [https://youtu.be/v6QCrV4ZOiU?si=ejLF_gUG2oh-APA0 cutting oil] for your job. cutting fluid and lubricant are different in action. Cutting fluid improves the cut quality, while lubricant just cools the part and does not change cut quality.
* Know your material, all metals behave differently and the tools and ways you use the tools will very widely depending on what you are doing. Be sure to be aware of what material you are using as some tools will only work with specific materials.
* Know your consumables; the consumables like drill bits and end mills are material-specific and will break or damage the tool if used with the wrong material.
* Cutting speeds are critical with all machining tools; the feeds and speeds of a tool dictate the cut quality and will greatly affect your outcome when making something. Be sure to know what the correct speed is for your project.
* Make a mockup first for all sheet metal work. Your biggest limitation will be the tolerances with tooling. To be sure that the tool will behave the way you expect, making a paper or cardboard mockup will help you work out folding order, and if it is even possible to make the shape you are planning.
* Ask the community. If you are having trouble or don't know something, feel free to ask a member or staff member. Often, they will be able to help you, and this will speed up the process and get you back to making!

== Welding ==
[[Welding tips|tips and tricks]]
* MIG Welding
** Millermatic 220 (mild steel only)
** Miller 230 MIG welder aluminum spool gun (not online)

* TIG Welding
** Lincoln Electric TIG Welder (not currently on line)
** Millermatic 220
** MillerDinisty 300 TIGrunner

* Arc Welding
** Millermatic 220

== Plasma Cutting ==
A GoFab CNC plasma cutting table with a 48" X 96" bed. It can pierce up to 1" but it cuts 5/8" well, however it also depends on the material. For example, Aluminum would not go past 3/8" max.

A plasma cutter has the largest allowance of any metal cutting CNC with a kerf of 1/16" so it is not the best for extreme precision but good for most projects.

Why is the max thickness of aluminum less than that of steel? Aluminum when it oxidizes puffs up which causes the cut edge to be less clean than that of mild steel, the thinker it is, the more pronounced this effect is, so it cuts increasingly poorly. It's not that it won't cut, just that you lose quality as the material's thickness increases more so than other materials. You'll see this kind of cut variation with many metals and you will want to adjust your settings to account for that. GoFab has some settings for different materials to account for this so you don't need to spend time troubleshooting material types.

== Drill Press ==
* Delta Drill Press

== Saws ==

* Horizontal band saw
* Cut any kind of material
* Built in work holding
* 🛑 __No oil.__ Do not use lubrication when cutting parts. It will gum the machine up.
* Vertical band saw, steel only
* Vertical band saw, steel only
* [[Makita LC1230 12" Metal Cutting Saw]]
* 12” cold cut mitering saw, steel only
* Built in work holding
* 12” cold cut mitering saw, aluminum only
* Built in work holding

== Grinders ==
* [[K. O. Lee S718 6" x 19" Surface Grinder]]
* Pedestal Grinder
* 72” edge grinder
* disk sanders
* angle grinder

== Media blaster ==

1536 SKAT BLAST® Cabinet:
* Powerful 180-DC HEPA Dust Collector to remove dust within cabinet as you blast
* lens, 12″ x 45″ x 3/16″ with peel-off inner lens protector
* Molded glove and lens trim – prevents leaks
* 32″L Super-Pro Cabinet Gloves (provide 10x the life of standard cabinet gloves)
* Automatic abrasive recycling system
* Expanded metal screen holds objects up to 300 lbs

== Buffing Arbor ==

== Sheet Metal Tools ==
All of our sheet metal tools have a capacity of - Mild steel: 16ga; Aluminum: 14ga; Stainless Steel: 24ga.

* Finger Brake
** 48" finger brake with adjustable fingers
** capacity of 16ga. mild steel and a capacity for 24ga. stainless steel.
** a maximum angle of 140
** the throat has a 3" vertical through and a minimum finger width of 2"
* Stomp Shear
** 48" sheet metal
** an imperial measured siding stop
** 16ga. mild steel capacity and a 24ga. capacity stainless steel.
* [[Roper Whitney No. 58 5-Ton Punch Press]]
* Floor Mounted Slip Roller
** 48" wide slip roller
** 1" minimum radius
** 16ga. mild steel capacity, and a 24ga. capacity for stainless steel
* Tabletop Slip Roller
** 12" wide
** a 3/4" minimum radius

== Misc Tools ==

*[[Sand Casting]]

== Handheld Power Tools ==

== Hand Tools ==

Back to [[Maker_Nexus_Equipment]]

Woodshops

2026-04-29T00:24:09Z

Amylee: /* Hazards from cutting */

{{About|general woodworking tools and tips|the woodshop at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA|[[MN Woodshop]]}}

= What is a woodshop? =

A woodshop is a space for tools to process wood and soft materials. People bring in materials like plywood, solid lumber, plastics, and foam, and then they use hand and power tools to cut, assemble, and shape the tools.

Products you can make are anything from turned pens or small coasters, to boxes, to furniture and architecture:
* '''Blades''' are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
* '''Abrasives''' are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
* '''Fasteners''' are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks, pin nails, staples.
* '''Aligners''' are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
* '''Adhesives''' are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.
* '''Finishes''' protect the surface and change the appearance for design or durability purposes. Common finishes: stains, paint, urethanes, hard waxes.

But what about lasers? See: [[Laser Cutters]], [[MN Laser Cutters]]

= Safety considerations =

There are more [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/MN_Safety safety considerations] than what's listed here. But these are some things we have learned:

== In general ==

* '''Safety should be the most important priority.''' You cannot rush safety; woodworking just takes time. Always look at the machines and the work area. Don't distract people when they are actively cutting. Don't run or walk fast through the shop. Watch your back when turning around while holding materials. If something doesn't feel right, stop. If you need help, ask someone or a staff member.
* '''Do not walk away from an active cut.''' If a machine is running, stay with it. If you are done, turn it off, wait for it to stop moving, and then you can look away or walk away. If you need to adjust something while the machine is running, consider turning it off. Also, do not distract someone from an active cut unless you absolutely need to grab their attention.
* '''Move slowly and purposefully.''' The floor can be slippery with dust, people may not see/hear you if you walk behind them, and if you are carrying long items you could turn around and hit someone. You may not see someone coming through a door or around a blind corner.
* '''Work within your strength capability.''' Wood materials, composites, and even the tools can very heavy. You can strain or injure yourself by hauling, lifting, or turning things outside of your strength range. Use carts to move heavy things. Use stands to support wobbly ends. Clamps are your friends. Ask for help if you need to, or find another safe way of accomplishing the task.
* '''Don't rush or work when tired.''' You may miss safety checks. Accidents happen when you try to do "just one more cut"—come back tomorrow refreshed.
** Stay hydrated
** Stay focused
** Plan your restroom breaks

== Hazards from cutting ==

Moving blades and rotating bits are connected to very powerful machinery, and almost all of these machines do not have a way to detect that something has gone wrong and shut themselves off. (The one exception is the [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop]].) So as an operator you must be very careful:

* '''No loose clothing near the blade/bit. ''No gloves!'' ''' Most of us wear short sleeve shirts and no jewelry from the elbows down. If a loose thread or a corner of your clothing gets caught then you may be pulled into the machine. Nobody likes splinters or sharp wood edges, but being mindful of rough edges reduces the chance of being poked or cut.
** You can use gloves to move materials and tools, just take them off before turning on a machine. (If a machine grabs a bit of a glove, it will rip it off your hand.)
***This is what emergency departments call a "de-gloving event." It is horrible, so do '''not''' wear gloves when using a machine.
***This is also why you shouldn't wear rings or jewelry, even from around a chain on your neck. (Put them back on after you are done working.)
** The '''SawStop''' does have a brake that will drop the table saw blade if your skin makes contact with the blade. This has saved countless people from deep cuts or worse. However, [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw#Not_completely_safe|''do not rely on the brake'']]. Even if the blade drops, you will still likely get a cut or materials can get snagged and still harm you. (Note: members must pay for replacement SawStop cartridges.)
* '''Keep long hair tied back.''' Anything longer than shoulder length can be problematic. It's the same problem of clothes being caught in a machine. Don't turn around too fast near an active machine. Many of us use larger dust masks which help keep long hair in place.
* '''No necklaces.''' Even when tucked into you shirt.
* '''Always wear eye protection.''' The blades and bits throw chips faster than you can react, and they are small and sharp. Choose glasses that wrap around the side of your eyes. Many of us have oversized ones that fit over reading glasses.
* '''Only one person on a machine.''' One person is usually better than two. Woodworking involves subtle movements to move materials around and machines are very loud.
* '''Avoid wearing rings or bracelets.''' If you injure your fingers or hand, swelling may occur, making it impossible to remove the ring—which can lead to more swelling.

== Hazards from saw blades ==

Most of the advice here boils down to:

* Don't touch the blade
* Avoid kickback

Always keep hands and clothing at least 6" from the blade. Table saws and miter saws have colored areas to remind you where you should not put your hands, but it is still up to you to be vigilant.

=== Avoid touching the blade ===

* '''Use a push shoe:''' You hold these to control your work through the blade and keep your hands at a distance. There are thin devices around the shop with a handle, a flat bottom, and a small "heel" to help catch your work. Place on top of the work to apply pressure down and towards the fence.
** People generally do not recommend "chicken foot" push sticks. See next section.
* '''Use a push stick:''' For band saws only, if you need to push a thin piece through the blade, use a small stick. Be aware the stick can catch on the moving blade.
* '''Don't reach across a blade:''' Use the push shoe or a MicroJig. Even if you think you have control, a little kickback or wobble on the work can make you topple into the blade. Even if the SawStop brake engages, your work can still be thrown around.
* '''Use a MicroJig:''' These pushblocks have standoffs to keep them above the blade and a gripping edge on the bottom. They let you hold thin pieces of wood down as you control it over the blade, which keeping your hands inches away. Use the stabilizing foot on the free side of the jig to keep the jig parallel to the table.

=== Avoid kickback ===

We like [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4 this video] to explain how kickback occurs.

* '''Do not use a chicken foot push stick:''' The hazard of kickback occurs because the far side of the work gets picked up by the rapidly spinning blade and thrown up at you. A chicken foot only applies control to the front edge which can let the back edge pivot upwards. Consider using the push shoe instead.
* '''Use a feather board:''' Place the featherboard with the fingers pointing away from you to allow 1-way movement of the wood through the blade. Place before and after the blade if you like to keep the work parallel to the rip fence.
* '''Use a high fence:''' If cutting something tall (such as a rabbets or laps), use a high fence to stabilize the work. That way the bottom edge won't tip at an angle to the blade. For making tenon long sides, this is what you do. ''Be careful to control the work so it doesn't rock forward/backward through the blade.
* '''Use a crosscut sled:''' If cutting something wider than it is long, the crosscut sled will ensure the work passes perpendicular to the blade without twisting.
** '''Clamp tall pieces to the sled:''' For making tenon short sides, this is what you do.
* '''Keep the table surface free of dust and debris:''' With the table saw or band saw stopped, brush/vacuum away large debris. This keeps your surface level and prevents your work catching on a big chunk, which could then tip the work into the blade unexpectedly.

=== Other things ===

* '''Don't leave a blade on the table saw table.''' It'll scratch it and/or damage the blade. The teeth on a saw blade are often 3D so they stick out and are also sharp, so putting the blade down on the table saw can leave small marks. If you're changing a table saw blade, put it in the drawer with the other blades or find a piece of wood to let it rest.

== Hazards from dust ==

Even when you are not actively working, there is almost always a lot of dust floating in the air in the woodshop.

* '''Consider wearing a mask or respirator.''' Sawdust stays airborne for a long time and it is an irritant. Prolonged exposure to sawdust can create serious health concerns. An N95 or N100 mask is great to keep the particles out. Many of us use masks with replaceable filters because they are more comfortable to wear and have a better seal.
* '''Use dust collection.''' Whenever possible, use the dust collectors attached to the machines or a ShopVac. A downdraft table also helps to capture particles. After you are done with a machine or sanding on a table, use broom to push dust into pans and place in garbage cans.
* '''Clean around the machines.''' Dust is also slippery. The floors should be relatively dust-free to prevent slipping when walking or turning.

== Hazards from sanding belts and wheels ==

The belts and wheels move past a fixed metal platform that supports the work.

* '''Hold onto your work:''' Always maintain control of the work near the moving sander, otherwise it can be trapped or thrown.
* '''Watch out for loose clothing, hair, or aprons:''' They can get caught between the moving sander and the platform, or get pulled into the wheels. Consider removing anything dangling, secure your hair. Do not turn around quickly.
* '''Don't let your hands get pinched:''' always keep your hands away from the moving sander. If you have a thin piece of work, hold the work with one hand and use a push stick to apply light pressure to the other side of the work that's close to the sander.

== Hazards from fumes ==

* '''Do not cut materials that could give off fumes.''' When in doubt, ask a staff member and try to ventilate the shop. Some materials with paints or plastics can heat up and release hazardous gasses, so be mindful of what you cut. That said, everything gives off some amount of fumes such as cutting MDF, using glue, or applying finishes.

== Hazards from nails and screws ==

* '''Do not leave sharp fasteners on the floor or tables.''' It's easy to step on or grab a nail or end of a wood screw. Put the fasteners back in their bins or bags, or sweep them into garbage cans.

== Hazards from falling materials ==

* '''Use support arms or support stands.''' You only have two hands and when you cut materials the two halves often pivot away in opposite directions. In the case of a miter saw this means the cut ends of the materials can fall away and pinch the blade: this will throw the wood back at you. Extend support arms or use a stand.

== Hazards from kickback ==

* '''Wood pinching on a spinning blade can throw wood back at you or someone else.''' It happens faster than you can react. Always keep pressure and control on your material and watch for any opportunity to have the wood pinch the blade or turn oddly into the blade. Even if you push wood through the table saw cleanly, the wood may relax beyond the blade and curve inward. Always know how to stop the machine or keep control of the material.
* '''Use the Riving Knife.''' This is a key safety device to avoid kickback. You should never use the table saw without the riving knife in place.
* '''Don't stand in the path of small thin material.''' When cutting on the table saw you may be ripping a small strip off one side. Stay to the left of the saw blade and allow a small gap so that if kickback happens then the small piece will shoot past your hip.
* '''Use a miter gauge or crosscut sled for material that is wider than it is long.''' A miter gauge or sled rides in a track that prevents the material from turning left/right. Holding your material to the miter gauge or sled lets you safely push it through a table saw blade.
* '''Clamp non-square material.''' Anything at an angle should be clamped to a sled or a miter gauge. This goes for round poles. And this is for the table saw, miter saw, and band saw. The blade will grab a round side and spin it harder than you can hold onto it.
* See also: [https://youtu.be/Xc-lIs8VNIc?t=1114 Table saw accidents]

== Hazards from clogged or insufficient dust collection ==

Always use the dust collector or ShopVac to suck dust from the work surface and the machine. Dust can clog up the machine leading to damage. Always check that it feels like air is being sucked away, and replace bags if not.

* Sawdust on the floors can make them slippery
* Too much dust below the bandsaws can create a fire hazard and/or throw dust back up into the air
* Overfilled dust collection bags won't vacuum
* Overfilled dust collection bags can break
* If a ShopVac feels heavy, it's probably full
* If a ShopVac doesn't suck, then the bag might be full, the filter might be clogged, or the bag could be broken
* There are dust catch trays below the downdraft table
* Too much dust in the table saw can jam the elevation mechanism and lead to stripped gears
* Not vacuuming the thickness planer can result in uneven cuts
* Not turning on the jointer dust collector can result in damage to the machine
* Not using the dust shoe or a ShopVac on the CNC router can create a fire when drilling holes or small pockets
* Overfilled hand sander bags can lead to sawdust spilling back onto your work or sanded particles thrown back into the air

== Hazards from wet wood ==

In general, wet wood is hard to work with and it can cause problems on the machines. Wood from a lumber yard may be kiln-dried, which helps. But letting wood rest in your shop for a while helps to let it acclimate to your local humidity.

* '''Wet wood can warp.''' All wood has moisture and as you cut it a bend may form. Let it dry out before planing or cutting on the table saw.
* '''Wet wood can trigger the SawStop.''' And SawStop cartridges are about $100/each right now. Wet wood is electrically conductive, and if you hold the wood then you may trigger the brake.

== Hazards from wood irritants ==

Wood dust in general is problematic and you can [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitization_(immunology) become sensitized] to it, leading to rashes or breathing difficulties. Some woods can be more irritating; the [https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ Wood Allergies and Toxicity] database is a good resource. (Wood that has been finished is generally non-irritating since it's sealed.)

* Always test unknown woods and ask for advice [https://makernexus.slack.com/archives/CJP87T62X on #woodshop Slack].
* Use dust collection and/or ShopVac your work area often.
* Wear a mask or respirator when in the woodshop.
* If the wood smells bad when you're sanding or milling it, stop.

Some woods to be mindful of:

* [https://www.wood-database.com/cocobolo/ Cocobolo]: Deep contrasting grain and tight knots.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/lacewood/ Lacewood]: This is name for a number of species that have the same beautiful wave-like grain.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/purpleheart/ Purpleheart]: A unique rich purple/eggplant color.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/coast-redwood/ Redwood]: Some redwood may cause breathing issues.
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juglans#Wood Walnut]: That deep reddish brown grain, but for people with nut allergies you may be sensitive to this.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/wenge Wenge]: Dark with circular striping, and may cause abdominal cramps and central nervous system effects
* [https://www.wood-database.com/zebrawood/ Zebrawood]: High contrast undulating stripes, but also an irritant which can include stomach upset

== Hazards from miter gauges and sleds ==

* '''Double check the metal bits won't cross the path of a blade!''' If the blade touches a metal bit it could chip the blade and start the machine wobbling or throw the sharp metal somewhere bad. On the SawStop, this can trigger the blade brake!
** Without your wood on the miter gauge/sled, see if it'll clear the blades
** Check sleds for metal bits protruding into the path of a blade
** Make sure the gauge/sled's movable bits are tightened before pushing them near the blade
* '''Double check the height of the MicroJig.''' The Microjig should be on top of the wood as a push block and the table saw blade should pass right through the jig opening with enough clearance that it would get caught in the blade. Spend time to adjust the position of the feet so they'll grip your wood before ''and after'' the cut and also clear the blade. Use the support foot.
* '''Clamps should also be checked.''' It's common to use clamps to hold work to a sled or to hold a stop block. An unsecured metal clamp can fall into the path of a blade or can be pushed into it. With the machine off, do a test push to make sure your clamps are well out of the cut area.

Related:
* Watch out for unsecured fingerboards getting pulled into the path of a blade, or getting bumped by a MicroJig into the path of a blade

== Hazards from processed work still sitting on/near the cutting surface ==

After you make the cut, move the processed material to your "done pile". That way you're not trying to make the next cut and having extra materials that could fall back into the path of the blade or sander or other moving machine.

== Hazards from rounded wood, round sticks, and dowels ==

Rounded wood won't sit exactly parallel to the fence. Be ''very careful'' when attempting to cut these as they can easily get trapped between the blade and the fence leading to kickback, twisting, or pulling you too close to the blades.

Especially round sticks or dowels should be held in jigs or clamped. A moving blade or sanding surface can spin the material faster than you can hold it. Especially with a table saw: even if you cut a round circle flat, the blade action can turn it into a gear and spin it back at you or pull your hands into the path of the blade!

Even when turning wood on a lathe be sure it is clamped in or secured strong enough that the work piece won't get loose or fly away.

== Hazards from reclaimed wood or staples ==

Reclaimed wood may have nails, screws, or staples still in it. Even lumber from a warehouse store may have stapled tags on the ends. These metal bits can deflect a blade or cause breakage, which can lead to a safety concern.

* '''Carefully remove all metal from the wood.''' Inspect all angles of it, especially the ends or undersides.
* '''Be wary of reclaimed lumber.''' Know where it came from and watch out for bolts.
* '''Pallet wood may have nails.''' Pallets may have extra nails from their quick construction.

== Hazards from loud noise ==

Machines are loud, and wood being cut also tends to be loud. Wearing ear protection is highly recommended to prevent hearing damage. There are several methods people use:

* '''Standard foam earplugs.''' They are cheap and portable. They may become uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.
* '''Tethered soft earplugs.''' Usually with a cable, these have softer tips and are more comfortable for longer.
* '''Noise canceling headphones and earbuds.''' Many people like to use the noise canceling feature or listen to music. Be sure to keep the music volume low enough that you can hear other people trying to grab your attention or to hear the sound the machine is making.
* '''Shop-grade earmuffs.''' These provide excellent hearing protection and comfortable for long periods of time.

Wearing hearing protection also prevents sawdust from getting lodged in your ears!

== Hazards from dried glue ==

Using glue is absolutely fine, but ''too much glue'' can pose problems for the jointer, thickness planer, or your finish. The best strategy is to use only as much glue as you need to coat and stick your pieces together, clamp snuggly to create as much squeeze-out, then use a damp rag to remove excess glue.

* '''Wipe off excess glue.''' After you squeeze wood together, use a moistened (not sopping wet) rag to wipe off excess glue. (Wash out dirty rags and pails in the wet room, not the bathroom sink!)
* '''Scrape excess dried glue.''' Use a scraping tool to remove the big blobs
* '''Tape the clamps.''' Glue can get really stuck to the clamps, so add some blue tape to the clamps before the glue-up, especially when making large panels.
* '''Hard glue blobs can damage the planer or jointer.''' Glue is harder than you think, and it can dull the planer jointer's blades. Scrape excess glue before passing it through.
* '''Hard glue blobs can deflect the CNC router.''' Our [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|Shopbot]] has no feedback mechanism to know that it has wandered off its path. Hard glue blobs work like screws/nails and deflect the path of the router bit.
* '''Extra glue can create an uneven surface.''' And that means your cuts will no longer be straight.
* '''Extra glue can block finish from setting in.''' And that leads to uneven finish.

== Hazards from rushing ==

Woodworking is a slow process because many of the materials are very dense and there are many natural variations. Many of the goals of woodworking are to refine the raw materials into interesting shapes with smooth surfaces or sturdy joints. It just takes time to get a good result. Attempting to speed up the process or not using the best tool for the job risks marring your workpiece, breaking the tool, or injuring you.

* '''Give yourself at least 2X the amount of time.''' Time in the woodshop works differently. You may spend 30 minutes working on some material. But you have to account for the 20 minutes before that to set up your workspace and tools, and the 20 minutes afterwards to clean up.
** Especially with the CNC router, that thing can take a long time to set your work holddowns and zero the machine! Cleaning up is also longer because you have to sweep a much larger area than most tools.
* '''Always make time to clean.''' Especially in a shared shop like ours, removing dust, debris, and putting the tools back in their places protects everyone else's safety.
* '''Always check that safety mechanisms are working.''' Rushing through the safety checks means you can miss critical things like a wobby fence or an unsecured drill bit. Get into a routine and don't take shortcuts; have the shop checklists handy to confirm you've done all the steps.
* '''Make a plan; know what you can do out of order.''' Because of a limited number of machines in a shared woodshop, you may not be able to be on the machine you need. It's best to group the steps of your project together so that you can do a part of your project out of sequence. For instance, maybe the table saw is going to be busy for an hour or so, so spend time marking your drilling holes and cut lines.
* '''Walk in front of people, not behind.''' Walking in someone's sightline (and doing it slowly) is best since the noise of the shop often means you can't hear each other. Attempting to run around behind someone can surprise people actively cutting or you may come into an area where the other people might need to back up quickly. Also, most of the kickback from tools flies past people; you'd be walking into a kickback zone.
* '''Doublecheck your work pieces.''' How often have you started a cut and realized it's the wrong side or that it wasn't perfectly parallel to a fence? Set up your cut/drill/carve, check that the work is secure and it's on the correct side, and check your tools for damage.
* '''Wait until blades stop spinning.''' A moving blade still has a lot of energy. Grabbing that offcut too early can push it back into the blade or catch your sleeve up in a rotating bit.
** Especially with the SawStop: the brake mechanism is still sensing contact for a second after the blade has stopped. Either wait an extra second, or look down at the SawStop switch panel to make sure the safety lights have stopped blinking. (Brakes are expensive and replacing can take a couple hours!)

= Materials =

== Wood ==

Of course, wood! Check out the [https://www.wood-database.com/ Wood Database] for tons of information about different woods. Identification, strength, finishes, etc.

=== Solid wood ===

These are going to be your general lumber. Basically a tree that's cut into boards that you can reduce to the sizes you need.

Lumber yards are your best bet for quality and selection, but a local hardware store will stock some things you can use.

People love the feel of "real wood" and it has advantages like being shaped and sanded. You can think of it as a solid material---it's really more like a bundle of straws stuck together with natural glues. However, wood will expand sideways because the wood cells are great at holding moisture. (It was a tree, after all.)

An interesting video about [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEtLee4IliA rubber wood]. It is used all over the place.

=== Engineered lumber ===

These are mostly your plywoods and sheet materials. Most are trees that have been peeled into thin layers, then assembled into panels with glue. Plywood usually has grain placed at 90-degree angles on every other layer, which gives it strength and also means it doesn't change shape that much with weather. There are many types of plywood: cheaply-made big layers that have voids ("holes") and knots, better quality that have less voids or that use MDF cores, or higher end which have smooth void-free sheets and clean veneers.

There are boards made from long flat wood chips: oriented strand board (OSB). It's like plywood, but more glue and less strong. It's better as siding panels.

And there is medium density fiberboard (MDF). This is basically sawdust with glue. It's perfect for making templates or creating complex shapes. It is very heavy (because it's mostly glue) and weak when bending.

Bamboo panels are a little like MDF: bamboo is oriented with ends out and glue fills the gaps. It is very heavy, easy to shape like MDF, and looks nice on the sides and top.

=== Green Wood ===

The wood should be dried. For the lathes it ok if the wood is green but it can’t be sappy or wet. For the bandsaw the wood should be dry as any sap will gum up the blades and if it’s wet it can damage the cast iron.

For cutting logs on the bandsaw they must be dry and you have to use a jig of some sort to keep the log from rotating when you are cutting it. A V-shaped jig would be a good option for this.

== Glues ==

Most popular glues come from processed oil and they form an incredibly strong bond with wood fibers. Here is a good [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERzvofrGs7I explanation video].

* Wood glues (e.g. Titebond) have water in them. When you press two pieces of wood together, the glue fills the tiny wood gaps and wraps around fibers. As the water leaves the glue, the glue hardens.

* Epoxy uses a resin and a hardener. The resin flows around the wood fibers, and the hardener links the resin together as it evaporates. Note that this process can generate a lot of heat and it must be done in a well-ventilated area. (You cannot do this at Maker Nexus.)

* Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue, super glue) works by flowing around fibers in the wood. As the glue interacts with ambient moisture, the glue polymerizes forming a hard substance. You have a very short amount of time to let the glue flow on the wood surface and when you press another piece of wood together it hardens and holds the opposite sides together. You can use an accelerator which is basically water in a solvent and it creates a stronger bond: the sprayed accelerator flows into the cracks of the wood and then the CA glue immediately hardens on contact. Baking soda is an accelerator for CA glue.

=== Gluing endgrain ===

Remember that solid wood ends are like the edges of a bundle of straws: the surface is actually very uneven and those open ends want to soak up glue (or finish!).

Putting glue on the end grain is said to create a weak joint because the glue doesn't have a lot of sheer strength. But, this video shows how strong the glue itself is: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis See the short, very interesting test video].

[[Advice: Wood Glue Ups|Some local knowledge]] from our members.

== Finishes ==

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abxFCzqOtg0&t=2s Odie's Oil]
** Wipe on, dry, wipe off. 2 coats usually good. Generally easy to apply.
** For larger endgrain slabs, recommendation is to use thin coat and allow 1-2 days per coat to dry completely.
** Cookie slabs can retain a lot of moisture and that will interfere with the hardening process.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsjnRcmC840 Tung oil] finishes

= Supplies =

Also see the general [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]] page.

= Tools =

== Bench Vise ==
* How to pick a vise? [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcbTopj5u7A A fun video with serious information]

== Table Saw ==

Table saws are one of the most useful tools in the woodshop.

* The '''table''' supports your work so you have two hands free to move the materials
* The '''rip fence''' guides your work straight through the blade
* The '''circular saw blade''' creates consistently repeatable cuts
* The '''miter slots''' in the table allow for accessories to glide parallel to the blade such as:
** '''Miter gauge''': fits in one slot, lets you select an angle. Used for small material.
** '''Crosscut sled''': usually fits in two slots, allows you to hold pieces that are wider than they are long safely

Many makerspaces use [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/ SawStop table saws]:

* [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/the-technology/ Injury mitigation technology]: electrical contact-activated brake
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8EX7mt3ByE&list=PL6E065D460FF0BACC SawStop Safety System video]

=== Saw Blades in general ===
* [https://everlastsaw.com/learn/blade-design Saw Blade Design Glossary]
* Some brands members like include: [https://www.cmtorangetools.com/na-en/industrial-saw-blades CMT], [https://diablotools.com/explore/circular-saw-blades/wood-cutting/ Diablo], [https://www.freudtools.com Freud], [https://www.forrestblades.com Forrest]

==== Types of saw blades ====
* '''Ripping blade:''' Fewer, larger teeth with big gullets to help cut fast along the grain, usually 18T-24T
* '''Crosscutting blade:''' More teeth 40T-60T, up to even 100T
* '''Combo blade:''' Larger gullets than a crosscut blade, alternating top bevel (ATB) tooth geometry

=== Saw blade care ===

==== Sharpening a saw blade ====

* Sharping a blade can change its diameter, which may not make it compatible with the SawStop

=== SawStop compatible saw blades ===
About buying blades for the SawStop table saw, from [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/faqs/#hfaq-post-5480 the SawStop FAQ]:

* OK: steel or carbide teeth
* OK: thin kerf, ''minimum'' kerf 3/32"
* OK: 10" saw blade, ''maximum'' kerf 3/16"
** Use a dado stack for cuts wider than 3/16"
* OK: 8" dado stack, ''maximum'' thickness 29/32"
* '''No:''' non-conductive teeth, i.e. diamond blades
* '''No:''' lacquer-coated teeth (graphics or coatings on the blade faces are OK)
* '''No:''' anti-kickback shoulders or anti-depth-limiting
* '''No:''' wobble/dial-a-width dado sets
* '''No:''' solid-plate interior dado chippers
* '''No:''' dado blades with molding heads

== Wood Lathe ==
* Using a skew. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wjh9FcO7ftI Nice video explaining skew angles and when to use each].

== Wood Chisels ==
* '''Sharpening:'''
** The grind on [https://www.dewalt.com/products/hand-tools/chisels-punches-files/chisels DeWalt chisels] is very rough out of the box. The edge isn't durable because it is very jagged. To get a good edge on them you need to carefully flatten the surface of the bevel of the chisel with a rough sharpening stone before moving on to finer grits. Sandpaper is not the right tool for the job.
** Some members like [http://www.narexchisels.com/Narex_Chisels/Home.html Narex chisels] which are similar in price to DeWalt

== CNC router ==

One of the most powerful tools in the shop, the CNC router (like our [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|ShopBot]]) lets you design very precise carves using software like VCarve and Autodesk Fusion 360, then transform that into cutting instructions that are precise to a fraction of an inch. You can make complex shapes, precise joinery, and etch graphics into materials like wood and plastic. ''Maker Nexus has a separate CNC plasma cutter for metals.)''

=== The CNC machine ===

CNC router bits (end mills) are loaded into the [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|ShopBot]] and then calibrated to the surface height of the bed or the top of your material, i.e. Z-zeroed.

* '''Bed:''' the flat surface that supports all of your material to be cut
* '''Work holding:''' methods of pinning down the material to the bed so it doesn't move. ''You absolutely cannot hand hold material because the machine is very strong, the router bit is spinning very fast, and the safety stop switch would be far away.''

=== CNC bits / end mills ===

* '''Collet:''' the clamping receiver that holds the bit. At Maker Nexus we have variious sizes from 1/4" to 1/2"
* '''Collet cover nut:''' holds the collet to the spindle by tightening on the threads. Treat this like a normal router bit: tighten snugly!
** Check the collet for dust and debris ''before'' inserting into the collet cover nut or loading your bit. Brush or bang them out.
** First hand tighten the collet cover nut to the spindle to make sure you've properly aligned the threads, then wrench them tight
* '''Shank:''' the shaft that the collet clamps onto
* '''Flutes:''' the number of cutting surfaces, usually 2, that is just below the shank
* '''Deflection:''' if you move faster through the material than the flutes can chip out, the router bit may actually bend (and possibly break). This leaves you with uneven cuts or can push your material out of its work holds.

Depending on what you're doing, you can choose from a variety of these cutting heads:

* '''Straight bit:''' the flutes are vertical, good for plowing through material sideways
* '''Downcut spiral bit:''' good for digging through material from the top, leaves quite a bit of tearout near the bottom, can also pack sawdust down in a hole and create smoking
* '''Upcut spiral bit:''' good for carving down to the underside of the material, leaving a more neat surface, but creates tearout on the top surface
** An undertightened bit can actually come loose because the spirals are pulling the bit away from the spindle! Be sure to tighten well.
* '''Compression bit:''' A little bit of an upcut spiral at the bottom and then a lot of downcut spiral above that. It's meant so you dig down throught the material fully and then move sideways to do a profile cut. The upcut part at the end makes a neat cut on the bottom side, the downcut part above that makes a neat cut on the top side, meaning you can run pretty fast and have ''both sides'' of the material with minimal tearout. These bits are expensive but are great with veneered plywood.

It's good to ''hog out'' (or ''rough out'') material using a straight/spiral bit first. The following bits are not great for cutting down since they have a smaller cutting surface. Use a downcut spiral first then switch to the ball nose to carve this feature for best results.

* '''Ball nose bit:''' Big radius bit used for creating a smooth slope where the side walls meet a floor.
* '''V-carve bit:''' A pointed bit (usually 45 degrees for bevels and chamfers, 60 degrees for etching signs)

=== CNC carving ===

Then you can do all sorts of cuts:

* '''Profile cut:''' Plow all the way through the material to cut it out. You can also cut a slope with the right combination of bits.
* '''Pocket cut:''' Go part way through the material to hollow it out, like making the inside of a bowl.
* '''V-carve:''' Use the v-shaped bits to etch letters and designs into material
* '''Moulding:''' Use a ball nose bit to create smooth roundovers
* '''Tabs:''' leave a little bit of the material ''uncut'' (usually with profile cuts) so that it's held in place while the rest of the cuts are being done. Then you can slide the tabs off later manually.
* '''Surfacing:''' Use a large flat-cutting bit to level the surface. This is perfect for spoilboards or leveling the surface of a cutting board or rough material.

= Tips =

== Basic Tips ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZkYLVrTYe4 The Way Wood Works -- What Every Woodworker Needs to Know About Wood]
* [https://www.youtube.com/@MattEstlea Matt Estlea]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMYbr93rsCE Select the right screw]

== Bandsaw ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/live/Skffk0Cl_Mk Excellent tutorial]

== Joinery ==
* [https://ruby-press.com/shop/the-joinery-compendium-learning-from-traditional-woodworking/ Joinery Compendium]

== Wood Inlay ==
* [https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/02/07/create-dramatic-inlays-epoxy How to create dramatic inlays with epoxy]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_i_DfncSQc $15,000 Kitchen Island]. Good tips on the overall process of a wood countertop, including epoxy inlay.

== Edge Treatment ==
* [https://youtu.be/_U4UMj07whs?t=903 Making Edge-Grain Patterned Plywood]. The link drops you to the finished piece, the whole video shows how he did it.

== Sanding ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDYPGgjQmF4 So, you think you know how to sand, eh?]. Learn to sand correctly.
* [[Drum sander tips]]

== Table Saw ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSbS5zhH7cE General intro to table saw safety]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JL8-1bmt7XY Blade Height] - what is the right height for your cut?
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5EsvnfyB20 Tablesaw set up] - excellent tips on safety that you might not know about.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f8VWwtaudU Kickback] and how to avoid it. Work safely!
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTVEqzFa5Is A different kind of kickback]!
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSQJ0247ifY Three different blades] - why to use each
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFFzmJfv5No Jointer, Planer, Drum sander] - what do they each do and why?
* [https://youtu.be/u9wHESP07sc?feature=shared Half laps on the tablesaw] without a dado set

== Router ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IBn1iXpzdU Which direction to move the router?]

== Drilling ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlnu1qXGzbI Forstner bits] and how to use them

== Turning ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/@RichardRaffanwoodturning Richard Raffan]
* [https://youtube.com/@tomislavtomasicwoodturning?si=fPTtqZF6RVf_4Efb Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)]

== Misc ==
* An analysis of [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwXVJusqv0s Parallel clamps]
* Tips on [[wood preparation tips 1|precision work with our tools]]

Wood preparation tips 1

2026-04-29T00:23:23Z

Amylee:

= Precision is key =

[[File:CuttingBoard.jpg|400px|right|]]I recently finished an end grain cutting board that I recently finished. In response to a couple of questions from other members who saw me in the process of building it, here are some build notes that may be of help.

I am not going to describe how to build edge grain cutting boards here - there are enough videos on YT that describe how to do that. Instead, I would like to focus on “precision” since even the minutest variations in the lumber will become glaringly obvious, given the nature of the multiple glue-ups involved.

I began with rough lumber on this project, so milling was key. It is good to keep the pieces long for reasons that will become clear below. When you rip long pieces, even you have S4S lumber, you will very often relieve tension inside the wood and the newly cut pieces will warp. To counter this effect, mill the initial lumber over size. That way, you can rip, let the lumber settle into its final state, and then mill again down to final size.

And remember, in projects like this “EQUAL is more important that EXACT”. I wanted this cutting board to be 16" x 16" and had sized all the component pieces accordingly in my plans. However, a couple of pieces had to be milled down to slightly smaller dimensions than what was in the plan. And that was fine because I milled all the pieces to be equal to those smaller pieces. This is a very important concept to remember more generally. For example if you need to make two mortises in a piece to fit a tenon-ed shelf, use a spacer block (rather than exact measurement) to mark out the openings. It does not matter whether the openings are 2.25" from each end, or 2.125". If you use the same spacer block to mark out the mortises and corresponding tenons, you will be just fine. When I first began woodworking, it took me a while to internalize this concept.

Here is the most important aspect for this type of project: as you do the final milling, and in the subsequent cuts, your biggest enemy will be snipe (true in most projects). The bulk of my attention in this project was to try avoiding it at every stage. As I mentioned, the glue-ups in an edge grain cutting board happen at multiple levels. The best surface to glue is one that has been jointed - so, mark all the surfaces that have been through the jointer and try to preserve them as much as possible. I did not use the planer even once in this entire project. In the past, I have tried every trick in the book to pass lumber through the planer without snipe and all my efforts failed. Some techniques minimize snipe, but I have not been able to eliminate it entirely on a consistent basis. The snipe in our planar occurs within 5" from each end. So, generally I just add a foot of board length to everything I mill, finish the process and just trim the sniped ends down to final size.

In this case, I was dealing with valuable wood and there are multiple steps to clean up the pieces. So, cutting 5" off each end at each stage was not viable. Therefore, all the milling was done initially using the jointer and table saw. You can get good results from just doing that. Except, a surface produced by a table saw is not the best for gluing. Therefore, I ran the pieces also through our drum sander, Guess what - the drum sander has snipe! The way to minimize this is to get the drum to just kiss the wood and then adjust it down 1/128" at a time. Yes, this is laborious, but mark my word that you will be glad you did. You can start with 60 grit on the drum sander and go more aggressively if you want more removed initially, but use the technique above (with say 120 grit) to get down to the final size. Remember: take small cuts on all machines whether the jointer, planer or drum sander. On the table saw, if you want a clean rip (ie. smooth surface and without burn marks), first cut it down to say about a 1/16" larger size and then do a final trim to final dimension.

A word about cutting on the table saw - I had to rip 2.5" pieces on this project. The blade on the [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop]] goes all the way up to 3". However, do not attempt to do this cut in a single piece if you are using dense hardwood. You will hear the saw struggle and the heat generated will leave burn marks on the wood. Cut half-way, then flip the board over with the same surface against the fence and finish the cut. You - and the saw - will be much happier.

If you made it all way through reading until here, thanks!

= Notes on Snipe =
On the planer the lever to the right of the bed controlling the rollers in the bed is key. The more the lever is pushed down the greater the snipe. It is rare wood will feed smoothly through the planer with the lever all the way up.

On the drum sander it Is about maintaining the wood in a perfect plane and constant speed through the sander. The MN drum sander doesn’t even have the inadequate optional in and outfeed platforms. I think it would be extremely difficult to avoid snipe entirely. My recommendation with this drum sander is to get an assistant so one person supports and assists the wood entering the sander and another supports the wood exiting. Minor speed variations or a drop of an 1/8 at the end of a long plank is enough create detectable snipe-like defects.

= Tear out when cutting plywood =
The tear out on the table saw is worst where the blade exits the wood such as the bottom and the vertical edge furthest from the operator.

#There are 3 things commonly done to avoid the tear out and blue tape is used most often.
## A parallel sacrificial board can support the wood fibers and be used between the workpiece and the sled or miter bar.
## Another method to keep the bottom veneer from chipping is to do two cuts. We generally only do this when ripping and we can confidently cut repeatedly in the same place. The first cut is done with the blade barely above the table to cut little more than the first layer of veneer, then raise the blade to normal and repeat to complete the cut.
## Tape. Put tape along the cut before making it. You can use lots of different types of tape and there are differences between brands. Blue painters tape is good because it usually has sufficient adhesive to hold for a cut, but peals off without ripping off grain or leaving adhesive on the wood. Less expensive brown masking tape has a stronger adhesive. If you leave any tape on for an extended period such as to label pieces, the adhesive chemicals may absorb into your wood leaving marks. Brown green purple yellow and different brands all can be used. The colors basically correspond to the strength of the adhesive, but they could have other irrelevant properties such as temperature or moisture functional differences. Use whatever is convenient. Our preference is for Scotch brand blue painters tape.
# Get or make a zero clearance insert. You can purchase [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop]] inserts and match them to your blade to get zero clearance. Each blade requires its own zero clearance insert. With use the zero clearance insert will get chipped up and widened. (Even the regular non zero clearance insert gets widened.) Note that the insert will only work for one angle as well; typically you will use a zero clearance insert for 90 degree cuts.

MaterialsManagement

2026-04-29T00:22:44Z

Amylee:

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]

The makerspace does not provide free materials with exception to identified scrap bins. Select materials may be available for purchase in the [[MN Retail|retail area]].

Various areas of the makerspace have an intended use for specific materials (wood, metal, fabric, etc). Please see a staff member if you with to work with unique materials.

You can review the equipment documentation regarding material recommendations and restrictions at
[[Maker Nexus Equipment]]

== Do Not Use ==

Some materials are not appropriate anywhere in the makerspace. When in doubt contact a staff member with materials you are considering for use in your projects.

Do not bring the following into the makerspace:
* Old pressure treated/chemically treated wood. Newly bought wood can be cut on the chopsaw, however do not use it on the tablesaw as it may set off the [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop cartridge]].
* No green wood - tree limbs, etc. unless they are completely dry and approved by a Consulting Maker. Discuss with a consulting maker on any unstable materials as they pose potential dangers when processing.
* No plaster objects may be worked on by any equipment or machines in the shop due to fragility and dust issues.
* No firework or pyrotechnical chemicals as described at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrotechnic_composition\
* No firearms, parts of firearms and other prohibited weapon parts.
* Materials that generate dangerous particles, such as asbestos, carbon fiber, silica dust, and similar. This does include finishes, such as lead paint if the paint will be disturbed.
* Materials and items that are dangerous in construction, for example an un-certified tank under pressure, is not allowed.
* No radioactive materials.

Other materials may be added at any time

== Green Wood ==

There are multiple issues with wet wood and the issues vary depending upon the equipment being used.

Table saw - The [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop brake]] will trigger if you attempt to cut wet wood. There is a bypass for turning off the brake but for safety and liability reasons we don't allow the bypass to be used.

Other cutting tools - depending on how green the wood, cutting wet wood throws off water. For the bandsaw, planer, jointer, this water is sucked into the internal portions of the tool where it can cause several problems. Rust is one of them, but they also tend to cause the sawdust to clump, which eventually hardens and can very difficult to remove. (We've had to use a chisel on a bandsaw wheel to remove hardened sawdust).

Lathes - This is the most common use of green wood in the woodshop. The main issue is the mess it creates. It tends to throw water everywhere and it stains whatever it touches. One woodshop we know used to allow wet wood and the floors and wall turned black. They actually had to replace the floor and paint the wall because they could not get it clean enough.

== Waste ==

All material waste must be disposed of in a fashion that is consistent with Sunnyvale
* Waste Management: https://sunnyvale.ca.gov/property/recycling/default.htm
* Hazardous Waste Management:https://sunnyvale.ca.gov/business/doingbusiness/materials.htm
* Recycling: https://sunnyvale.ca.gov/property/recycling/getrid/center.htm

Waste bins are located in various locations and are labeled as to what kind of material should be put there.

Template:RequiresBOSS

2026-04-29T00:19:41Z

Amylee:

Use this template to specify a BOSS class required for a tool.

'''Example:''' <tt><nowiki>{{RequiresBOSS|class=Woodshop I - table saw, jointer, planer, miter saw}}</nowiki></tt>

'''Result:''' {{RequiresBOSS|class=Woodshop I - table saw, jointer, planer, miter saw}}

'''Note:''' As of the time of creation of this template (31 January 2021), it does ''not'' produce an active link to a page for the class. The intention is that this will change after we have (at least) a first cut at conventions for naming and populating pages for classes.

<onlyinclude><includeonly>Use of this tool requires successful completion of the EQ class "{{{class}}}".<includeonly></onlyinclude>

Template:RequiresBOSS

2026-04-29T00:18:37Z

Amylee:

MN Woodshop

2026-04-29T00:15:50Z

Amylee:

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Woodshop]]

[[File:mn-woodshop.jpeg||Maker Nexus woodshop]]

[[File:mn-woodshop2.jpeg|thumb|Another angle of the Maker Nexus woodshop]]

= About the Maker Nexus woodshop =

We have a full [[Woodshops|woodshop]] on site. [https://www.makernexus.org/join-maker-nexus Members] take classes to gain certification to use the equipment on their own to build everything from turned pens up to large furniture. We feature a wide variety of hand and power tools, including a [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw|SawStop]] table saw and a 4x4' [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|Shopbot]] CNC router. Various tables can be used for glue-ups and work assembly. We use mobile dust collectors and ShopVacs to help keep the area tidy.

Non-members may take skill or project-based [https://www.makernexus.org/classes classes] to learn how to use the equipment as well.

= Education =

[[Woodworking Camp]]

= Available Tools =

[[File:mn-bandsaws.jpeg|thumb|Bandsaws]]

== Band Saws ==
* [[Jet JWBS-14CS 14" Woodworking Band Saw]]
* [[Grizzly G0511 20" Heavy-Duty Bandsaw]]

== Drill Presses ==
* [[Delta 17-900 Drill Press]]
* [[Delta 11-990 Benchtop Drill Press]]
* [[PowerMatic Drill Press]]

== Jointer ==
[[Powermatic 60 B 8" Jointer]]

[[File:mn-woodlathes.jpeg|thumb|Woodshop lathes]]

== Lathes ==
*[[Nova DVR XP Woodlathe]]
*[[Jet 1014 Mini Lathe]]s (4)

[[MN Wood Lathe advice | Advice on wood lathe use]]

[[File:mn-mitersaws.jpeg|thumb|Miter saws]]

== Miter Saws ==
[[DeWalt 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw]]

== Mortiser ==
[[Powermatic PM701 Benchtop Mortiser]]

== Planer ==
[[Powermatic PM180 18" Planer]]

== Scroll Saw ==
[[DeWalt DW788 20" Variable-Speed Scroll Saw]]

[[File:mn-tablesaw.jpeg|thumb|SawStop table saw]]

== Table Saw ==

=== SawStop cabinet table saw ===

We have a: [[SawStop Professional 3HP Table Saw]]. Please read that page on how to not trigger the saw brake inadvertently.

Please see our [[Woodshops#Hazards_from_saw_blades|table saw safety notes]].

[[File:mn-panel-cnc.jpeg|thumb|Panel saw, router tables, ShopBot CNC]]

== Panel Saw ==

== Router Table ==

* We have 1/4" and 1/2" collets

[[Bosch Router]]

== CNC Router ==

===ShopBot===
We have a 4x4 ShopBot. We have a dedicated page for the [[Shopbot and Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|Shopbot]]

We have a license to the makerspace edition of Vetric V-Carve. To activate your copy use the license key found in [https://docs.google.com/document/d/11AxnwOG4xetnLw79vpIqZA8DK5CgwhHUWFBRJLU-QjA/edit this document on our GSuite file share].

[[File:mn-handtools.jpeg|thumb|Various hand tools]]

== Manual Tools ==
* Screwdrivers and bits
* Wrenches
* Pliers
* Chisels
* Rulers
* Machinist squares
* Saws
* Clamps

== Fasteners ==
* Screws
* Nails
* Dowels

== Hand Power Tools ==
*Drills
*Drivers
*Routers
**Plunge Router
**Fixed Base Router
**Trim Router
*Sanders
**Random Orbit Sander
**Belt Sander
*Sawzall
*Skilsaw

When using the battery powered tools, always pull a fresh battery off the charger (and put any battery previously attached to the tool onto that same charger) when you start to use a tool.
That way, regardless of what pattern other people are following, you always start off with a fresh battery, and at least one other fully-charged battery will be available for the next person who needs one.

[[File:mn-downdrafttable.jpeg|thumb|Downdraft table, spindle sanders, belt sander]]

== Downdraft table ==

== Sanders ==
*[[Jet JWDS-1632 16" Drum Sander]]
*Belt & Disc Sander
*Spindle Sander

== Dust Control ==
Many woodworking tools produce fine dust, which can be both a breathing hazard and a potential fire hazard. Sawdust and other debris on floors can also be a slipping hazard. At Maker Nexus we employ a number of measures to mitigate these hazards.

Hoses from our central [[#Dust Collectors|dust collectors]] connect to various machines in the Wood Shop to suck up dust as it is created and filter it out of the air. When using machines connected to the dust collectors, aways check to see that the air intakes are drawing effectively.

Our [[#Air Filtration|air filtration]] units can continuously circulate the air in the shop, filtering out dust not picked up by the dust collectors. A home-built [[#Air Quality Monitoring|air quality monitoring system]] incorporating multiple particle counters will control the air filtration units and also allow us to keep a record of air quality in the shop.

We have several [[#Shop Vacs|shop vacs]] (as well as dust cloths, brooms, and mops) for members to use to clean their work areas and the surrounding floor. When using tools that require reservations, remember to stop work in time to use the last portion of your reserved time slot—''not'' the beginning of the next person's time—for clean-up.

Finally, when you are using a machine that generates a lot of dust, or when particularly dusty operations are going on in the shop, we recommend—and may sometimes require—that you wear a dust mask.

=== Dust Collectors ===
When you turn off a dust collector, after it spins down, turn the beater handle through 3-4 complete rotations to knock free any material that has been pulled tight against the filter paper. If you don't do that, the filters get clogged and CFM goes down, and air quality suffers. (The beater handle is the metal handle that hangs down from the top of the filter.)

* [[Jet DC-1200VX Dust Collector]]
* [[Powermatic PM1900 Dust Collector]]

=== Air Filtration ===

[[Jet AFS-2000 Air Filtration Unit]]s

=== Shop Vacs ===

== Personal Protection ==
Faceshield with airflow [https://www.amazon.com/TREND-AIR-PRO-Airshield-Faceshield/dp/B002Q0Y5IU TREND AIR PRO Airshield Faceshield ]

SawStop Professional 3HP Table Saw

2026-04-29T00:14:15Z

Amylee: /* Training requirements */

[[File:Sawstop_full_image.jpg|400px|thumb|right|SawStop PCS31230 Professional 3HP 52" Fence Table Saw]]

==Safety==
[[File:Photo of bandaged thumb.png|200px|thumb|right|Bandaged thumb waiting in emergency room]]
[[File:Photo of side of thumb.png|200px|thumb|right]]
[[File:Photo of end of thumb.png|200px|thumb|right|Stiches required to repair thumb injured by a SawStop operated without a blade guard]]

Table saws are one of the most dangerous machines in a shop. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, 38,000 or more serious accidents occur each year, averaging once every 15 minutes.

Table saws are especially dangerous because the operator holds the material being cut, instead of the saw, making it easy to accidentally move hands into the spinning blade. In contrast, when using portable circular saws, the material remains stationary, as the operator guides the saw into the material.

===Accidental blade contact===
The photos from a YouTube video show an actual injury to woodwork Rex Krueger's thumb caused by improper use of a StopSaw. He did not loose his thumb, but he did require medical treatment in an emergency room. Rex had an ''irregular laceration of the tip of the thumb''. Two or three teeth of the blade penetrated his thumb nail and flesh to about 2 cm.

Rex attributes his injury to his failure to use a blade guard. A link to the video is in the section [[#External_links|External links]]. The video tells how the accident happened and what Rex felt when the blade struck his thumb. Rex made the video to help others avoid his painful mistake. Rex advised spending $300 for an overarm dust collector, which includes a well designed blade guard. Rex said that his injury would have been much worse, if it were not for the safety features of his SawStop.

===Blade guard===
[[File:BladeGuard.png|300px|thumb|right|Blade guard on SawStop]]
The table saw at Maker Nexus is equipped with two important safety devices, a blade guard and a riving knife. One or the other of these safety devices must be used at all times:

*Using the blade guard is one of the most important steps you can take to prevent injury. Many table saw injuries occur when the blade guard is either not being used or not being used properly. The blade guard covers the blade, and lifts up just enough to allow your material to slide into the blade. The blade guard can be used only for cuts that go all the way through the material. For cuts that do not go all the way through your material, use the riving knife on the table saw, or use a router instead of the table saw.

*The riving knife should be used for cuts that do not go all the way through material, such as dado cuts, grooves, and rabbet cuts, or extremely narrow cuts. When you finish using the riving knife, replace it with the blade guard.

*Injuries often occur because the blade guard is removed for a special job, but the blade guard remains off after the job is finished. If you remove a blade guard, put it back when you get done using the saw.

The manufacturer of the SawStop includes the following warning in the saw's user manual:

<div style="
border: 3px solid black;
padding: 2px 6px 2px 6px;
font-weight: bold;
width: 450px;
>WARNING! Use the blade guard and spreader for every operation for which it can be used, including all through-sawing.</div>

===Not completely safe===
The SawStop manufacturer's marketing materials exaggerate the safety of their saw. The marketing materials show fingers with nothing but a slight nick. They do not show more serious injuries, such as what happened in Rex Krueger's video. Instead of striking the blade from the front, his left thumbnail touched the side of the blade, which suddenly pulled the rest of his thumb into alignment with the blade. The safety system saved his thumb, but he still needed stitches in an emergency room. The accident would not have happened if he had been using the blade guard.

===OSHA requirment===
Blade guards are designed to protect workers from injury. Properly designed blade guards do not create a new hazards:

'''1910.212(a)(2)''' General requirements for machine guards.

Guards shall be affixed to the machine where possible and secured elsewhere if for any reason attachment to the machine is not possible.

The guard shall be such that it <span style="color:red">does not offer an accident hazard</span> in itself.

===Spinning blade===
After the power is shut off, the StopSaw blade continues to spin for about 8 seconds, remaining hazardous. Be sure to wait for the blade to completely stop, before moving materials or adjusting the saw.

==Training requirements==
{{AllSafetyRulesApply}}
{{RequiresBOSS|class=Woodshop I - table saw, jointer, planer, miter saw}}

'''When using the SawStop members are responsible for paying for the cartridge and blade should a brake activation occur during the use of the SawStop table saw. Members assume all risk of brake activation when using the tool and the financial consequence associated with the respective blade and cartridge used. The Maker on Duty is to be consulted immediately upon activation.'''

==How ''not'' to accidentally trigger the brake==
There are several things that will cause the brake to trigger when you did not mean to. It mostly is:

* Don't be electrically-conductive
* Don't be harder than wood

Specifically:

* '''Don't touch the blade.''' Your body is conductive (which is the point of triggering the blade).
* '''Wait a couple seconds after turning off the saw.''' The sensor is active for a couple of seconds ''even after the blade is stopped''. Make sure status light has stopped blinking. Grab the far end of the wood instead.
* '''Don't cut wet wood.''' Green/wet wood may trigger the brake.
* '''Don't cut laser-cut wood.''' As [[#Laser-cut plywood|noted below]], lasers carbonize the wood, and that makes them conductive.
* '''Don't put the miter gauge through the saw blade.''' It's hard.
* '''Don't cut nails, staples, or screws.''' They are hard.

See also [[Woodshops#Safety_considerations|general woodworking safety considerations]].

===Do a test pass with the blade stopped===

Before cutting your material it's always wise to review the cut you are about to do:

* '''Ensure your hands are out of the blade path.''' Confirm your hands won't be in the path of the blade, and/or know what point you'll switch to a push stick.
* '''Ensure miter gauge will pass.''' Without the wood loaded, pass the miter gauge past the blade. Then load the wood and check again.
* '''Ensure the MicroJig will pass over the blade.''' The plastic MicroJig has screws in it. Remember the [https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper MicroJig Grr-Ripper] is meant to pass just over the blade, and there is a maximum height mark on it. It is intended that the saw blade barely comes above the wood surface by about 1/4" to 3/4" max, and the legs will pass on the sides. There's a thinner leg and a thicker leg; rotate the MicroJig if needed. If you must cut really thin wood, consider a different tool than the SawStop, or get a 1/8" leg.
* '''Push the sleds back and forth.''' Make sure the blade angle will pass through the sled without cutting the sled. Note the blade exit at the side towards you and keep your hands clear. Ensure the sleds stay in the miter tracks and will easily glide forward and back. Make sure the sleds aren't too wobbly in the miter tracks.
* '''Ensure the spacer block is secured to the fence.''' It's common practice to use a miter gauge or crosscut sled and use some sort of a stop block on the right clamped to the sled or clamped to the rip fence. But an unsecured block and tumble into the blade. Or, if you are using a metal 1x2x3 machinist block then it could come with the piece when you move it. Make sure these blocks are secured.

==Description==
StopSaw is a high quality table saw, with the added ability to stop before it amputates a finger. Because of the high resistance of human skin, the blade will not stop, until it has broken through skin. You may not loose a finger, but you will need medical treatment in an emergency room.

As stated in Wikipedia, the saw stops in less than five milliseconds, and angular momentum retracts the blade into the table. The design takes advantage of the difference in conductance and capacitance between wood and flesh.

An oscillator generates a 12-volt, 200-kilohertz (kHz) pulsed electrical signal, which is applied to a small plate on one side of the blade. The signal is transferred to the blade by capacitive coupling. A plate on the other side of the blade picks up the signal and sends it to a threshold detector. If a human contacts the blade, the signal will fall below the threshold. After signal loss for 25 micro seconds (µs), the detector will fire. A tooth on a 10-inch circular blade rotating at 4000 RPM will stay in contact with the approximate width of a fingertip for 100 µs. The 200-kHz signal will have up to 10 pulses during that time, and should be able to detect contact with just one tooth. When the brake activates, a spring pushes an aluminum block into the blade. The block is normally held away from the blade by a wire, but during braking an electric current instantly melts the wire, similar to a fuse blowing.

===Specifications===
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/10xqF_zh-qKj8KfkH4YvFCU-xm0J8e6GP/view?usp=sharing Specs (Google Drive)]

* ''Electrical power requirments: ''
::'''230 Volts, 60 Hz'''
::'''13 Amps'''
::'''1 Phase'''

<div class="toccolours mw-collapsible mw-collapsed">

===MN Asset Details===
<div class="mw-collapsible-content">
[[File: SawStop_PCS31230_Table_Saw_SN.jpg |300px|thumb|right|SawStop PCS31230 Serial Number Plate]]
* ''Location: '' '''Wood Shop'''
* ''Model Number: '' '''PCS31230'''
* ''Serial Number: '' '''P180530850'''
* ''MN Asset Number: '' not assigned
<br clear="all">
</div></div>

==Documentation==
[[File:SawStopIcon.png|link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/5/59/Manual_PCS_300_2.pdf|thumb|left|200px|Owner's Manual]]

[[File:SawStopWarnings.png |link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/6/6d/SawStopWarnings.pdf |thumb|200px|SawShop Warnings]]
[[File:SawStopSafety.png |link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/4/49/SawStopSafety.pdf |thumb|200px|SawShop Safety]]

The SawStop owner's manual includes two pages of warnings and two pages of safety information.

==Materials, Tooling, Accessories==

==Settings==

==Tips and tricks==

===Laser-cut plywood===

Do not use the SawStop table saw to cut plywood after it has been cut by a laser, because the laser carbonizes wood, and carbonized wood is conductive.

===Crosscut sled===
Making a new sled is pretty straightforward. Use 3/8" stock (see note), cut two runners to a about 3/4" with the table saw blade at an angle, affix to a flat piece, put on a back plate (the one tricky bit; as close to perpendicular as you can get it!), and run it across the table to cut the kerf. The one that we had before used metal runners, which are very nice, but not at all necessary for most jobs.

Note on materials: Plywood or Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for the base is standard and works great. For the runners, solid wood is oddly enough a poor choice here, because it will expand/contract by its grain. Plywood works alright for runners if you orient their cut such that any expansion tends to pull the sled tighter to the table, but MDF is better. Unfortunately, MDF generally doesn't typically come in 3/8", so needs to be pulled down to the proper size. Best is something like poly vinyl chloride (PVC) (or ultra high molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene! Super slide-y!) that won't expand/contract in response to temperature or humidity. But please don't build the base out of plastic, especially a low-temperature one like UHMW, as it will potentially melt onto the blade.

Back to [[MN-Woodshop]] Equipment List

===Replacing cartridge===
Follow these steps to replace a cartridge:
# Ensure everyone is safe. Check for cuts, scrapes, however minor.
# Unplug saw.
# Identify how it was triggered—check what jigs, if any, were being used. Figure out where in the cut it stopped. Take pictures of setup and position as best you can so we can address any safety issues. Take pictures of material where cut was happening.
# Remove SawStop cartridge and blade (they will be locked together, this can be challenging—youtube if you need help).
# Notify member they will be invoiced for cost of cartridge and sawblade unless we are able to show it was not their fault (sometimes it isn't, but that's about a <1% chance).
# Install new cartridge & blade—check and confirm proper spacing between blade & cartridge with yellow spacer. Err on the open side - too close can accidentally trigger the sawstop feature as well—especially if people don't check when changing blades.
# Fill out a Sawstop trigger report and give it to a manager.

==External links==
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SawStop SawStop article on Wikipedia]
*[https://www.sawstop.com StopSaw company's home page]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wJQn_UGAKY Sawstop Injury I didn't think this could happen], Rex Krueger's video describing his actual StopSaw injury
*[https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/statsaws.pdf Survey of Injuries Involving Stationary Saws—Table and Bench Saws], U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
*[https://www.robsonforensic.com/articles/table-saw-guards-expert-introduction-to-table-saw-safety Table Saw Guards—Expert Introduction to Table Saw Safety], skill and experience do not provide adequate protection
*[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4154236/ Table saw injuries: epidemiology and a proposal for preventive measures], many injuries to students
*[https://www.felder-group.com/WEB/Press/Popular%20Woodworking_05_20_European%20Saws.pdf What You Don’t Know About European Saws], cost more, but include more accessories.

SawStop Professional 3HP Table Saw

2026-04-29T00:13:35Z

Amylee: /* Training requirements */

[[File:Sawstop_full_image.jpg|400px|thumb|right|SawStop PCS31230 Professional 3HP 52" Fence Table Saw]]

==Safety==
[[File:Photo of bandaged thumb.png|200px|thumb|right|Bandaged thumb waiting in emergency room]]
[[File:Photo of side of thumb.png|200px|thumb|right]]
[[File:Photo of end of thumb.png|200px|thumb|right|Stiches required to repair thumb injured by a SawStop operated without a blade guard]]

Table saws are one of the most dangerous machines in a shop. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, 38,000 or more serious accidents occur each year, averaging once every 15 minutes.

Table saws are especially dangerous because the operator holds the material being cut, instead of the saw, making it easy to accidentally move hands into the spinning blade. In contrast, when using portable circular saws, the material remains stationary, as the operator guides the saw into the material.

===Accidental blade contact===
The photos from a YouTube video show an actual injury to woodwork Rex Krueger's thumb caused by improper use of a StopSaw. He did not loose his thumb, but he did require medical treatment in an emergency room. Rex had an ''irregular laceration of the tip of the thumb''. Two or three teeth of the blade penetrated his thumb nail and flesh to about 2 cm.

Rex attributes his injury to his failure to use a blade guard. A link to the video is in the section [[#External_links|External links]]. The video tells how the accident happened and what Rex felt when the blade struck his thumb. Rex made the video to help others avoid his painful mistake. Rex advised spending $300 for an overarm dust collector, which includes a well designed blade guard. Rex said that his injury would have been much worse, if it were not for the safety features of his SawStop.

===Blade guard===
[[File:BladeGuard.png|300px|thumb|right|Blade guard on SawStop]]
The table saw at Maker Nexus is equipped with two important safety devices, a blade guard and a riving knife. One or the other of these safety devices must be used at all times:

*Using the blade guard is one of the most important steps you can take to prevent injury. Many table saw injuries occur when the blade guard is either not being used or not being used properly. The blade guard covers the blade, and lifts up just enough to allow your material to slide into the blade. The blade guard can be used only for cuts that go all the way through the material. For cuts that do not go all the way through your material, use the riving knife on the table saw, or use a router instead of the table saw.

*The riving knife should be used for cuts that do not go all the way through material, such as dado cuts, grooves, and rabbet cuts, or extremely narrow cuts. When you finish using the riving knife, replace it with the blade guard.

*Injuries often occur because the blade guard is removed for a special job, but the blade guard remains off after the job is finished. If you remove a blade guard, put it back when you get done using the saw.

The manufacturer of the SawStop includes the following warning in the saw's user manual:

<div style="
border: 3px solid black;
padding: 2px 6px 2px 6px;
font-weight: bold;
width: 450px;
>WARNING! Use the blade guard and spreader for every operation for which it can be used, including all through-sawing.</div>

===Not completely safe===
The SawStop manufacturer's marketing materials exaggerate the safety of their saw. The marketing materials show fingers with nothing but a slight nick. They do not show more serious injuries, such as what happened in Rex Krueger's video. Instead of striking the blade from the front, his left thumbnail touched the side of the blade, which suddenly pulled the rest of his thumb into alignment with the blade. The safety system saved his thumb, but he still needed stitches in an emergency room. The accident would not have happened if he had been using the blade guard.

===OSHA requirment===
Blade guards are designed to protect workers from injury. Properly designed blade guards do not create a new hazards:

'''1910.212(a)(2)''' General requirements for machine guards.

Guards shall be affixed to the machine where possible and secured elsewhere if for any reason attachment to the machine is not possible.

The guard shall be such that it <span style="color:red">does not offer an accident hazard</span> in itself.

===Spinning blade===
After the power is shut off, the StopSaw blade continues to spin for about 8 seconds, remaining hazardous. Be sure to wait for the blade to completely stop, before moving materials or adjusting the saw.

==Training requirements==
{{AllSafetyRulesApply}}
{{RequiresBOSS|class=Woodshop I - table saw, jointer, planer, miter saw}}

When using the SawStop members are responsible for paying for the cartridge and blade should a brake activation occur during the use of the SawStop table saw. Members assume all risk of brake activation when using the tool and the financial consequence associated with the respective blade and cartridge used. The Maker on Duty is to be consulted immediately upon activation.

==How ''not'' to accidentally trigger the brake==
There are several things that will cause the brake to trigger when you did not mean to. It mostly is:

* Don't be electrically-conductive
* Don't be harder than wood

Specifically:

* '''Don't touch the blade.''' Your body is conductive (which is the point of triggering the blade).
* '''Wait a couple seconds after turning off the saw.''' The sensor is active for a couple of seconds ''even after the blade is stopped''. Make sure status light has stopped blinking. Grab the far end of the wood instead.
* '''Don't cut wet wood.''' Green/wet wood may trigger the brake.
* '''Don't cut laser-cut wood.''' As [[#Laser-cut plywood|noted below]], lasers carbonize the wood, and that makes them conductive.
* '''Don't put the miter gauge through the saw blade.''' It's hard.
* '''Don't cut nails, staples, or screws.''' They are hard.

See also [[Woodshops#Safety_considerations|general woodworking safety considerations]].

===Do a test pass with the blade stopped===

Before cutting your material it's always wise to review the cut you are about to do:

* '''Ensure your hands are out of the blade path.''' Confirm your hands won't be in the path of the blade, and/or know what point you'll switch to a push stick.
* '''Ensure miter gauge will pass.''' Without the wood loaded, pass the miter gauge past the blade. Then load the wood and check again.
* '''Ensure the MicroJig will pass over the blade.''' The plastic MicroJig has screws in it. Remember the [https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper MicroJig Grr-Ripper] is meant to pass just over the blade, and there is a maximum height mark on it. It is intended that the saw blade barely comes above the wood surface by about 1/4" to 3/4" max, and the legs will pass on the sides. There's a thinner leg and a thicker leg; rotate the MicroJig if needed. If you must cut really thin wood, consider a different tool than the SawStop, or get a 1/8" leg.
* '''Push the sleds back and forth.''' Make sure the blade angle will pass through the sled without cutting the sled. Note the blade exit at the side towards you and keep your hands clear. Ensure the sleds stay in the miter tracks and will easily glide forward and back. Make sure the sleds aren't too wobbly in the miter tracks.
* '''Ensure the spacer block is secured to the fence.''' It's common practice to use a miter gauge or crosscut sled and use some sort of a stop block on the right clamped to the sled or clamped to the rip fence. But an unsecured block and tumble into the blade. Or, if you are using a metal 1x2x3 machinist block then it could come with the piece when you move it. Make sure these blocks are secured.

==Description==
StopSaw is a high quality table saw, with the added ability to stop before it amputates a finger. Because of the high resistance of human skin, the blade will not stop, until it has broken through skin. You may not loose a finger, but you will need medical treatment in an emergency room.

As stated in Wikipedia, the saw stops in less than five milliseconds, and angular momentum retracts the blade into the table. The design takes advantage of the difference in conductance and capacitance between wood and flesh.

An oscillator generates a 12-volt, 200-kilohertz (kHz) pulsed electrical signal, which is applied to a small plate on one side of the blade. The signal is transferred to the blade by capacitive coupling. A plate on the other side of the blade picks up the signal and sends it to a threshold detector. If a human contacts the blade, the signal will fall below the threshold. After signal loss for 25 micro seconds (µs), the detector will fire. A tooth on a 10-inch circular blade rotating at 4000 RPM will stay in contact with the approximate width of a fingertip for 100 µs. The 200-kHz signal will have up to 10 pulses during that time, and should be able to detect contact with just one tooth. When the brake activates, a spring pushes an aluminum block into the blade. The block is normally held away from the blade by a wire, but during braking an electric current instantly melts the wire, similar to a fuse blowing.

===Specifications===
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/10xqF_zh-qKj8KfkH4YvFCU-xm0J8e6GP/view?usp=sharing Specs (Google Drive)]

* ''Electrical power requirments: ''
::'''230 Volts, 60 Hz'''
::'''13 Amps'''
::'''1 Phase'''

<div class="toccolours mw-collapsible mw-collapsed">

===MN Asset Details===
<div class="mw-collapsible-content">
[[File: SawStop_PCS31230_Table_Saw_SN.jpg |300px|thumb|right|SawStop PCS31230 Serial Number Plate]]
* ''Location: '' '''Wood Shop'''
* ''Model Number: '' '''PCS31230'''
* ''Serial Number: '' '''P180530850'''
* ''MN Asset Number: '' not assigned
<br clear="all">
</div></div>

==Documentation==
[[File:SawStopIcon.png|link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/5/59/Manual_PCS_300_2.pdf|thumb|left|200px|Owner's Manual]]

[[File:SawStopWarnings.png |link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/6/6d/SawStopWarnings.pdf |thumb|200px|SawShop Warnings]]
[[File:SawStopSafety.png |link=https://makernexuswiki.com/images/4/49/SawStopSafety.pdf |thumb|200px|SawShop Safety]]

The SawStop owner's manual includes two pages of warnings and two pages of safety information.

==Materials, Tooling, Accessories==

==Settings==

==Tips and tricks==

===Laser-cut plywood===

Do not use the SawStop table saw to cut plywood after it has been cut by a laser, because the laser carbonizes wood, and carbonized wood is conductive.

===Crosscut sled===
Making a new sled is pretty straightforward. Use 3/8" stock (see note), cut two runners to a about 3/4" with the table saw blade at an angle, affix to a flat piece, put on a back plate (the one tricky bit; as close to perpendicular as you can get it!), and run it across the table to cut the kerf. The one that we had before used metal runners, which are very nice, but not at all necessary for most jobs.

Note on materials: Plywood or Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for the base is standard and works great. For the runners, solid wood is oddly enough a poor choice here, because it will expand/contract by its grain. Plywood works alright for runners if you orient their cut such that any expansion tends to pull the sled tighter to the table, but MDF is better. Unfortunately, MDF generally doesn't typically come in 3/8", so needs to be pulled down to the proper size. Best is something like poly vinyl chloride (PVC) (or ultra high molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene! Super slide-y!) that won't expand/contract in response to temperature or humidity. But please don't build the base out of plastic, especially a low-temperature one like UHMW, as it will potentially melt onto the blade.

Back to [[MN-Woodshop]] Equipment List

===Replacing cartridge===
Follow these steps to replace a cartridge:
# Ensure everyone is safe. Check for cuts, scrapes, however minor.
# Unplug saw.
# Identify how it was triggered—check what jigs, if any, were being used. Figure out where in the cut it stopped. Take pictures of setup and position as best you can so we can address any safety issues. Take pictures of material where cut was happening.
# Remove SawStop cartridge and blade (they will be locked together, this can be challenging—youtube if you need help).
# Notify member they will be invoiced for cost of cartridge and sawblade unless we are able to show it was not their fault (sometimes it isn't, but that's about a <1% chance).
# Install new cartridge & blade—check and confirm proper spacing between blade & cartridge with yellow spacer. Err on the open side - too close can accidentally trigger the sawstop feature as well—especially if people don't check when changing blades.
# Fill out a Sawstop trigger report and give it to a manager.

==External links==
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SawStop SawStop article on Wikipedia]
*[https://www.sawstop.com StopSaw company's home page]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wJQn_UGAKY Sawstop Injury I didn't think this could happen], Rex Krueger's video describing his actual StopSaw injury
*[https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/statsaws.pdf Survey of Injuries Involving Stationary Saws—Table and Bench Saws], U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
*[https://www.robsonforensic.com/articles/table-saw-guards-expert-introduction-to-table-saw-safety Table Saw Guards—Expert Introduction to Table Saw Safety], skill and experience do not provide adequate protection
*[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4154236/ Table saw injuries: epidemiology and a proposal for preventive measures], many injuries to students
*[https://www.felder-group.com/WEB/Press/Popular%20Woodworking_05_20_European%20Saws.pdf What You Don’t Know About European Saws], cost more, but include more accessories.

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2026-01-20T16:47:45Z

Amylee: /* Intertape Polymer Group (ipg) */

We have a little [[MN Retail|supplies store]] near the Main Entrance, but you will of course need more! Here is a list of local and online sources for materials and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.

== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.
* [https://makerstock.com Makerstock] sells all kinds of materials.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded.
* '''Cast''' has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect.
* '''Extruded''' works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet.
* '''Cast''' has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering.
* '''Extruded''' comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

''Note: be sure to clarify if plastics are laserable if you intend to laser cut them at Maker Nexus!''

===[https://www.calsakplastics.com Calsak Plastics]===
* Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle, etc.

===[http://www.delviesplastics.com Delvie's Plastics]===
* Online store
* Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips.
* Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials

===[https://houstonacrylic.com/ Houston Acrylic]===
* Specializes in laserable materials

===[https://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]===
* San Francisco, etc.
* 33340 Central Avenue, Union City CA 94587
* 510-746-2200
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM

===[https://www.professionalplastics.com Professional Plastics]===
* 2175 Kruse Dr., San Jose, CA 95131-1214
* 408-434-9410, 800-523-2807
* Mon-Fri: 8AM-5PM

===[https://portplastics.com Port Plastics]===
* 550 E. Trimble Road #A, San Jose, CA 95131
* 408-571-2231
* Mon-Fri: 7AM-4PM

===[https://www.tapplastics.com TAP Plastics]===
* Fremont, San Jose, San Leandro, San Mateo, San Francisco, etc.
* A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded.
* Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic products that are not laser safe.
* Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.
* San Jose store:
** 1212 The Alameda, San Jose, CA 95126
** 408-292-8685
** Mon-Fri 8:30AM-5:30PM
** Sat: 9AM-5PM

===[https://www.usplastic.com U.S. Plastic]===
* Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
* Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
* PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping
* 800-537-9724

== Wood & Veneers ==

===[https://www.brucebauer.com Bruce Bauer Lumber & Supply]===
* 134 San Antonio Circle, Mountain View, CA 94040
* They will cut boards down for you (so long as the remainder of the board is sufficiently long)
* Mon-Fri 7AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-4:30PM

===[https://exoticwoodzone.com/ Exotic Wood Zone]===
* Interesting woods such as guitar wood

===[https://www.globalwoodsource.com Global Wood Source]===
* 180 East Sunnyoaks Ave Building #3, Campbell, CA 95008
* Mon-Fri 9AM-4PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://hardwoods-inc.com/hardwoods-san-jose/ Hardwoods San Jose (aka Aura Hardwoods)]===
* San Jose and online
* 620 Quinn Ave, San Jose, CA, 95112
* Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods.
* If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
* They are cool with you breaking down lumber in their parking lot and their carts make an OK workbench
* They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN.
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.
Mon-Fri 8AM-4PM

===[https://makernexuswiki.com/index.php?title=Supply_Sources&action=edit The Home Depot]===
* Sunnyvale and many locations
* Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.
* The Sunnyvale location has great Endesa sanded plywood (Sandeply) and has been reliably flat
* Mon-Sat 6AM-10PM
* Sun 7AM-8PM

===[https://www.macbeath.com Macbeath Hardwood]===
* 930 Ashby Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-4:30PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://mayanhardwood.com Mayan Hardwood]===
* Oxnard, Paso Robles.

===[https://moorenewton.com Moore Newton]===
* 2115 Williams St, San Leandro, CA 94577
* Mon-Fri 8AM-4:30PM
* They will do some cutting of lumber for you, but you can also cut it yourself in the parking lot
* They will do delivery to MN
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===[https://ocoochhardwoods.com Ocooch Hardwoods]===
* Viola, WI

===[https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/san-carlos Woodcraft]===
* 40 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
* Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut
* Carries their Wood River brand of tools
* Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM
* Sat 9AM-5PM
* Sun 11AM-4PM

== Wood CNC and Tools ==

===[https://www.freudtools.com Freud]===
* End mills and other bits
* Lots of [https://www.freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/joinery joinery bits]

===[https://www.itape.com Intertape Polymer Group (ipg)]===
* Good non-marking release double stick tape (double-sided tape) for CNC work holding, especially [https://www.itape.com/product/591/ IPG 591] double-coated flatback tape

===[https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com Whiteside Machine Company]===
* End mills and other bits for CNC and routers

== Wood Services ==

=== Sharpening and Honing ===

Sharpening and honing for chisels, saw blades, and more.

* [https://acmesawshop.com/ Acme Saw Shop]

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

====[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]====
* These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

* This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
* There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==

===[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply (IMS)]===
* 569 Charcot Ave. San Jose, CA 95131
* Formerly Campbell Metal
* Full-range metal supplier. Large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum).

===[https://www.ondrivesus.com Ondrives]===
* Online
* Rods, fasteners, and other tools like clutches and couplings

===[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metal San Jose]===
* 1800 Monterey Highway, San Jose, CA 95112
* Scrap metal buyer and reseller.
* Mon-Fri 7AM-4PM
* Sat 8AM-12PM

===[https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city Alan Steel Redwood City]===
* 505 E Bayshore Rd Redwood City, CA 94063
* Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials.
* Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.
* Mon-Thu 8AM-4PM

===[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets]===
* 2413 Zanker Rd, San Jose, CA 95131
* A franchise.
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-1PM

===[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum, Inc.]===
* Hayward, Fresno, etc.
* 30551 Huntwood Avenue, Hayward, CA 94544

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==

===[http://fabworks.com Fabworks]===
* On-demand sheet metal services.
* Laser Cutting, Bending, Hardware, Countersinking, Tapping, and Powder Coating for Aluminum, Steel, and Stainless sheet metal.
* Upload a .STEP file (e.g. output from OnShape or Fusion 360), and get instant quotes (with excellent prices). Turnaround time is quick, and there's free shipping too.

===[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send]===
* You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote.
They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

===[https://www.xometry.com/ Xometry]===

== Paper and Cardboard ==

===[https://kellyspicers.com Kelly Spicers (was Kelly Paper)]===
* San Jose, Palo Alto
* Wide selection of paper stock, corrugated cardboard, paperboard
* Also foam, cardboard sheets and boxes, packing materials
* Words well on our laser cutters, hot wire cutter
* Thick linen paper is really nice to cut
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-5PM

== 3D printer filament ==

===[https://www.esun3d.com/ eSun]===

Available directly from them and on Amazon. PLA+ and PETG+ have been very reliable. Packaging is good.

===[https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers]===

===[https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/ Prusament]===

PLA, PTEG are reliable

===[https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/filament Printed Solid]===

Sells Prusament and Jessie

== Electronics Parts ==

===LED strips===
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=meijiajia+led+neon+strip+lights&crid=12E4VSKLOUF2Y&sprefix=meijiajia%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_9 Neon LED strips], like the one used in our "[https://app.amilia.com/store/en/makernexus/shop/activities/5776275 Make an LED Neon Sign]" class
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cuttable+12V+LED+strip&crid=36ISWSZ4II4AD&sprefix=cuttable+12v+led+stri%2Caps%2C150&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Cuttable 12V LED strip lighting]

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

===[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso]===

===[https://www.mcmaster.com McMaster Carr]===
The world of all the fasteners you didn't know you needed including:
* Machine screws, including metric screws
* Thumb screws
* Metal rods
* Springs, pins, and anchors
* Magnets
* Pipe adapters
* Tools

== Sewing, Quilting, Textiles ==

===[https://allstitch.com/ AllStitch]===

===[https://rnk-floriani.com/ Floriani]===

===[https://redrockthreads.com/ Red Rock Threads]===

===[https://mobile.sewmanyparts.com/ Sew Many Parts]===
* Good Madeira thread

== Embroidery Designs==

===[https://emblibrary.com/# Embroidery Library]===

===[https://urbanthreads.com/index.php# Urban Threads]===

===[https://www.wawak.com/ WAWAK]===

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

* LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

* Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

===[https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates Grimco substrates]===
* Various materials like aluminum, magnetic, and sign blanks
* Including [https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-651-intermediate-cal Oracal vinyl]

===[https://signwarehouse.com/ Sign Warehouse]===
* including [https://signwarehouse.com/collections/3m-printable-vinyl-wraps-and-supplies 3M printable vinyl]

== Search Keywords ==
Metal Stores

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2026-01-20T16:47:31Z

Amylee: /* Wood CNC and Tools */

We have a little [[MN Retail|supplies store]] near the Main Entrance, but you will of course need more! Here is a list of local and online sources for materials and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.

== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.
* [https://makerstock.com Makerstock] sells all kinds of materials.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded.
* '''Cast''' has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect.
* '''Extruded''' works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet.
* '''Cast''' has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering.
* '''Extruded''' comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

''Note: be sure to clarify if plastics are laserable if you intend to laser cut them at Maker Nexus!''

===[https://www.calsakplastics.com Calsak Plastics]===
* Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle, etc.

===[http://www.delviesplastics.com Delvie's Plastics]===
* Online store
* Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips.
* Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials

===[https://houstonacrylic.com/ Houston Acrylic]===
* Specializes in laserable materials

===[https://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]===
* San Francisco, etc.
* 33340 Central Avenue, Union City CA 94587
* 510-746-2200
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM

===[https://www.professionalplastics.com Professional Plastics]===
* 2175 Kruse Dr., San Jose, CA 95131-1214
* 408-434-9410, 800-523-2807
* Mon-Fri: 8AM-5PM

===[https://portplastics.com Port Plastics]===
* 550 E. Trimble Road #A, San Jose, CA 95131
* 408-571-2231
* Mon-Fri: 7AM-4PM

===[https://www.tapplastics.com TAP Plastics]===
* Fremont, San Jose, San Leandro, San Mateo, San Francisco, etc.
* A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded.
* Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic products that are not laser safe.
* Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.
* San Jose store:
** 1212 The Alameda, San Jose, CA 95126
** 408-292-8685
** Mon-Fri 8:30AM-5:30PM
** Sat: 9AM-5PM

===[https://www.usplastic.com U.S. Plastic]===
* Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
* Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
* PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping
* 800-537-9724

== Wood & Veneers ==

===[https://www.brucebauer.com Bruce Bauer Lumber & Supply]===
* 134 San Antonio Circle, Mountain View, CA 94040
* They will cut boards down for you (so long as the remainder of the board is sufficiently long)
* Mon-Fri 7AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-4:30PM

===[https://exoticwoodzone.com/ Exotic Wood Zone]===
* Interesting woods such as guitar wood

===[https://www.globalwoodsource.com Global Wood Source]===
* 180 East Sunnyoaks Ave Building #3, Campbell, CA 95008
* Mon-Fri 9AM-4PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://hardwoods-inc.com/hardwoods-san-jose/ Hardwoods San Jose (aka Aura Hardwoods)]===
* San Jose and online
* 620 Quinn Ave, San Jose, CA, 95112
* Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods.
* If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
* They are cool with you breaking down lumber in their parking lot and their carts make an OK workbench
* They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN.
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.
Mon-Fri 8AM-4PM

===[https://makernexuswiki.com/index.php?title=Supply_Sources&action=edit The Home Depot]===
* Sunnyvale and many locations
* Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.
* The Sunnyvale location has great Endesa sanded plywood (Sandeply) and has been reliably flat
* Mon-Sat 6AM-10PM
* Sun 7AM-8PM

===[https://www.macbeath.com Macbeath Hardwood]===
* 930 Ashby Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-4:30PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://mayanhardwood.com Mayan Hardwood]===
* Oxnard, Paso Robles.

===[https://moorenewton.com Moore Newton]===
* 2115 Williams St, San Leandro, CA 94577
* Mon-Fri 8AM-4:30PM
* They will do some cutting of lumber for you, but you can also cut it yourself in the parking lot
* They will do delivery to MN
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===[https://ocoochhardwoods.com Ocooch Hardwoods]===
* Viola, WI

===[https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/san-carlos Woodcraft]===
* 40 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
* Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut
* Carries their Wood River brand of tools
* Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM
* Sat 9AM-5PM
* Sun 11AM-4PM

== Wood CNC and Tools ==

===[https://www.freudtools.com Freud]===
* End mills and other bits
* Lots of [https://www.freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/joinery joinery bits]

===[https://www.itape.com Intertape Polymer Group (ipg)]===
* Good double stick tape (double-sided tape) for CNC work holding, especially [https://www.itape.com/product/591/ IPG 591] double-coated flatback tape

===[https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com Whiteside Machine Company]===
* End mills and other bits for CNC and routers

== Wood Services ==

=== Sharpening and Honing ===

Sharpening and honing for chisels, saw blades, and more.

* [https://acmesawshop.com/ Acme Saw Shop]

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

====[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]====
* These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

* This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
* There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==

===[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply (IMS)]===
* 569 Charcot Ave. San Jose, CA 95131
* Formerly Campbell Metal
* Full-range metal supplier. Large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum).

===[https://www.ondrivesus.com Ondrives]===
* Online
* Rods, fasteners, and other tools like clutches and couplings

===[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metal San Jose]===
* 1800 Monterey Highway, San Jose, CA 95112
* Scrap metal buyer and reseller.
* Mon-Fri 7AM-4PM
* Sat 8AM-12PM

===[https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city Alan Steel Redwood City]===
* 505 E Bayshore Rd Redwood City, CA 94063
* Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials.
* Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.
* Mon-Thu 8AM-4PM

===[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets]===
* 2413 Zanker Rd, San Jose, CA 95131
* A franchise.
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-1PM

===[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum, Inc.]===
* Hayward, Fresno, etc.
* 30551 Huntwood Avenue, Hayward, CA 94544

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==

===[http://fabworks.com Fabworks]===
* On-demand sheet metal services.
* Laser Cutting, Bending, Hardware, Countersinking, Tapping, and Powder Coating for Aluminum, Steel, and Stainless sheet metal.
* Upload a .STEP file (e.g. output from OnShape or Fusion 360), and get instant quotes (with excellent prices). Turnaround time is quick, and there's free shipping too.

===[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send]===
* You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote.
They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

===[https://www.xometry.com/ Xometry]===

== Paper and Cardboard ==

===[https://kellyspicers.com Kelly Spicers (was Kelly Paper)]===
* San Jose, Palo Alto
* Wide selection of paper stock, corrugated cardboard, paperboard
* Also foam, cardboard sheets and boxes, packing materials
* Words well on our laser cutters, hot wire cutter
* Thick linen paper is really nice to cut
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-5PM

== 3D printer filament ==

===[https://www.esun3d.com/ eSun]===

Available directly from them and on Amazon. PLA+ and PETG+ have been very reliable. Packaging is good.

===[https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers]===

===[https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/ Prusament]===

PLA, PTEG are reliable

===[https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/filament Printed Solid]===

Sells Prusament and Jessie

== Electronics Parts ==

===LED strips===
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=meijiajia+led+neon+strip+lights&crid=12E4VSKLOUF2Y&sprefix=meijiajia%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_9 Neon LED strips], like the one used in our "[https://app.amilia.com/store/en/makernexus/shop/activities/5776275 Make an LED Neon Sign]" class
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cuttable+12V+LED+strip&crid=36ISWSZ4II4AD&sprefix=cuttable+12v+led+stri%2Caps%2C150&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Cuttable 12V LED strip lighting]

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

===[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso]===

===[https://www.mcmaster.com McMaster Carr]===
The world of all the fasteners you didn't know you needed including:
* Machine screws, including metric screws
* Thumb screws
* Metal rods
* Springs, pins, and anchors
* Magnets
* Pipe adapters
* Tools

== Sewing, Quilting, Textiles ==

===[https://allstitch.com/ AllStitch]===

===[https://rnk-floriani.com/ Floriani]===

===[https://redrockthreads.com/ Red Rock Threads]===

===[https://mobile.sewmanyparts.com/ Sew Many Parts]===
* Good Madeira thread

== Embroidery Designs==

===[https://emblibrary.com/# Embroidery Library]===

===[https://urbanthreads.com/index.php# Urban Threads]===

===[https://www.wawak.com/ WAWAK]===

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

* LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

* Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

===[https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates Grimco substrates]===
* Various materials like aluminum, magnetic, and sign blanks
* Including [https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-651-intermediate-cal Oracal vinyl]

===[https://signwarehouse.com/ Sign Warehouse]===
* including [https://signwarehouse.com/collections/3m-printable-vinyl-wraps-and-supplies 3M printable vinyl]

== Search Keywords ==
Metal Stores

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2026-01-12T18:47:18Z

Amylee: /* All Metals */

We have a little [[MN Retail|supplies store]] near the Main Entrance, but you will of course need more! Here is a list of local and online sources for materials and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.

== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.
* [https://makerstock.com Makerstock] sells all kinds of materials.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded.
* '''Cast''' has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect.
* '''Extruded''' works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet.
* '''Cast''' has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering.
* '''Extruded''' comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

''Note: be sure to clarify if plastics are laserable if you intend to laser cut them at Maker Nexus!''

===[https://www.calsakplastics.com Calsak Plastics]===
* Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle, etc.

===[http://www.delviesplastics.com Delvie's Plastics]===
* Online store
* Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips.
* Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials

===[https://houstonacrylic.com/ Houston Acrylic]===
* Specializes in laserable materials

===[https://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]===
* San Francisco, etc.
* 33340 Central Avenue, Union City CA 94587
* 510-746-2200
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM

===[https://www.professionalplastics.com Professional Plastics]===
* 2175 Kruse Dr., San Jose, CA 95131-1214
* 408-434-9410, 800-523-2807
* Mon-Fri: 8AM-5PM

===[https://portplastics.com Port Plastics]===
* 550 E. Trimble Road #A, San Jose, CA 95131
* 408-571-2231
* Mon-Fri: 7AM-4PM

===[https://www.tapplastics.com TAP Plastics]===
* Fremont, San Jose, San Leandro, San Mateo, San Francisco, etc.
* A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded.
* Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic products that are not laser safe.
* Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.
* San Jose store:
** 1212 The Alameda, San Jose, CA 95126
** 408-292-8685
** Mon-Fri 8:30AM-5:30PM
** Sat: 9AM-5PM

===[https://www.usplastic.com U.S. Plastic]===
* Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
* Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
* PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping
* 800-537-9724

== Wood & Veneers ==

===[https://www.brucebauer.com Bruce Bauer Lumber & Supply]===
* 134 San Antonio Circle, Mountain View, CA 94040
* They will cut boards down for you (so long as the remainder of the board is sufficiently long)
* Mon-Fri 7AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-4:30PM

===[https://exoticwoodzone.com/ Exotic Wood Zone]===
* Interesting woods such as guitar wood

===[https://www.globalwoodsource.com Global Wood Source]===
* 180 East Sunnyoaks Ave Building #3, Campbell, CA 95008
* Mon-Fri 9AM-4PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://hardwoods-inc.com/hardwoods-san-jose/ Hardwoods San Jose (aka Aura Hardwoods)]===
* San Jose and online
* 620 Quinn Ave, San Jose, CA, 95112
* Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods.
* If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
* They are cool with you breaking down lumber in their parking lot and their carts make an OK workbench
* They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN.
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.
Mon-Fri 8AM-4PM

===[https://makernexuswiki.com/index.php?title=Supply_Sources&action=edit The Home Depot]===
* Sunnyvale and many locations
* Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.
* The Sunnyvale location has great Endesa sanded plywood (Sandeply) and has been reliably flat
* Mon-Sat 6AM-10PM
* Sun 7AM-8PM

===[https://www.macbeath.com Macbeath Hardwood]===
* 930 Ashby Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-4:30PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://mayanhardwood.com Mayan Hardwood]===
* Oxnard, Paso Robles.

===[https://moorenewton.com Moore Newton]===
* 2115 Williams St, San Leandro, CA 94577
* Mon-Fri 8AM-4:30PM
* They will do some cutting of lumber for you, but you can also cut it yourself in the parking lot
* They will do delivery to MN
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===[https://ocoochhardwoods.com Ocooch Hardwoods]===
* Viola, WI

===[https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/san-carlos Woodcraft]===
* 40 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
* Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut
* Carries their Wood River brand of tools
* Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM
* Sat 9AM-5PM
* Sun 11AM-4PM

== Wood CNC and Tools ==

===[https://www.freudtools.com Freud]===
* End mills and other bits
* Lots of [https://www.freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/joinery joinery bits]

===[https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com Whiteside Machine Company]===
* End mills and other bits for CNC and routers

== Wood Services ==

=== Sharpening and Honing ===

Sharpening and honing for chisels, saw blades, and more.

* [https://acmesawshop.com/ Acme Saw Shop]

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

====[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]====
* These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

* This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
* There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==

===[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply (IMS)]===
* 569 Charcot Ave. San Jose, CA 95131
* Formerly Campbell Metal
* Full-range metal supplier. Large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum).

===[https://www.ondrivesus.com Ondrives]===
* Online
* Rods, fasteners, and other tools like clutches and couplings

===[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metal San Jose]===
* 1800 Monterey Highway, San Jose, CA 95112
* Scrap metal buyer and reseller.
* Mon-Fri 7AM-4PM
* Sat 8AM-12PM

===[https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city Alan Steel Redwood City]===
* 505 E Bayshore Rd Redwood City, CA 94063
* Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials.
* Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.
* Mon-Thu 8AM-4PM

===[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets]===
* 2413 Zanker Rd, San Jose, CA 95131
* A franchise.
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-1PM

===[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum, Inc.]===
* Hayward, Fresno, etc.
* 30551 Huntwood Avenue, Hayward, CA 94544

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==

===[http://fabworks.com Fabworks]===
* On-demand sheet metal services.
* Laser Cutting, Bending, Hardware, Countersinking, Tapping, and Powder Coating for Aluminum, Steel, and Stainless sheet metal.
* Upload a .STEP file (e.g. output from OnShape or Fusion 360), and get instant quotes (with excellent prices). Turnaround time is quick, and there's free shipping too.

===[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send]===
* You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote.
They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

===[https://www.xometry.com/ Xometry]===

== Paper and Cardboard ==

===[https://kellyspicers.com Kelly Spicers (was Kelly Paper)]===
* San Jose, Palo Alto
* Wide selection of paper stock, corrugated cardboard, paperboard
* Also foam, cardboard sheets and boxes, packing materials
* Words well on our laser cutters, hot wire cutter
* Thick linen paper is really nice to cut
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-5PM

== 3D printer filament ==

===[https://www.esun3d.com/ eSun]===

Available directly from them and on Amazon. PLA+ and PETG+ have been very reliable. Packaging is good.

===[https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers]===

===[https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/ Prusament]===

PLA, PTEG are reliable

===[https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/filament Printed Solid]===

Sells Prusament and Jessie

== Electronics Parts ==

===LED strips===
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=meijiajia+led+neon+strip+lights&crid=12E4VSKLOUF2Y&sprefix=meijiajia%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_9 Neon LED strips], like the one used in our "[https://app.amilia.com/store/en/makernexus/shop/activities/5776275 Make an LED Neon Sign]" class
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cuttable+12V+LED+strip&crid=36ISWSZ4II4AD&sprefix=cuttable+12v+led+stri%2Caps%2C150&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Cuttable 12V LED strip lighting]

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

===[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso]===

===[https://www.mcmaster.com McMaster Carr]===
The world of all the fasteners you didn't know you needed including:
* Machine screws, including metric screws
* Thumb screws
* Metal rods
* Springs, pins, and anchors
* Magnets
* Pipe adapters
* Tools

== Sewing, Quilting, Textiles ==

===[https://allstitch.com/ AllStitch]===

===[https://rnk-floriani.com/ Floriani]===

===[https://redrockthreads.com/ Red Rock Threads]===

===[https://mobile.sewmanyparts.com/ Sew Many Parts]===
* Good Madeira thread

== Embroidery Designs==

===[https://emblibrary.com/# Embroidery Library]===

===[https://urbanthreads.com/index.php# Urban Threads]===

===[https://www.wawak.com/ WAWAK]===

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

* LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

* Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

===[https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates Grimco substrates]===
* Various materials like aluminum, magnetic, and sign blanks
* Including [https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-651-intermediate-cal Oracal vinyl]

===[https://signwarehouse.com/ Sign Warehouse]===
* including [https://signwarehouse.com/collections/3m-printable-vinyl-wraps-and-supplies 3M printable vinyl]

== Search Keywords ==
Metal Stores

Maker Spaces

2025-12-23T15:35:00Z

Amylee: /* Maps of Maker Spaces */

==Makerspaces by Geography==
Whenever we hear of a space we add it to one of the pages below. Please add ones you find.
* [[Maker Spaces in the US and Canada]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Africa]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Europe]]

==Maps of Maker Spaces==
These are interesting to show the maker spaces on a map. However, they all seem to have different data. So check out each one if you need to find a space near you.

* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/goaAddj1MVvbP4yr9?g_st=i An interactive map with makerspaces and hackerspaces]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces A list of makerspaces and hackerspaces]

Also:

* [https://bit.ly/3dJ2uOm A badge map of makerspaces] from [http://goo.gl/forms/s0NDjkWZB7 Maker-Hacker-Lab-Farms Spaces & Events] a crowd sourced list of makerspaces
* [https://makerspace.com/map/ Make Community Makerspace map]

== Links to lots of other makerspace wikis ==

We've attempted to group the wikis by language, though perhaps with some disputable choices in cases where a wiki contains significant material in more than one language. Tip: If you want to explore a wiki written largely in a language you don't read, note that many web browsers have translation facilities either built in or available as extensions.

===English wikis===
*[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Noisebridge Noisebridge in San Francisco], a wiki that doubles as a main website
*[https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Maker Space]
*[https://wiki.hive13.org wiki.hive13.org ]
*[https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org wiki.pumpingstationone.org ]
*[https://labitat.dk/wiki labitat.dk/wiki] (largely in English, with some Danish)
*[https://256.makerslocal.org/wiki 256.makerslocal.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack ]
*[https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki dallasmakerspace.org/wiki ]
*[https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki www.i3detroit.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.lvl1.org wiki.lvl1.org ]
*[https://wiki.hacdc.org wiki.hacdc.org ]
*[https://wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk ]
*[https://fixme.ch/wiki fixme.ch/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.syn2cat.lu wiki.syn2cat.lu]
*[https://wiki.koeln.ccc.de wiki.koeln.ccc.de] (some parts in English, some in German)
*[https://wiki.munichmakerlab.de wiki.munichmakerlab.de ]
*[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu maker-hub.georgefox.edu ]
*[https://ackspace.nl/wiki ackspace.nl/wiki ]
*[https://www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page] (largely in English, with some Greek)
*[https://wiki.protospace.ca wiki.protospace.ca ]
*[https://wiki.splatspace.org wiki.splatspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.midsouthmakers.org wiki.midsouthmakers.org ]
*[https://wiki.somakeit.org.uk wiki.somakeit.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.hackuarium.ch wiki.hackuarium.ch ]
*[https://wiki.makeict.org wiki.makeict.org ]
*[https://wiki.heatsynclabs.org wiki.heatsynclabs.org ]
*[https://wiki.hackmanhattan.com wiki.hackmanhattan.com ]
*[https://wiki.tinkermill.org wiki.tinkermill.org ]
*[https://wiki.rlab.org.uk wiki.rlab.org.uk ]
*[https://familab.org/wiki familab.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.freesideatlanta.org wiki.freesideatlanta.org ]
*[https://makerspace.tulane.edu makerspace.tulane.edu ]
*[https://wiki.hackpgh.org wiki.hackpgh.org ]
*[https://wiki.claremontmakerspace.org wiki.claremontmakerspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.knoxmakers.org wiki.knoxmakers.org ]
*[https://makernexuswiki.com makernexuswiki.com ]
*[https://wiki.telavivmakers.org wiki.telavivmakers.org] (largely in English, with some Hebrew)
*[https://wiki.sshchicago.org wiki.sshchicago.org ]
*[https://wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com ]
*[https://wiki.nycresistor.com wiki.nycresistor.com ]

===French wikis===
*[https://wiki.fablabs.quebec wiki.fablabs.quebec ]

===Dutch wikis ===
*[https://revspace.nl/Main_Page revspace.nl/Main_Page ]
*[https://frack.nl/wiki frack.nl/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl ]
*[https://bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina ]

===German wikis===
*[http://wiki.hrw-fablab.de wiki.hrw-fablab.de ]
*[https://wiki.attraktor.org wiki.attraktor.org ]
*[https://entropia.de entropia.de ]
*[https://wiki.chaosdorf.de wiki.chaosdorf.de ]
*[https://wiki.fablab-luebeck.de wiki.fablab-luebeck.de ]
*[https://hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki ]

===Norwegian wikis===
*[https://wiki.bitraf.no/wiki wiki.bitraf.no/wiki ]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-12-23T15:32:21Z

Amylee: /* Florida */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://doubleunion.org/ Double Union] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] - Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]] - Emeryville
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]] - Oakland
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hackerspace]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

MN Laser Cutters

2025-10-15T17:41:02Z

Amylee: /* Laser Cutters Reference */

[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Clean Shop]]

[[File:mn-bosslaser.jpeg|400px|100W laser cutters]]
[[File:mn-epilog.jpeg|400px|45W laser cutter]]

Our [[Laser Cutters|laser cutters]] are one of the most used tools because it's fast and accurate to cut out your designs. In our facility, you will first set up your design in a vector program like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDRAW. If working with the lower power [[Epilog Helix]], you will "print" your design from the attached computer. Our other two 100W lasers use Lightburn to set the carving order and power settings.

== Laser Cutters Reference ==
* [[Epilog Helix]] - 45W, 18x24" (450x600 mm); practical size 17x23" (430x590 mm)
* [[BossLaser LS2440]] - 100W, 24x40" (600x1000 mm); practical size 23x39" (590x980 mm)
* [[Red Laser]] - 100W, 19.6x27.5" (500x700 mm); practical size 19x27" (480x690 mm)

==Filters==
3 BOFA HEPA filters

==Air Compressors==

== Recommended CO2 Laser cutter / Engraver settings ==

=== Boss Laser 100W ===

The following is extracted from a historical
[https://web.archive.org/web/20210414201911/https://www.bosslaser.com/laser-settings/ page]
on the Boss Laser for 100W settings

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|ACRYLIC - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || ANY
|-
|ACRYLIC - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Anodized Aluminum - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || ANY
|-
|Balsa Wood - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Balsa Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Bass Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Bass Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Birch Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Wood - Cutting || 70 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Birch Plywood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Plywood - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Cardboard - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Cardboard - Cutting || 60 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Ceramic - Engraving || 40 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Glass - Engraving || 25 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Granite - Engraving || 25 || 275 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Engraving || 18 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Powder-coated Metal - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Mirror - Back-side; Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Paper - Cutting || 15 || 25 || N/A || 1/100"
|-
|Romark - Multi-colored; Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Foam - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/4"
|}

=== Member Settings ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|CARDBOARD - C Flute || 45, 35 || 65 || - || 3mm
|-
|PAPER - Cardstock || 10 || 65 || - || 80 lb
|-
|PAPER - Linen paper || 15 || 65 || - || Thick
|-
|}

==Software==
See [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Lightburn Lighburn]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-10-07T15:50:00Z

Amylee: /* East Bay */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://doubleunion.org/ Double Union] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] - Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]] - Emeryville
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]] - Oakland
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-10-07T15:49:35Z

Amylee: /* East Bay */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://doubleunion.org/ Double Union] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] in Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]] - Emeryville
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]] - Oakland
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-10-07T15:48:31Z

Amylee: /* East Bay */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://doubleunion.org/ Double Union] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] in Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]] - Emeryville
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]]
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces

2025-09-29T19:05:51Z

Amylee: /* Maps of Maker Spaces */

==Makerspaces by Geography==
Whenever we hear of a space we add it to one of the pages below. Please add ones you find.
* [[Maker Spaces in the US and Canada]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Africa]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Europe]]

==Maps of Maker Spaces==
These are interesting to show the maker spaces on a map. However, they all seem to have different data. So check out each one if you need to find a space near you.

* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/goaAddj1MVvbP4yr9?g_st=i An interactive map with makerspaces and hackerspaces]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces A list of makerspaces and hackerspaces]

Also:

* [https://bit.ly/3dJ2uOm A badge map of makerspaces] from [http://goo.gl/forms/s0NDjkWZB7 Maker-Hacker-Lab-Farms Spaces & Events] a crowd sourced list of makerspaces

== Links to lots of other makerspace wikis ==

We've attempted to group the wikis by language, though perhaps with some disputable choices in cases where a wiki contains significant material in more than one language. Tip: If you want to explore a wiki written largely in a language you don't read, note that many web browsers have translation facilities either built in or available as extensions.

===English wikis===
*[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Noisebridge Noisebridge in San Francisco], a wiki that doubles as a main website
*[https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Maker Space]
*[https://wiki.hive13.org wiki.hive13.org ]
*[https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org wiki.pumpingstationone.org ]
*[https://labitat.dk/wiki labitat.dk/wiki] (largely in English, with some Danish)
*[https://256.makerslocal.org/wiki 256.makerslocal.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack ]
*[https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki dallasmakerspace.org/wiki ]
*[https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki www.i3detroit.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.lvl1.org wiki.lvl1.org ]
*[https://wiki.hacdc.org wiki.hacdc.org ]
*[https://wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk ]
*[https://fixme.ch/wiki fixme.ch/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.syn2cat.lu wiki.syn2cat.lu]
*[https://wiki.koeln.ccc.de wiki.koeln.ccc.de] (some parts in English, some in German)
*[https://wiki.munichmakerlab.de wiki.munichmakerlab.de ]
*[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu maker-hub.georgefox.edu ]
*[https://ackspace.nl/wiki ackspace.nl/wiki ]
*[https://www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page] (largely in English, with some Greek)
*[https://wiki.protospace.ca wiki.protospace.ca ]
*[https://wiki.splatspace.org wiki.splatspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.midsouthmakers.org wiki.midsouthmakers.org ]
*[https://wiki.somakeit.org.uk wiki.somakeit.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.hackuarium.ch wiki.hackuarium.ch ]
*[https://wiki.makeict.org wiki.makeict.org ]
*[https://wiki.heatsynclabs.org wiki.heatsynclabs.org ]
*[https://wiki.hackmanhattan.com wiki.hackmanhattan.com ]
*[https://wiki.tinkermill.org wiki.tinkermill.org ]
*[https://wiki.rlab.org.uk wiki.rlab.org.uk ]
*[https://familab.org/wiki familab.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.freesideatlanta.org wiki.freesideatlanta.org ]
*[https://makerspace.tulane.edu makerspace.tulane.edu ]
*[https://wiki.hackpgh.org wiki.hackpgh.org ]
*[https://wiki.claremontmakerspace.org wiki.claremontmakerspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.knoxmakers.org wiki.knoxmakers.org ]
*[https://makernexuswiki.com makernexuswiki.com ]
*[https://wiki.telavivmakers.org wiki.telavivmakers.org] (largely in English, with some Hebrew)
*[https://wiki.sshchicago.org wiki.sshchicago.org ]
*[https://wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com ]
*[https://wiki.nycresistor.com wiki.nycresistor.com ]

===French wikis===
*[https://wiki.fablabs.quebec wiki.fablabs.quebec ]

===Dutch wikis ===
*[https://revspace.nl/Main_Page revspace.nl/Main_Page ]
*[https://frack.nl/wiki frack.nl/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl ]
*[https://bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina ]

===German wikis===
*[http://wiki.hrw-fablab.de wiki.hrw-fablab.de ]
*[https://wiki.attraktor.org wiki.attraktor.org ]
*[https://entropia.de entropia.de ]
*[https://wiki.chaosdorf.de wiki.chaosdorf.de ]
*[https://wiki.fablab-luebeck.de wiki.fablab-luebeck.de ]
*[https://hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki ]

===Norwegian wikis===
*[https://wiki.bitraf.no/wiki wiki.bitraf.no/wiki ]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces

2025-09-29T19:05:23Z

Amylee: /* Maps of Maker Spaces */

==Makerspaces by Geography==
Whenever we hear of a space we add it to one of the pages below. Please add ones you find.
* [[Maker Spaces in the US and Canada]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Africa]]
* [[Maker Spaces in Europe]]

==Maps of Maker Spaces==
These are interesting to show the maker spaces on a map. However, they all seem to have different data. So check out each one if you need to find a space near you.

* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/goaAddj1MVvbP4yr9?g_st=i An interactive map with makerspaces and hackerspaces]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces A map with some makerspaces and hackerspaces]

Also:

* [https://bit.ly/3dJ2uOm A badge map of makerspaces] from [http://goo.gl/forms/s0NDjkWZB7 Maker-Hacker-Lab-Farms Spaces & Events] a crowd sourced list of makerspaces

== Links to lots of other makerspace wikis ==

We've attempted to group the wikis by language, though perhaps with some disputable choices in cases where a wiki contains significant material in more than one language. Tip: If you want to explore a wiki written largely in a language you don't read, note that many web browsers have translation facilities either built in or available as extensions.

===English wikis===
*[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Noisebridge Noisebridge in San Francisco], a wiki that doubles as a main website
*[https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Maker Space]
*[https://wiki.hive13.org wiki.hive13.org ]
*[https://wiki.pumpingstationone.org wiki.pumpingstationone.org ]
*[https://labitat.dk/wiki labitat.dk/wiki] (largely in English, with some Danish)
*[https://256.makerslocal.org/wiki 256.makerslocal.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/NottingHack ]
*[https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki dallasmakerspace.org/wiki ]
*[https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki www.i3detroit.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.lvl1.org wiki.lvl1.org ]
*[https://wiki.hacdc.org wiki.hacdc.org ]
*[https://wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk wiki.richmondmakerlabs.uk ]
*[https://fixme.ch/wiki fixme.ch/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.syn2cat.lu wiki.syn2cat.lu]
*[https://wiki.koeln.ccc.de wiki.koeln.ccc.de] (some parts in English, some in German)
*[https://wiki.munichmakerlab.de wiki.munichmakerlab.de ]
*[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu maker-hub.georgefox.edu ]
*[https://ackspace.nl/wiki ackspace.nl/wiki ]
*[https://www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page www.hackerspace.gr/wiki/Main_Page] (largely in English, with some Greek)
*[https://wiki.protospace.ca wiki.protospace.ca ]
*[https://wiki.splatspace.org wiki.splatspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.midsouthmakers.org wiki.midsouthmakers.org ]
*[https://wiki.somakeit.org.uk wiki.somakeit.org.uk ]
*[https://wiki.hackuarium.ch wiki.hackuarium.ch ]
*[https://wiki.makeict.org wiki.makeict.org ]
*[https://wiki.heatsynclabs.org wiki.heatsynclabs.org ]
*[https://wiki.hackmanhattan.com wiki.hackmanhattan.com ]
*[https://wiki.tinkermill.org wiki.tinkermill.org ]
*[https://wiki.rlab.org.uk wiki.rlab.org.uk ]
*[https://familab.org/wiki familab.org/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.freesideatlanta.org wiki.freesideatlanta.org ]
*[https://makerspace.tulane.edu makerspace.tulane.edu ]
*[https://wiki.hackpgh.org wiki.hackpgh.org ]
*[https://wiki.claremontmakerspace.org wiki.claremontmakerspace.org ]
*[https://wiki.knoxmakers.org wiki.knoxmakers.org ]
*[https://makernexuswiki.com makernexuswiki.com ]
*[https://wiki.telavivmakers.org wiki.telavivmakers.org] (largely in English, with some Hebrew)
*[https://wiki.sshchicago.org wiki.sshchicago.org ]
*[https://wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com wiki.rockfordmakerspace.com ]
*[https://wiki.nycresistor.com wiki.nycresistor.com ]

===French wikis===
*[https://wiki.fablabs.quebec wiki.fablabs.quebec ]

===Dutch wikis ===
*[https://revspace.nl/Main_Page revspace.nl/Main_Page ]
*[https://frack.nl/wiki frack.nl/wiki ]
*[https://wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl ]
*[https://bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina bitlair.nl/Hoofdpagina ]

===German wikis===
*[http://wiki.hrw-fablab.de wiki.hrw-fablab.de ]
*[https://wiki.attraktor.org wiki.attraktor.org ]
*[https://entropia.de entropia.de ]
*[https://wiki.chaosdorf.de wiki.chaosdorf.de ]
*[https://wiki.fablab-luebeck.de wiki.fablab-luebeck.de ]
*[https://hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki ]

===Norwegian wikis===
*[https://wiki.bitraf.no/wiki wiki.bitraf.no/wiki ]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-09-26T20:07:26Z

Amylee: /* SF City */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://doubleunion.org/ Double Union] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] in Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]]
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]]
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-09-26T20:06:32Z

Amylee: /* SF City */

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [[Double Union]] - SF. Makerspace centered on women, nonbinary, and transmasc.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] in Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]]
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]]
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2025-09-17T03:51:26Z

Amylee:

We have a little [[MN Retail|supplies store]] near the Main Entrance, but you will of course need more! Here is a list of local and online sources for materials and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.

== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.
* [https://makerstock.com Makerstock] sells all kinds of materials.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded.
* '''Cast''' has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect.
* '''Extruded''' works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet.
* '''Cast''' has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering.
* '''Extruded''' comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

''Note: be sure to clarify if plastics are laserable if you intend to laser cut them at Maker Nexus!''

===[https://www.calsakplastics.com Calsak Plastics]===
* Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle, etc.

===[http://www.delviesplastics.com Delvie's Plastics]===
* Online store
* Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips.
* Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials

===[https://houstonacrylic.com/ Houston Acrylic]===
* Specializes in laserable materials

===[https://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]===
* San Francisco, etc.
* 33340 Central Avenue, Union City CA 94587
* 510-746-2200
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM

===[https://www.professionalplastics.com Professional Plastics]===
* 2175 Kruse Dr., San Jose, CA 95131-1214
* 408-434-9410, 800-523-2807
* Mon-Fri: 8AM-5PM

===[https://portplastics.com Port Plastics]===
* 550 E. Trimble Road #A, San Jose, CA 95131
* 408-571-2231
* Mon-Fri: 7AM-4PM

===[https://www.tapplastics.com TAP Plastics]===
* Fremont, San Jose, San Leandro, San Mateo, San Francisco, etc.
* A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded.
* Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic products that are not laser safe.
* Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.
* San Jose store:
** 1212 The Alameda, San Jose, CA 95126
** 408-292-8685
** Mon-Fri 8:30AM-5:30PM
** Sat: 9AM-5PM

===[https://www.usplastic.com U.S. Plastic]===
* Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
* Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
* PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping
* 800-537-9724

== Wood & Veneers ==

===[https://www.brucebauer.com Bruce Bauer Lumber & Supply]===
* 134 San Antonio Circle, Mountain View, CA 94040
* They will cut boards down for you (so long as the remainder of the board is sufficiently long)
* Mon-Fri 7AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-4:30PM

===[https://exoticwoodzone.com/ Exotic Wood Zone]===
* Interesting woods such as guitar wood

===[https://www.globalwoodsource.com Global Wood Source]===
* 180 East Sunnyoaks Ave Building #3, Campbell, CA 95008
* Mon-Fri 9AM-4PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://hardwoods-inc.com/hardwoods-san-jose/ Hardwoods San Jose (aka Aura Hardwoods)]===
* San Jose and online
* 620 Quinn Ave, San Jose, CA, 95112
* Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods.
* If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
* They are cool with you breaking down lumber in their parking lot and their carts make an OK workbench
* They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN.
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.
Mon-Fri 8AM-4PM

===[https://makernexuswiki.com/index.php?title=Supply_Sources&action=edit The Home Depot]===
* Sunnyvale and many locations
* Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.
* The Sunnyvale location has great Endesa sanded plywood (Sandeply) and has been reliably flat
* Mon-Sat 6AM-10PM
* Sun 7AM-8PM

===[https://www.macbeath.com Macbeath Hardwood]===
* 930 Ashby Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-4:30PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://mayanhardwood.com Mayan Hardwood]===
* Oxnard, Paso Robles.

===[https://moorenewton.com Moore Newton]===
* 2115 Williams St, San Leandro, CA 94577
* Mon-Fri 8AM-4:30PM
* They will do some cutting of lumber for you, but you can also cut it yourself in the parking lot
* They will do delivery to MN
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===[https://ocoochhardwoods.com Ocooch Hardwoods]===
* Viola, WI

===[https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/san-carlos Woodcraft]===
* 40 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
* Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut
* Carries their Wood River brand of tools
* Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM
* Sat 9AM-5PM
* Sun 11AM-4PM

== Wood CNC and Tools ==

===[https://www.freudtools.com Freud]===
* End mills and other bits
* Lots of [https://www.freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/joinery joinery bits]

===[https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com Whiteside Machine Company]===
* End mills and other bits for CNC and routers

== Wood Services ==

=== Sharpening and Honing ===

Sharpening and honing for chisels, saw blades, and more.

* [https://acmesawshop.com/ Acme Saw Shop]

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

====[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]====
* These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

* This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
* There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==

===[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply (IMS)]===
* 569 Charcot Ave. San Jose, CA 95131
* Formerly Campbell Metal
* Full-range metal supplier. Large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum).

===[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metal San Jose]===
* 1800 Monterey Highway, San Jose, CA 95112
* Scrap metal buyer and reseller.
* Mon-Fri 7AM-4PM
* Sat 8AM-12PM

===[https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city Alan Steel Redwood City]===
* 505 E Bayshore Rd Redwood City, CA 94063
* Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials.
* Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.
* Mon-Thu 8AM-4PM

===[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets]===
* 2413 Zanker Rd, San Jose, CA 95131
* A franchise.
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-1PM

===[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum, Inc.]===
* Hayward, Fresno, etc.
* 30551 Huntwood Avenue, Hayward, CA 94544

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==

===[http://fabworks.com Fabworks]===
* On-demand sheet metal services.
* Laser Cutting, Bending, Hardware, Countersinking, Tapping, and Powder Coating for Aluminum, Steel, and Stainless sheet metal.
* Upload a .STEP file (e.g. output from OnShape or Fusion 360), and get instant quotes (with excellent prices). Turnaround time is quick, and there's free shipping too.

===[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send]===
* You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote.
They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

===[https://www.xometry.com/ Xometry]===

== Paper and Cardboard ==

===[https://kellyspicers.com Kelly Spicers (was Kelly Paper)]===
* San Jose, Palo Alto
* Wide selection of paper stock, corrugated cardboard, paperboard
* Also foam, cardboard sheets and boxes, packing materials
* Words well on our laser cutters, hot wire cutter
* Thick linen paper is really nice to cut
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-5PM

== 3D printer filament ==

===[https://www.esun3d.com/ eSun]===

Available directly from them and on Amazon. PLA+ and PETG+ have been very reliable. Packaging is good.

===[https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers]===

===[https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/ Prusament]===

PLA, PTEG are reliable

===[https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/filament Printed Solid]===

Sells Prusament and Jessie

== Electronics Parts ==

===LED strips===
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=meijiajia+led+neon+strip+lights&crid=12E4VSKLOUF2Y&sprefix=meijiajia%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_9 Neon LED strips], like the one used in our "[https://app.amilia.com/store/en/makernexus/shop/activities/5776275 Make an LED Neon Sign]" class
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cuttable+12V+LED+strip&crid=36ISWSZ4II4AD&sprefix=cuttable+12v+led+stri%2Caps%2C150&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Cuttable 12V LED strip lighting]

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

===[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso]===

===[https://www.mcmaster.com McMaster Carr]===
The world of all the fasteners you didn't know you needed including:
* Machine screws, including metric screws
* Thumb screws
* Metal rods
* Springs, pins, and anchors
* Magnets
* Pipe adapters
* Tools

== Sewing, Quilting, Textiles ==

===[https://allstitch.com/ AllStitch]===

===[https://rnk-floriani.com/ Floriani]===

===[https://redrockthreads.com/ Red Rock Threads]===

===[https://mobile.sewmanyparts.com/ Sew Many Parts]===
* Good Madeira thread

== Embroidery Designs==

===[https://emblibrary.com/# Embroidery Library]===

===[https://urbanthreads.com/index.php# Urban Threads]===

===[https://www.wawak.com/ WAWAK]===

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

* LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

* Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

===[https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates Grimco substrates]===
* Various materials like aluminum, magnetic, and sign blanks
* Including [https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-651-intermediate-cal Oracal vinyl]

===[https://signwarehouse.com/ Sign Warehouse]===
* including [https://signwarehouse.com/collections/3m-printable-vinyl-wraps-and-supplies 3M printable vinyl]

User:DanClemmensen/Proposed Main page

2025-09-17T03:49:53Z

Amylee:

__NOTOC__
'''Maker Nexus''' is a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace Maker space] in Sunnyvale, California. This Wiki provides information about Maker Nexus, and also about making in the South Bay and making in general. The main contributors to this wiki are members of Maker Nexus, however anyone in the world wide community is welcome to help. If you'd like to contribute, please [[Special:RequestAccount|sign up for a FREE account]]. Once you've created an account we will give you access to edit and add to this wiki. (Note that right now only admins can change this home page. If you want to change the home page, just [[User_talk:Jschrempp| message us]] and we will get it set up.) If you need to practice your wiki editing skill - it's easy once you get used to it - try this [[sandbox page]].

This is an open wiki for makers. It is also the repository of public information about '''[[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Maker Nexus' makerspace in Sunnyvale, California. We document a lot of our organization in this wiki. Read about us here.]]'''

This wiki is about fabrication and making and a bit of hacking. It covers tools, techniques, materials, settings, and sources. Frankly, we set it up so that we wouldn't forget all the good things we have learned through hard work and getting help from our friends. Everyone is welcome to use our information.

==Major Areas==
{| style="width:80%;" cellpadding="10"
| style="width:40%;" |
| style="width:50%;" |
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
|
===Tools and Tips===
* [[Laser Cutter]]
* [[3D Printing and Modeling]]
* [[Mold Making]]
* [[Vacuum Forming]]
* [[Heatpress]]
* [[Shopbot and Tormak]]
* [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]]
* [[Arduino]]
* [[Particle.io]] (formerly Spark.io)
* [[Raspberry Pi]]
* [[Chromebox]]
* [[Sumobots]]

|
===Maker Nexus===
* [[Maker Nexus Makerspace]] in Sunnyvale, California

===Maker Spaces and Resources===
* [[Why do we need makerspaces?]]
* [[Maker Spaces|Locate a maker space in your area]]
* [[Starting a Maker Space|How to start your own community maker space]]
* [[Businesses offering discounts]] to ex TS members building their own shop
* [[Curriculum for Makers|Ideas for Classes]]

===More Stuff===
* [[Member Projects]] - tell us about what you've made
* [[Other Stuff]] - a place to start new areas of information. If you have some good info but don't know where to put it, then dump it here and someone will figure out where to put it in this wiki.

|}

==About This Wiki==

* [[Who we are]]

* [[Shrimpware Wiki|This wiki seems weird...]]

If you want to contribute but don't know how to edit a mediawiki, then you might consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide]. Or contact [[User talk:Jschrempp|Jim Schrempp]] and he will help you get started.

[[Terms of Service]]

Laser Cutters

2025-09-17T03:49:34Z

Amylee:

{{About|general laser-cutting tools and tips|the laser cutters at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA|[[MN Laser Cutters]]}}

= What do laser cutters do? =

Laser cutters used focused energy beams to literally burn away materials like paper, cardboard, plywood, leather, metal tumblers, and laser-safe acrylic. When done right, you can barely etch the surface for rasterized designs, or you can cleanly cut through the material without setting it on fire. (The art of the laser is basically controlled burning.)

= Safety considerations =

There are more [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/MN_Safety safety considerations] than what's listed here. But these are some things we have learned:

== In general ==

* '''Safety should be the most important priority.''' Always look at the machines and the work area. Don't distract people when they are actively cutting. If something doesn't feel right, stop. If you need help, ask someone or a staff member.
* '''Do not walk away from an active cut.''' If a machine is running, stay close to it.
* '''Fires happen very fast.''' Always have the spray bottle of water near your hands, and know how to pause/cancel the job. Don't play with your phone or turn your back on the laser.
* '''Don't rush or work when tired.''' You may miss safety checks.
** Stay hydrated
** Stay focused
** Plan your restroom breaks

== Hazards from laser energy ==

You can't actually see our lasers---they use infrared light. When the machines are operating you must keep the lids down because the high energy can be harmful. (It is safe to look at the laser through the lids.) However, there ''is'' a visible locator dot created by a second laser pointer.

== Hazards from fire ==

This section should really be named "hazards from ''too much fire''". (Laser cutting works by setting things on fire.) It is totally expected that the material you are cutting will emit a small flame, but the flame should be extinguished almost immediately.

A fire that is allowed to burn uncontrolled risks damaging your work, destroying the machine, or putting the facility (and its people) at risk.

* If the '''flame doesn't go out''' you must put it out, even before running for help.
** Have a water bottle in your hands at all times so you can extinguish the flames.
** If the flames don't go out, stop the cut immediately on the control panel.
** Failing that, grab the emergency smothering blanket and throw it over the whole bed to snuff the flames.
** Failing that, grab the fire extinguisher, pull the pin, shoot the base of the fire (not the flame part).
** In all cases where the flame became large, immediately contact the [[MOD]]!

== Hazards from smoke ==

Smoke is the visible burned particles thrown into the air. Do not breathe the particles in.

* After you are done a cut, leave the lid down so the air filter can clean the chamber for a few seconds.
* Too much smoke in the chamber can coat and damage the equipment including the laser lens, the mirrors, and the motors.
* Be sure the compressed air is functioning so smoke doesn't enter the lens head.

== Hazards from fumes ==

Fumes are the gasses you can't see. All materials when cut will emit some gasses. In a maker space such as ours we have strict rules on "bad gasses" that can cause a lot of harm to your health or the equipment.

We have air filters on the lasers, but they cannot filter out many "bad gasses" and there's only a certain amount of fumes the filters can handle at any one time.

* Never cut a material you aren't absolutely sure about.
** Ordering cheap materials through online stores sometimes results in them sending you a material that looks like what you wanted but is actually made of things we don't allow.
** Check the [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]] page for reputable suppliers
* Never cut painted materials since those plastics and pigments can release toxic gasses.
* Don't cut glue. MDF is mostly glue!
* Only cut laser-safe acrylic; other plastics can emit toxic or corrosive gasses.
* Only cut polyethylene foam you are sure is pure PE foam. Polyurethane (PU) foam will create hydrochloric acid which will eat the machine from the inside. And your lungs.

== Hazards from small parts ==

Be careful when cutting small parts. They may not separate in the cutting process and create a fire hazard.

== Hazards from shiny materials ==

Anything reflective can bounce the laser beam back up into the lens which will overheat and destroy the lens. Lens are hundreds of dollars.

== Hazards from warping materials ==

Thin materials like paper may get blown around the chamber. Cardboard tends to warp and pull up.

* Tape or weight down materials so they don't move. Blue painters tape works fantastic.
* A material that tips up can get caught in the mechanism.

== Hazards from the bed being too high ==

The laser head can literally crash into the bed rails. Be sure to focus and align the laser beams, which usually keeps a good gap off of your materials. If the head does run into the rails it can bend the mechanisms or damage the bed.

[[File:laser-with-weight.jpeg|thumb|Laser over plywood with a metal weight]]

== Hazards from non-flat materials ==

Anything that pokes up can catch the head. That can misalign the head or the mirrors.

* Make sure the head will cleanly pass over your material
* Watch for long pieces you cut out that might tip up to the head
* When using weights, doing a "framing pass" and place weights outside the cutting boundary. Do this more than once.

= Different Machines =

[[Laser Manufacturers]] list (and associated equipment) with any notes we have.

= Technology =

[https://www.ophiropt.com/co2-lasers-optics/focusing-lens/knowledge-center/tutorial/cutting-head-optics An interesting explanation of the optics] involved in laser cutters.

Parallax Technology offers [https://www.parallax-tech.com/faq.htm a collection of tips and info] about laser cutting physics.

= How To =

* Test to determine the correct focal distance for your laser [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg6THrEdleo video]

*A [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX4wA5KhEX6o8zZkHnPthUQ YouTube channel] with a lot of videos. Specializing in board game enhancements.

* Create [https://tjltjl.github.io/plycutter/ 2D files for laser cutting from a 3D model] in STL format.

* Better engraving in wood [https://youtu.be/T8op5kIeTcs?t=62 by using Borax]

* Make the design for a box with a free [https://en.makercase.com/#/ online tool]

* A very flexible Python program to make all kinds of different boxes, hinges, the scope of what it will do is really interesting [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py]

= Techniques =

== Wood Staining ==

Use Minwax Water Based Wood Stain to color the wood before cutting. Available everywhere, including Ace Hardware stores. They add tint just like they would with a paint. I ignore the colors in the samples on the shelf. I asked to see the colors in the tint machine, there are about a dozen. For my red, I use the red tint straight, no other colors. The stuff works great. I brush it on with a foam brush, then wipe it with a cotton rag.

== Cut for [[Vacuum_Forming|Vacuum_Forming]] ==

I cut a 3 inch medallion positive to use in laser forming. I cut it out of 6mm Baltic Birch plywood. I set the 3d Stamp mode in the driver to Shoulder 45, Widening 0. This gave great relief. On the 120w laser I used 400 DPI, speed 40, power 90, Stucki, bottom up. I did two passes.

== Fitting Parts to a Sheet ==

=== SVGNest ===

Sometimes you have a lot of irregular shapes you want to cut. Maximizing the use of a piece of material can be tough. The demo on this site is pretty cool: http://svgnest.com/   It's open souce, source found here: https://github.com/Jack000/SVGnest

I haven't tried SVGNest yet, but the sample images on his page are impressive.

== Joints ==

Mortise and Tenon [https://hackaday.com/2023/12/04/this-laser-cut-one-piece-wedge-tenon-locks-wood-joints-tight/ on a laser cutter]

Rotating joint idea

[[File:Rotating laser joint.png|200px]]

== Sudo 3D ==

This web site shows a technique to create nice 3D chess pieces. He cuts the front profile then a bounding box. Then he rotates the piece 90 degrees to cut the other profiles. The results are very interesting. [http://imgur.com/a/Rt8kz http://imgur.com/a/Rt8kz]   Thanks to Bruce for finding this.

== Working with Inkscape and the Epilog Helix ==

=== The basics ===
* "Objects" in Inkscape can be created in several forms:
# Object "primitives" (my term) -- the objects that you can draw using the tools on the left hand side of the Inkscape window -- these include rectangles, ovals, polygons, and text strings;
# "Stroke" objects -- the objects that you create when using the pen tool -- either lines or Bezier curves; and
# "Path" objects. As far as I know, you cannot create path objects directly, but you can convert other objects to paths using "Path | Object to Path" and "Path | Stroke to Path". If you use "Path | Trace Bitmap" to convert a pixel (raster) image to a vector drawing, the result is a stroke object.

* KEY CONCEPT: you MUST convert all objects that you want the Epilog laser to cut/engrave into "Path" objects.
** Select the object and use "Path | Object to Path" or "Path | Stroke to Path", as appropriate. If you don't perform these conversions, the objects will be ignored by the laser cutter!
** You can test that the object has been converted to a path by using the node editor tool (on the left toolbar below the select pointer). You should see a whole bunch of nodes that represent the path around the selected object. Another good test is to select "View | Display Mode | Outline" to clearly see the defined paths.
** After converting all of your objects to paths, use "Object | Fill and Stroke" to designate vector cutting/engraving (no fill, stroke line width = 0.001") or raster engraving (fill the object with black color and no stroke or stroke greater than 0.001").

=== Techniques ===

'''To vector cut/engrave''' an object or text: place the object in the workspace. Select the object with the arrow pointer. Then: "Path | Object to Path". Next, select "Fill and Stroke" and make sure that there is no fill and that lines are solid and 0.001" wide. The difference between vector cutting and vector engraving is in the driver settings and not the Inkscape file.

'''To raster engrave''' an object or text: place the object in the workspace. Select the object with the arrow pointer. Then: "Path | Object to Path". Next, select "Fill and Stroke" and make sure that there is a solid fill and no stroke (or stroke greater than 0.001"). The depth of the raster engraving is in the driver settings and not the Inkscape file.

'''To align objects''' inside of other objects (e.g. to center vertically): Select both objects and use "Object | Align and Distribute"

'''To both vector engrave and vector cut within one project''', select different colors for the cut objects and for the engraved objects. Make sure to note the full RGB settings for your color(s). In the Epilog driver, use the Color Mapping tab. Make sure to check the box to enable color mapping, select the color (double check that the RGB for the selected color are exactly what you set for the object in Inkscape), enter the settings and use the right arrow by the settings to transfer the settings into the color table. Each color can have different settings for the laser. The per color settings of raster/vector/both do not specify that the entire color will be rastered or vectored - that is determined by the width of the line in your Inkscape file. Any color that is not set in the color settings will use the default vector/raster settings on the main driver tab.

Settings that work well with 3 mm birch plywood are:

* Raster engraving: raster speed = 30%, raster power = 75%.

* Vector engraving: vector speed = 50%, vector power = 50%, vector frequency = 2500 Hz.

* Vector cutting: vector speed = 20%, vector power = 90%, vector frequency = 2500 Hz.

'''Making a box''' with the Inkscape TABBED BOX extension.
See the document on the MN Member Google Drive, at:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1btpuTFqOBQuDYE213z-sIyOjfjcpTbVC/view?usp=sharing

== Air Assist ==
Why do you need air blowing on the lasered area? Air assist is just a steady flow of air to blow smoke and cutting residue away from the beam path and optics of a laser cutter. It’s simple, but critical; without it, smoke can obscure and reflect the laser beam, foul lenses and mirrors, and severely degrade cut quality. An interesting test of [https://hackaday.io/project/179362-laser-air-assist-shootout different air sources].

= Materials =

[https://www.ponoko.com/blog/materials/10-great-materials-for-laser-cutting/ Ponoko] has a fun list of 10 great materials to laser.

== Baltic Birch Plywood ==
It comes in 5x5 foot sheets 3mm (1/8th inch) for about $18. I have them cut the boards into 24 inch strips so that they fit in my car. I then cut the strips into 24x18 panels at TechShop. The price per panel is about $2.50. It also comes in 6mm sheets. These prices are from 2014 at the now defunct Southern Lumber. We've found a supplier on the web: [http://ocoochhardwoods.com/plywood.php Ocooch Hardwoods] I've found that the glue in this plywood makes it harder to cut than plain wood. There are also some hidden hard spots in the plywood. I have to cut at a slower speed or else I'll have some places that do not cut through.
*Settings for 3mm 45watt: speed 8, power 90, frequency 500. If the laser is really clean then speed can go up to 12.
*Settings for 6mm
Another source for Birch Ply is Mayan Hardwoods In Paso Robles. [http://www.mayanhardwood.com/ http://www.mayanhardwood.com/] Mayan carries a full line of hardwood plywood and regular hardwood lumber by the board foot. They do not have a cutting service for sheets of plywood. They do have a chop saw to cut board down. They have the Baltic Birch in 5' X 5' sheets in both 1/8" (3 mm) and 1/4" (6 mm).<br/>They also have Birch Plywood in 4' X 8' sheets. The 5 X 5 sheets are a much better quality than the 4 X 8 sheets.<br/><br/>They offer contractor prices<br/>
*Birch 1/8" 5 X 5 sheets for $17.77
*Birch 1/4" 5 X 5 sheets for $21.45
Mayan also has Oak 1/8"; and 1/4" plywood in 4' X 8' sheets.

== Acrylic ==
Also known as Plexiglas. It comes in several thicknesses; usually specified in English units (1/8, 1/4) but actually manufactured in metric (3mm, 6mm). It is easy to laser cut with a nice finish on the cut edges. Etching also produces nice effects. While extruded is cheaper, we highly recommend cast acrylic for your projects.

=== Cast Acrylic ===
Has a paper protective layer stuck to it with rubber cement. You can etch and cut through the paper. Has a very consistent thickness across the sheet. Superior etching results. It can warp if left in the sun on the dashboard of a car.

=== Extruded Acrylic ===
Has a blue plastic protective layer. The protective layer is reported to be laser safe but etching through it may not be ideal. May have slight thickness variation across the sheet. If precise thickness is important to your design, you may want to work in smaller pieces, measuring each with calipers and adjusting your design before cutting. Goes soft at a lower temperature than cast acrylic. Is 15% cheaper than cast acrylic.

=== Mirrored Acrylic ===
Mirrored acrylic has a thin reflective layer on one side. The mirror is seen when looking through the acrylic, the other side is a dull matte finish. You cannot cut or etch mirrored acrylic with the reflective side up (towards the laser). You can, however, cut mirrored acrylic with the dull side towards the laser. You can also get some interesting effects by etching the dull side, which removed the mirrored layer from areas.

=== Cement ===
While many glues may hold acrylic for some time, by far the best option is [https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130/296?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt9im_rbB5AIVgv_jBx31xwjwEAQYASABEgLiwvD_BwE acrylic cement]. This is a very thin liquid that wicks into a joint between two pieces of acrylic and dissolves the two pieces to form a very strong molecular bond. The bond requires that the two pieces have good contact between them; the cement does not fill gaps. You should search YouTube for a video on how to use acrylic cement - it is filled with good tips.

You can also use double sided tape or other similar methods.

== Cardboard ==

Generally safe to cut. Use weights in known open spaces to hold down against warping/cupping.

=== C flute corrugated, single wall ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65mm/sec, 45% upper power, 35% lower power

=== Mat board, thick pressed fiberboard ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65mm/sec, 35% upper power, 30% lower power

== Foam ==

Be very careful with foam:

* Use only the foams we have tested below
* Watch for fire very carefully
* Stop immediately if unexpected smells happen
* Check with Mods the first time you cut a specific piece

=== Polyethylene (PE, Expanded PE) ===

It's one of the safer plastic foams because it's carbon with some hydrogen. It feels pretty solid.

_Remember to check the packaging. When ordering online some stores use polyurethane and polyethylene interchangeably._

Suggested settings
* Red Laser
** 35 mm/sec, 25% power, 2 passes, max 1" thick

=== Polyurethane (PU) ===

_DO NOT CUT._ Heating it will release toxic chlorine gas and our filters can't deal with that. It feels spongy.

=== Sources ===
Tap Plastics is a well known supplier of acrylic. They will cut sheets to size while you wait. They also have a scrap bin that is often filled with cheap pieces of acrylic. The scrap bin will also have pieces of other plastics that are not laser safe. If you have a question about the material, ask their helpful staff if the piece you want to by is acrylic.

== Paper ==

Cuts super easy on our lasers unless it's dark paper.

=== Plain paper ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65 mm/sec, 10% power

=== Linen/thick paper ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65 mm/sec, 15% upper power, 10% lower power

== Worbla ==

Feels like plastic, but is laser cutter friendly. One side is sticky. You can heat it with a heat gun and form it like clay. Works great to make costume parts. An internet search for warbla will show a plethora of cool examples.

Worbla activates at 90 C.; I dipped in almost boiling water and was able to easily work it by hand. This is great stuff.

You can buy it at [http://www.cosplaysupplies.com/store.php?s=UN4V CosPlay Supplies.]

You can also [[Make_your_own_Worbla|make your own Worbla]]

= Supplies =

Also see the general [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]] page.

== LaserBits ==
[http://www.laserbits.com/ http://www.laserbits.com/]<br/>I have not purchased from this company yet. Full line of engraving supplies.  They have Color fills and seals. Engrave a piece of acrylic and then use this stuff to fill the engraving with a different color.<br/>[http://www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-pro-color-fill-sealer.html http://www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-pro-color-fill-sealer.html]
== Marking metal and glass ==

=== Learing ===
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emlVbVSWPT0 Video testing different techniques]

=== Thermark ===
You spray this product onto a metal or glass surface, laser it, then wash off the part that was not hit with the laser. I saw this used at TSMP on metal and the result was very good. The woman using it recommended it. I got a 6oz bottle of the spray on Thermark Laser Marking Material LMM14 Black from the manufacturers web site [http://thermark.com Thermark] for $62 plus $11 shipping UPS. Not cheap. My settings: 60W laser, 600 DPI, Stucki, speed 5, power 90.  Anything with less heat left the image susceptible to scratching off.
=== Dry Moly Lube ===

(From [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/laser-moly/ Evil Mad Scientist] web site) A can of "CRC Dry Moly Lube" sells for about $10. Clean your metal with isopropyl alcohol. Spray lube on your metal, let dry. Do this three times. They etched with 20-30% speed (laser power unspecified) which showed a big difference. Clean off the excess lube with alcohol. They say the finished image seems tough. I haven't tried this yet.

[http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?163305-Forget-Cermark-and-Plaster-of-Paris-try-this Sawmill Creek] also has a riff on this technique. He used "Sprayon LU200", 2 coats from 4 inches high. 600 DPI, 3% speed and 100% power, air assist and two passes. He cleaned it by spraying with Krud Kutter and letting it sit for a few minutes.

And... one commentator says that Cermark is so easy to use (one coat, water clean up) and fast to laser that the cost of the good stuff is not significant.

= Interesting Projects =
Things found on the web that would be interesting to try.

[https://www.pinterest.com/richardaky/laser-cut-joint-ideas/ Self locking joints] of all kinds. Good seeds for brainstorming.

[https://youtu.be/JZFbtrG2P48 Highly detailed wood inlay]. Stunning results.

Woodshops

2025-09-17T03:49:15Z

Amylee:

{{About|general woodworking tools and tips|the woodshop at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA|[[MN Woodshop]]}}

= What is a woodshop? =

A woodshop is a space for tools to process wood and soft materials. People bring in materials like plywood, solid lumber, plastics, and foam, and then they use hand and power tools to cut, assemble, and shape the tools.

Products you can make are anything from turned pens or small coasters, to boxes, to furniture and architecture:
* '''Blades''' are used to chip away at materials to cut them apart. Common tools that have blades: saws, coarse files, planers, drills, CNC routers.
* '''Abrasives''' are used to grind materials until they are smooth. Common tools that have abrasives: sandpaper, smooth files, rough paper.
* '''Fasteners''' are used to hold materials together. Permanent fasteners will deform or hook into materials. Temporary fasteners can be loosened for removal. Common fasteners: nails, screws, hooks, clamps, locks, pin nails, staples.
* '''Aligners''' are parts that keep the position of two pieces of material. Common aligners: dowels, tenons, screws, posts, biscuits, dominoes.
* '''Adhesives''' are used to bond materials together. Common adhesives: wood glue, cyanoacrylate (aka CA glue, super glue), tape.
* '''Finishes''' protect the surface and change the appearance for design or durability purposes. Common finishes: stains, paint, urethanes, hard waxes.

But what about lasers? See: [[Laser Cutters]], [[MN Laser Cutters]]

= Safety considerations =

There are more [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/MN_Safety safety considerations] than what's listed here. But these are some things we have learned:

== In general ==

* '''Safety should be the most important priority.''' You cannot rush safety; woodworking just takes time. Always look at the machines and the work area. Don't distract people when they are actively cutting. Don't run or walk fast through the shop. Watch your back when turning around while holding materials. If something doesn't feel right, stop. If you need help, ask someone or a staff member.
* '''Do not walk away from an active cut.''' If a machine is running, stay with it. If you are done, turn it off, wait for it to stop moving, and then you can look away or walk away. If you need to adjust something while the machine is running, consider turning it off. Also, do not distract someone from an active cut unless you absolutely need to grab their attention.
* '''Move slowly and purposefully.''' The floor can be slippery with dust, people may not see/hear you if you walk behind them, and if you are carrying long items you could turn around and hit someone. You may not see someone coming through a door or around a blind corner.
* '''Work within your strength capability.''' Wood materials, composites, and even the tools can very heavy. You can strain or injure yourself by hauling, lifting, or turning things outside of your strength range. Use carts to move heavy things. Use stands to support wobbly ends. Clamps are your friends. Ask for help if you need to, or find another safe way of accomplishing the task.
* '''Don't rush or work when tired.''' You may miss safety checks. Accidents happen when you try to do "just one more cut"—come back tomorrow refreshed.
** Stay hydrated
** Stay focused
** Plan your restroom breaks

== Hazards from cutting ==

Moving blades and rotating bits are connected to very powerful machinery, and almost all of these machines do not have a way to detect that something has gone wrong and shut themselves off. (The one exception is the SawStop.) So as an operator you must be very careful:

* '''No loose clothing near the blade/bit. ''No gloves!'' ''' Most of us wear short sleeve shirts and no jewelry from the elbows down. If a loose thread or a corner of your clothing gets caught then you may be pulled into the machine. Nobody likes splinters or sharp wood edges, but being mindful of rough edges reduces the chance of being poked or cut.
** You can use gloves to move materials and tools, just take them off before turning on a machine. (If a machine grabs a bit of a glove, it will rip it off your hand.)
***This is what emergency departments call a "de-gloving event." It is horrible, so do '''not''' wear gloves when using a machine.
***This is also why you shouldn't wear rings or jewelry, even from around a chain on your neck. (Put them back on after you are done working.)
** The '''SawStop''' does have a brake that will drop the table saw blade if your skin makes contact with the blade. This has saved countless people from deep cuts or worse. However, [[SawStop_Professional_3HP_Table_Saw#Not_completely_safe|''do not rely on the brake'']]. Even if the blade drops, you will still likely get a cut or materials can get snagged and still harm you.
* '''Keep long hair tied back.''' Anything longer than shoulder length can be problematic. It's the same problem of clothes being caught in a machine. Don't turn around too fast near an active machine. Many of us use larger dust masks which help keep long hair in place.
* '''No necklaces.''' Even when tucked into you shirt.
* '''Always wear eye protection.''' The blades and bits throw chips faster than you can react, and they are small and sharp. Choose glasses that wrap around the side of your eyes. Many of us have oversized ones that fit over reading glasses.
* '''Only one person on a machine.''' One person is usually better than two. Woodworking involves subtle movements to move materials around and machines are very loud.
* '''Avoid wearing rings or bracelets.''' If you injure your fingers or hand, swelling may occur, making it impossible to remove the ring—which can lead to more swelling.

== Hazards from saw blades ==

Most of the advice here boils down to:

* Don't touch the blade
* Avoid kickback

Always keep hands and clothing at least 6" from the blade. Table saws and miter saws have colored areas to remind you where you should not put your hands, but it is still up to you to be vigilant.

=== Avoid touching the blade ===

* '''Use a push shoe:''' You hold these to control your work through the blade and keep your hands at a distance. There are thin devices around the shop with a handle, a flat bottom, and a small "heel" to help catch your work. Place on top of the work to apply pressure down and towards the fence.
** People generally do not recommend "chicken foot" push sticks. See next section.
* '''Use a push stick:''' For band saws only, if you need to push a thin piece through the blade, use a small stick. Be aware the stick can catch on the moving blade.
* '''Don't reach across a blade:''' Use the push shoe or a MicroJig. Even if you think you have control, a little kickback or wobble on the work can make you topple into the blade. Even if the SawStop brake engages, your work can still be thrown around.
* '''Use a MicroJig:''' These pushblocks have standoffs to keep them above the blade and a gripping edge on the bottom. They let you hold thin pieces of wood down as you control it over the blade, which keeping your hands inches away. Use the stabilizing foot on the free side of the jig to keep the jig parallel to the table.

=== Avoid kickback ===

We like [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4 this video] to explain how kickback occurs.

* '''Do not use a chicken foot push stick:''' The hazard of kickback occurs because the far side of the work gets picked up by the rapidly spinning blade and thrown up at you. A chicken foot only applies control to the front edge which can let the back edge pivot upwards. Consider using the push shoe instead.
* '''Use a feather board:''' Place the featherboard with the fingers pointing away from you to allow 1-way movement of the wood through the blade. Place before and after the blade if you like to keep the work parallel to the rip fence.
* '''Use a high fence:''' If cutting something tall (such as a rabbets or laps), use a high fence to stabilize the work. That way the bottom edge won't tip at an angle to the blade. For making tenon long sides, this is what you do. ''Be careful to control the work so it doesn't rock forward/backward through the blade.
* '''Use a crosscut sled:''' If cutting something wider than it is long, the crosscut sled will ensure the work passes perpendicular to the blade without twisting.
** '''Clamp tall pieces to the sled:''' For making tenon short sides, this is what you do.
* '''Keep the table surface free of dust and debris:''' With the table saw or band saw stopped, brush/vacuum away large debris. This keeps your surface level and prevents your work catching on a big chunk, which could then tip the work into the blade unexpectedly.

=== Other things ===

* '''Don't leave a blade on the table saw table.''' It'll scratch it and/or damage the blade. The teeth on a saw blade are often 3D so they stick out and are also sharp, so putting the blade down on the table saw can leave small marks. If you're changing a table saw blade, put it in the drawer with the other blades or find a piece of wood to let it rest.

== Hazards from dust ==

Even when you are not actively working, there is almost always a lot of dust floating in the air in the woodshop.

* '''Consider wearing a mask or respirator.''' Sawdust stays airborne for a long time and it is an irritant. Prolonged exposure to sawdust can create serious health concerns. An N95 or N100 mask is great to keep the particles out. Many of us use masks with replaceable filters because they are more comfortable to wear and have a better seal.
* '''Use dust collection.''' Whenever possible, use the dust collectors attached to the machines or a ShopVac. A downdraft table also helps to capture particles. After you are done with a machine or sanding on a table, use broom to push dust into pans and place in garbage cans.
* '''Clean around the machines.''' Dust is also slippery. The floors should be relatively dust-free to prevent slipping when walking or turning.

== Hazards from sanding belts and wheels ==

The belts and wheels move past a fixed metal platform that supports the work.

* '''Hold onto your work:''' Always maintain control of the work near the moving sander, otherwise it can be trapped or thrown.
* '''Watch out for loose clothing, hair, or aprons:''' They can get caught between the moving sander and the platform, or get pulled into the wheels. Consider removing anything dangling, secure your hair. Do not turn around quickly.
* '''Don't let your hands get pinched:''' always keep your hands away from the moving sander. If you have a thin piece of work, hold the work with one hand and use a push stick to apply light pressure to the other side of the work that's close to the sander.

== Hazards from fumes ==

* '''Do not cut materials that could give off fumes.''' When in doubt, ask a staff member and try to ventilate the shop. Some materials with paints or plastics can heat up and release hazardous gasses, so be mindful of what you cut. That said, everything gives off some amount of fumes such as cutting MDF, using glue, or applying finishes.

== Hazards from nails and screws ==

* '''Do not leave sharp fasteners on the floor or tables.''' It's easy to step on or grab a nail or end of a wood screw. Put the fasteners back in their bins or bags, or sweep them into garbage cans.

== Hazards from falling materials ==

* '''Use support arms or support stands.''' You only have two hands and when you cut materials the two halves often pivot away in opposite directions. In the case of a miter saw this means the cut ends of the materials can fall away and pinch the blade: this will throw the wood back at you. Extend support arms or use a stand.

== Hazards from kickback ==

* '''Wood pinching on a spinning blade can throw wood back at you or someone else.''' It happens faster than you can react. Always keep pressure and control on your material and watch for any opportunity to have the wood pinch the blade or turn oddly into the blade. Even if you push wood through the table saw cleanly, the wood may relax beyond the blade and curve inward. Always know how to stop the machine or keep control of the material.
* '''Use the Riving Knife.''' This is a key safety device to avoid kickback. You should never use the table saw without the riving knife in place.
* '''Don't stand in the path of small thin material.''' When cutting on the table saw you may be ripping a small strip off one side. Stay to the left of the saw blade and allow a small gap so that if kickback happens then the small piece will shoot past your hip.
* '''Use a miter gauge or crosscut sled for material that is wider than it is long.''' A miter gauge or sled rides in a track that prevents the material from turning left/right. Holding your material to the miter gauge or sled lets you safely push it through a table saw blade.
* '''Clamp non-square material.''' Anything at an angle should be clamped to a sled or a miter gauge. This goes for round poles. And this is for the table saw, miter saw, and band saw. The blade will grab a round side and spin it harder than you can hold onto it.
* See also: [https://youtu.be/Xc-lIs8VNIc?t=1114 Table saw accidents]

== Hazards from clogged or insufficient dust collection ==

Always use the dust collector or ShopVac to suck dust from the work surface and the machine. Dust can clog up the machine leading to damage. Always check that it feels like air is being sucked away, and replace bags if not.

* Sawdust on the floors can make them slippery
* Too much dust below the bandsaws can create a fire hazard and/or throw dust back up into the air
* Overfilled dust collection bags won't vacuum
* Overfilled dust collection bags can break
* If a ShopVac feels heavy, it's probably full
* If a ShopVac doesn't suck, then the bag might be full, the filter might be clogged, or the bag could be broken
* There are dust catch trays below the downdraft table
* Too much dust in the table saw can jam the elevation mechanism and lead to stripped gears
* Not vacuuming the thickness planer can result in uneven cuts
* Not turning on the jointer dust collector can result in damage to the machine
* Not using the dust shoe or a ShopVac on the CNC router can create a fire when drilling holes or small pockets
* Overfilled hand sander bags can lead to sawdust spilling back onto your work or sanded particles thrown back into the air

== Hazards from wet wood ==

In general, wet wood is hard to work with and it can cause problems on the machines. Wood from a lumber yard may be kiln-dried, which helps. But letting wood rest in your shop for a while helps to let it acclimate to your local humidity.

* '''Wet wood can warp.''' All wood has moisture and as you cut it a bend may form. Let it dry out before planing or cutting on the table saw.
* '''Wet wood can trigger the SawStop.''' And SawStop cartridges are about $100/each right now. Wet wood is electrically conductive, and if you hold the wood then you may trigger the brake.

== Hazards from wood irritants ==

Wood dust in general is problematic and you can [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitization_(immunology) become sensitized] to it, leading to rashes or breathing difficulties. Some woods can be more irritating; the [https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ Wood Allergies and Toxicity] database is a good resource. (Wood that has been finished is generally non-irritating since it's sealed.)

* Always test unknown woods and ask for advice [https://makernexus.slack.com/archives/CJP87T62X on #woodshop Slack].
* Use dust collection and/or ShopVac your work area often.
* Wear a mask or respirator when in the woodshop.
* If the wood smells bad when you're sanding or milling it, stop.

Some woods to be mindful of:

* [https://www.wood-database.com/cocobolo/ Cocobolo]: Deep contrasting grain and tight knots.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/lacewood/ Lacewood]: This is name for a number of species that have the same beautiful wave-like grain.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/purpleheart/ Purpleheart]: A unique rich purple/eggplant color.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/coast-redwood/ Redwood]: Some redwood may cause breathing issues.
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juglans#Wood Walnut]: That deep reddish brown grain, but for people with nut allergies you may be sensitive to this.
* [https://www.wood-database.com/wenge Wenge]: Dark with circular striping, and may cause abdominal cramps and central nervous system effects
* [https://www.wood-database.com/zebrawood/ Zebrawood]: High contrast undulating stripes, but also an irritant which can include stomach upset

== Hazards from miter gauges and sleds ==

* '''Double check the metal bits won't cross the path of a blade!''' If the blade touches a metal bit it could chip the blade and start the machine wobbling or throw the sharp metal somewhere bad. On the SawStop, this can trigger the blade brake!
** Without your wood on the miter gauge/sled, see if it'll clear the blades
** Check sleds for metal bits protruding into the path of a blade
** Make sure the gauge/sled's movable bits are tightened before pushing them near the blade
* '''Double check the height of the MicroJig.''' The Microjig should be on top of the wood as a push block and the table saw blade should pass right through the jig opening with enough clearance that it would get caught in the blade. Spend time to adjust the position of the feet so they'll grip your wood before ''and after'' the cut and also clear the blade. Use the support foot.
* '''Clamps should also be checked.''' It's common to use clamps to hold work to a sled or to hold a stop block. An unsecured metal clamp can fall into the path of a blade or can be pushed into it. With the machine off, do a test push to make sure your clamps are well out of the cut area.

Related:
* Watch out for unsecured fingerboards getting pulled into the path of a blade, or getting bumped by a MicroJig into the path of a blade

== Hazards from processed work still sitting on/near the cutting surface ==

After you make the cut, move the processed material to your "done pile". That way you're not trying to make the next cut and having extra materials that could fall back into the path of the blade or sander or other moving machine.

== Hazards from rounded wood, round sticks, and dowels ==

Rounded wood won't sit exactly parallel to the fence. Be ''very careful'' when attempting to cut these as they can easily get trapped between the blade and the fence leading to kickback, twisting, or pulling you too close to the blades.

Especially round sticks or dowels should be held in jigs or clamped. A moving blade or sanding surface can spin the material faster than you can hold it. Especially with a table saw: even if you cut a round circle flat, the blade action can turn it into a gear and spin it back at you or pull your hands into the path of the blade!

Even when turning wood on a lathe be sure it is clamped in or secured strong enough that the work piece won't get loose or fly away.

== Hazards from reclaimed wood or staples ==

Reclaimed wood may have nails, screws, or staples still in it. Even lumber from a warehouse store may have stapled tags on the ends. These metal bits can deflect a blade or cause breakage, which can lead to a safety concern.

* '''Carefully remove all metal from the wood.''' Inspect all angles of it, especially the ends or undersides.
* '''Be wary of reclaimed lumber.''' Know where it came from and watch out for bolts.
* '''Pallet wood may have nails.''' Pallets may have extra nails from their quick construction.

== Hazards from loud noise ==

Machines are loud, and wood being cut also tends to be loud. Wearing ear protection is highly recommended to prevent hearing damage. There are several methods people use:

* '''Standard foam earplugs.''' They are cheap and portable. They may become uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.
* '''Tethered soft earplugs.''' Usually with a cable, these have softer tips and are more comfortable for longer.
* '''Noise canceling headphones and earbuds.''' Many people like to use the noise canceling feature or listen to music. Be sure to keep the music volume low enough that you can hear other people trying to grab your attention or to hear the sound the machine is making.
* '''Shop-grade earmuffs.''' These provide excellent hearing protection and comfortable for long periods of time.

Wearing hearing protection also prevents sawdust from getting lodged in your ears!

== Hazards from dried glue ==

Using glue is absolutely fine, but ''too much glue'' can pose problems for the jointer, thickness planer, or your finish. The best strategy is to use only as much glue as you need to coat and stick your pieces together, clamp snuggly to create as much squeeze-out, then use a damp rag to remove excess glue.

* '''Wipe off excess glue.''' After you squeeze wood together, use a moistened (not sopping wet) rag to wipe off excess glue. (Wash out dirty rags and pails in the wet room, not the bathroom sink!)
* '''Scrape excess dried glue.''' Use a scraping tool to remove the big blobs
* '''Tape the clamps.''' Glue can get really stuck to the clamps, so add some blue tape to the clamps before the glue-up, especially when making large panels.
* '''Hard glue blobs can damage the planer or jointer.''' Glue is harder than you think, and it can dull the planer jointer's blades. Scrape excess glue before passing it through.
* '''Hard glue blobs can deflect the CNC router.''' Our [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|Shopbot]] has no feedback mechanism to know that it has wandered off its path. Hard glue blobs work like screws/nails and deflect the path of the router bit.
* '''Extra glue can create an uneven surface.''' And that means your cuts will no longer be straight.
* '''Extra glue can block finish from setting in.''' And that leads to uneven finish.

== Hazards from rushing ==

Woodworking is a slow process because many of the materials are very dense and there are many natural variations. Many of the goals of woodworking are to refine the raw materials into interesting shapes with smooth surfaces or sturdy joints. It just takes time to get a good result. Attempting to speed up the process or not using the best tool for the job risks marring your workpiece, breaking the tool, or injuring you.

* '''Give yourself at least 2X the amount of time.''' Time in the woodshop works differently. You may spend 30 minutes working on some material. But you have to account for the 20 minutes before that to set up your workspace and tools, and the 20 minutes afterwards to clean up.
** Especially with the CNC router, that thing can take a long time to set your work holddowns and zero the machine! Cleaning up is also longer because you have to sweep a much larger area than most tools.
* '''Always make time to clean.''' Especially in a shared shop like ours, removing dust, debris, and putting the tools back in their places protects everyone else's safety.
* '''Always check that safety mechanisms are working.''' Rushing through the safety checks means you can miss critical things like a wobby fence or an unsecured drill bit. Get into a routine and don't take shortcuts; have the shop checklists handy to confirm you've done all the steps.
* '''Make a plan; know what you can do out of order.''' Because of a limited number of machines in a shared woodshop, you may not be able to be on the machine you need. It's best to group the steps of your project together so that you can do a part of your project out of sequence. For instance, maybe the table saw is going to be busy for an hour or so, so spend time marking your drilling holes and cut lines.
* '''Walk in front of people, not behind.''' Walking in someone's sightline (and doing it slowly) is best since the noise of the shop often means you can't hear each other. Attempting to run around behind someone can surprise people actively cutting or you may come into an area where the other people might need to back up quickly. Also, most of the kickback from tools flies past people; you'd be walking into a kickback zone.
* '''Doublecheck your work pieces.''' How often have you started a cut and realized it's the wrong side or that it wasn't perfectly parallel to a fence? Set up your cut/drill/carve, check that the work is secure and it's on the correct side, and check your tools for damage.
* '''Wait until blades stop spinning.''' A moving blade still has a lot of energy. Grabbing that offcut too early can push it back into the blade or catch your sleeve up in a rotating bit.
** Especially with the SawStop: the brake mechanism is still sensing contact for a second after the blade has stopped. Either wait an extra second, or look down at the SawStop switch panel to make sure the safety lights have stopped blinking. (Brakes are expensive and replacing can take a couple hours!)

= Materials =

== Wood ==

Of course, wood! Check out the [https://www.wood-database.com/ Wood Database] for tons of information about different woods. Identification, strength, finishes, etc.

=== Solid wood ===

These are going to be your general lumber. Basically a tree that's cut into boards that you can reduce to the sizes you need.

Lumber yards are your best bet for quality and selection, but a local hardware store will stock some things you can use.

People love the feel of "real wood" and it has advantages like being shaped and sanded. You can think of it as a solid material---it's really more like a bundle of straws stuck together with natural glues. However, wood will expand sideways because the wood cells are great at holding moisture. (It was a tree, after all.)

=== Engineered lumber ===

These are mostly your plywoods and sheet materials. Most are trees that have been peeled into thin layers, then assembled into panels with glue. Plywood usually has grain placed at 90-degree angles on every other layer, which gives it strength and also means it doesn't change shape that much with weather. There are many types of plywood: cheaply-made big layers that have voids ("holes") and knots, better quality that have less voids or that use MDF cores, or higher end which have smooth void-free sheets and clean veneers.

There are boards made from long flat wood chips: oriented strand board (OSB). It's like plywood, but more glue and less strong. It's better as siding panels.

And there is medium density fiberboard (MDF). This is basically sawdust with glue. It's perfect for making templates or creating complex shapes. It is very heavy (because it's mostly glue) and weak when bending.

Bamboo panels are a little like MDF: bamboo is oriented with ends out and glue fills the gaps. It is very heavy, easy to shape like MDF, and looks nice on the sides and top.

=== Green Wood ===

The wood should be dried. For the lathes it ok if the wood is green but it can’t be sappy or wet. For the bandsaw the wood should be dry as any sap will gum up the blades and if it’s wet it can damage the cast iron.

For cutting logs on the bandsaw they must be dry and you have to use a jig of some sort to keep the log from rotating when you are cutting it. A V-shaped jig would be a good option for this.

== Glues ==

Most popular glues come from processed oil and they form an incredibly strong bond with wood fibers. Here is a good [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERzvofrGs7I explanation video].

* Wood glues (e.g. Titebond) have water in them. When you press two pieces of wood together, the glue fills the tiny wood gaps and wraps around fibers. As the water leaves the glue, the glue hardens.

* Epoxy uses a resin and a hardener. The resin flows around the wood fibers, and the hardener links the resin together as it evaporates. Note that this process can generate a lot of heat and it must be done in a well-ventilated area. (You cannot do this at Maker Nexus.)

* Cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue, super glue) works by flowing around fibers in the wood. As the glue interacts with ambient moisture, the glue polymerizes forming a hard substance. You have a very short amount of time to let the glue flow on the wood surface and when you press another piece of wood together it hardens and holds the opposite sides together. You can use an accelerator which is basically water in a solvent and it creates a stronger bond: the sprayed accelerator flows into the cracks of the wood and then the CA glue immediately hardens on contact. Baking soda is an accelerator for CA glue.

=== Gluing endgrain ===

Remember that solid wood ends are like the edges of a bundle of straws: the surface is actually very uneven and those open ends want to soak up glue (or finish!).

Putting glue on the end grain is said to create a weak joint because the glue doesn't have a lot of sheer strength. But, this video shows how strong the glue itself is: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis See the short, very interesting test video].

[[Advice: Wood Glue Ups|Some local knowledge]] from our members.

== Finishes ==

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abxFCzqOtg0&t=2s Odie's Oil]
** Wipe on, dry, wipe off. 2 coats usually good. Generally easy to apply.
** For larger endgrain slabs, recommendation is to use thin coat and allow 1-2 days per coat to dry completely.
** Cookie slabs can retain a lot of moisture and that will interfere with the hardening process.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsjnRcmC840 Tung oil] finishes

= Supplies =

Also see the general [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]] page.

= Tools =

== Bench Vise ==
* How to pick a vise? [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcbTopj5u7A A fun video with serious information]

== Table Saw ==

Table saws are one of the most useful tools in the woodshop.

* The '''table''' supports your work so you have two hands free to move the materials
* The '''rip fence''' guides your work straight through the blade
* The '''circular saw blade''' creates consistently repeatable cuts
* The '''miter slots''' in the table allow for accessories to glide parallel to the blade such as:
** '''Miter gauge''': fits in one slot, lets you select an angle. Used for small material.
** '''Crosscut sled''': usually fits in two slots, allows you to hold pieces that are wider than they are long safely

Many makerspaces use [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/ SawStop table saws]:

* [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/the-technology/ Injury mitigation technology]: electrical contact-activated brake
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8EX7mt3ByE&list=PL6E065D460FF0BACC SawStop Safety System video]

=== Saw Blades in general ===
* [https://everlastsaw.com/learn/blade-design Saw Blade Design Glossary]
* Some brands members like include: [https://www.cmtorangetools.com/na-en/industrial-saw-blades CMT], [https://diablotools.com/explore/circular-saw-blades/wood-cutting/ Diablo], [https://www.freudtools.com Freud], [https://www.forrestblades.com Forrest]

==== Types of saw blades ====
* '''Ripping blade:''' Fewer, larger teeth with big gullets to help cut fast along the grain, usually 18T-24T
* '''Crosscutting blade:''' More teeth 40T-60T, up to even 100T
* '''Combo blade:''' Larger gullets than a crosscut blade, alternating top bevel (ATB) tooth geometry

=== Saw blade care ===

==== Sharpening a saw blade ====

* Sharping a blade can change its diameter, which may not make it compatible with the SawStop

=== SawStop compatible saw blades ===
About buying blades for the SawStop table saw, from [https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/faqs/#hfaq-post-5480 the SawStop FAQ]:

* OK: steel or carbide teeth
* OK: thin kerf, ''minimum'' kerf 3/32"
* OK: 10" saw blade, ''maximum'' kerf 3/16"
** Use a dado stack for cuts wider than 3/16"
* OK: 8" dado stack, ''maximum'' thickness 29/32"
* '''No:''' non-conductive teeth, i.e. diamond blades
* '''No:''' lacquer-coated teeth (graphics or coatings on the blade faces are OK)
* '''No:''' anti-kickback shoulders or anti-depth-limiting
* '''No:''' wobble/dial-a-width dado sets
* '''No:''' solid-plate interior dado chippers
* '''No:''' dado blades with molding heads

== Wood Lathe ==
* Using a skew. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wjh9FcO7ftI Nice video explaining skew angles and when to use each].

== Wood Chisels ==
* '''Sharpening:'''
** The grind on [https://www.dewalt.com/products/hand-tools/chisels-punches-files/chisels DeWalt chisels] is very rough out of the box. The edge isn't durable because it is very jagged. To get a good edge on them you need to carefully flatten the surface of the bevel of the chisel with a rough sharpening stone before moving on to finer grits. Sandpaper is not the right tool for the job.
** Some members like [http://www.narexchisels.com/Narex_Chisels/Home.html Narex chisels] which are similar in price to DeWalt

== CNC router ==

One of the most powerful tools in the shop, the CNC router (like our [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|ShopBot]]) lets you design very precise carves using software like VCarve and Autodesk Fusion 360, then transform that into cutting instructions that are precise to a fraction of an inch. You can make complex shapes, precise joinery, and etch graphics into materials like wood and plastic. ''Maker Nexus has a separate CNC plasma cutter for metals.)''

=== The CNC machine ===

CNC router bits (end mills) are loaded into the [[Shopbot_and_Tormak#ShopBot_Alpha|ShopBot]] and then calibrated to the surface height of the bed or the top of your material, i.e. Z-zeroed.

* '''Bed:''' the flat surface that supports all of your material to be cut
* '''Work holding:''' methods of pinning down the material to the bed so it doesn't move. ''You absolutely cannot hand hold material because the machine is very strong, the router bit is spinning very fast, and the safety stop switch would be far away.''

=== CNC bits / end mills ===

* '''Collet:''' the clamping receiver that holds the bit. At Maker Nexus we have variious sizes from 1/4" to 1/2"
* '''Collet cover nut:''' holds the collet to the spindle by tightening on the threads. Treat this like a normal router bit: tighten snugly!
** Check the collet for dust and debris ''before'' inserting into the collet cover nut or loading your bit. Brush or bang them out.
** First hand tighten the collet cover nut to the spindle to make sure you've properly aligned the threads, then wrench them tight
* '''Shank:''' the shaft that the collet clamps onto
* '''Flutes:''' the number of cutting surfaces, usually 2, that is just below the shank
* '''Deflection:''' if you move faster through the material than the flutes can chip out, the router bit may actually bend (and possibly break). This leaves you with uneven cuts or can push your material out of its work holds.

Depending on what you're doing, you can choose from a variety of these cutting heads:

* '''Straight bit:''' the flutes are vertical, good for plowing through material sideways
* '''Downcut spiral bit:''' good for digging through material from the top, leaves quite a bit of tearout near the bottom, can also pack sawdust down in a hole and create smoking
* '''Upcut spiral bit:''' good for carving down to the underside of the material, leaving a more neat surface, but creates tearout on the top surface
** An undertightened bit can actually come loose because the spirals are pulling the bit away from the spindle! Be sure to tighten well.
* '''Compression bit:''' A little bit of an upcut spiral at the bottom and then a lot of downcut spiral above that. It's meant so you dig down throught the material fully and then move sideways to do a profile cut. The upcut part at the end makes a neat cut on the bottom side, the downcut part above that makes a neat cut on the top side, meaning you can run pretty fast and have ''both sides'' of the material with minimal tearout. These bits are expensive but are great with veneered plywood.

It's good to ''hog out'' (or ''rough out'') material using a straight/spiral bit first. The following bits are not great for cutting down since they have a smaller cutting surface. Use a downcut spiral first then switch to the ball nose to carve this feature for best results.

* '''Ball nose bit:''' Big radius bit used for creating a smooth slope where the side walls meet a floor.
* '''V-carve bit:''' A pointed bit (usually 45 degrees for bevels and chamfers, 60 degrees for etching signs)

=== CNC carving ===

Then you can do all sorts of cuts:

* '''Profile cut:''' Plow all the way through the material to cut it out. You can also cut a slope with the right combination of bits.
* '''Pocket cut:''' Go part way through the material to hollow it out, like making the inside of a bowl.
* '''V-carve:''' Use the v-shaped bits to etch letters and designs into material
* '''Moulding:''' Use a ball nose bit to create smooth roundovers
* '''Tabs:''' leave a little bit of the material ''uncut'' (usually with profile cuts) so that it's held in place while the rest of the cuts are being done. Then you can slide the tabs off later manually.
* '''Surfacing:''' Use a large flat-cutting bit to level the surface. This is perfect for spoilboards or leveling the surface of a cutting board or rough material.

= Tips =

== Basic Tips ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZkYLVrTYe4 The Way Wood Works -- What Every Woodworker Needs to Know About Wood]
* [https://www.youtube.com/@MattEstlea Matt Estlea]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMYbr93rsCE Select the right screw]

== Joinery ==
* [https://ruby-press.com/shop/the-joinery-compendium-learning-from-traditional-woodworking/ Joinery Compendium]

== Wood Inlay ==
* [https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/02/07/create-dramatic-inlays-epoxy How to create dramatic inlays with epoxy]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_i_DfncSQc $15,000 Kitchen Island]. Good tips on the overall process of a wood countertop, including epoxy inlay.

== Edge Treatment ==
* [https://youtu.be/_U4UMj07whs?t=903 Making Edge-Grain Patterned Plywood]. The link drops you to the finished piece, the whole video shows how he did it.

== Sanding ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDYPGgjQmF4 So, you think you know how to sand, eh?]. Learn to sand correctly.
* [[Drum sander tips]]

== Table Saw ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSbS5zhH7cE General intro to table saw safety]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JL8-1bmt7XY Blade Height] - what is the right height for your cut?
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5EsvnfyB20 Tablesaw set up] - excellent tips on safety that you might not know about.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f8VWwtaudU Kickback] and how to avoid it. Work safely!
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTVEqzFa5Is A different kind of kickback]!
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSQJ0247ifY Three different blades] - why to use each
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFFzmJfv5No Jointer, Planer, Drum sander] - what do they each do and why?
* [https://youtu.be/u9wHESP07sc?feature=shared Half laps on the tablesaw] without a dado set

== Router ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IBn1iXpzdU Which direction to move the router?]

== Drilling ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlnu1qXGzbI Forstner bits] and how to use them

== Turning ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/@RichardRaffanwoodturning Richard Raffan]
* [https://youtube.com/@tomislavtomasicwoodturning?si=fPTtqZF6RVf_4Efb Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)]

== Misc ==
* An analysis of [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwXVJusqv0s Parallel clamps]
* Tips on [[wood preparation tips 1|precision work with our tools]]

Laser Cutters

2025-09-17T03:49:07Z

Amylee:

{{About|general laser-cutting tools and tips|the laser cutters at the Maker Nexus makerspace in Sunnyvale, CA|[[MN Laser Cutters]]}}

= What do laser cutters do? =

Laser cutters used focused energy beams to literally burn away materials like paper, cardboard, plywood, leather, metal tumblers, and laser-safe acrylic. When done right, you can barely etch the surface for rasterized designs, or you can cleanly cut through the material without setting it on fire. (The art of the laser is basically controlled burning.)

= Safety considerations =

There are more [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/MN_Safety safety considerations] than what's listed here. But these are some things we have learned:

== In general ==

* '''Safety should be the most important priority.''' Always look at the machines and the work area. Don't distract people when they are actively cutting. If something doesn't feel right, stop. If you need help, ask someone or a staff member.
* '''Do not walk away from an active cut.''' If a machine is running, stay close to it.
* '''Fires happen very fast.''' Always have the spray bottle of water near your hands, and know how to pause/cancel the job. Don't play with your phone or turn your back on the laser.
* '''Don't rush or work when tired.''' You may miss safety checks.
** Stay hydrated
** Stay focused
** Plan your restroom breaks

== Hazards from laser energy ==

You can't actually see our lasers---they use infrared light. When the machines are operating you must keep the lids down because the high energy can be harmful. (It is safe to look at the laser through the lids.) However, there ''is'' a visible locator dot created by a second laser pointer.

== Hazards from fire ==

This section should really be named "hazards from ''too much fire''". (Laser cutting works by setting things on fire.) It is totally expected that the material you are cutting will emit a small flame, but the flame should be extinguished almost immediately.

A fire that is allowed to burn uncontrolled risks damaging your work, destroying the machine, or putting the facility (and its people) at risk.

* If the '''flame doesn't go out''' you must put it out, even before running for help.
** Have a water bottle in your hands at all times so you can extinguish the flames.
** If the flames don't go out, stop the cut immediately on the control panel.
** Failing that, grab the emergency smothering blanket and throw it over the whole bed to snuff the flames.
** Failing that, grab the fire extinguisher, pull the pin, shoot the base of the fire (not the flame part).
** In all cases where the flame became large, immediately contact the [[MOD]]!

== Hazards from smoke ==

Smoke is the visible burned particles thrown into the air. Do not breathe the particles in.

* After you are done a cut, leave the lid down so the air filter can clean the chamber for a few seconds.
* Too much smoke in the chamber can coat and damage the equipment including the laser lens, the mirrors, and the motors.
* Be sure the compressed air is functioning so smoke doesn't enter the lens head.

== Hazards from fumes ==

Fumes are the gasses you can't see. All materials when cut will emit some gasses. In a maker space such as ours we have strict rules on "bad gasses" that can cause a lot of harm to your health or the equipment.

We have air filters on the lasers, but they cannot filter out many "bad gasses" and there's only a certain amount of fumes the filters can handle at any one time.

* Never cut a material you aren't absolutely sure about.
** Ordering cheap materials through online stores sometimes results in them sending you a material that looks like what you wanted but is actually made of things we don't allow.
** Check the [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]] page for reputable suppliers
* Never cut painted materials since those plastics and pigments can release toxic gasses.
* Don't cut glue. MDF is mostly glue!
* Only cut laser-safe acrylic; other plastics can emit toxic or corrosive gasses.
* Only cut polyethylene foam you are sure is pure PE foam. Polyurethane (PU) foam will create hydrochloric acid which will eat the machine from the inside. And your lungs.

== Hazards from small parts ==

Be careful when cutting small parts. They may not separate in the cutting process and create a fire hazard.

== Hazards from shiny materials ==

Anything reflective can bounce the laser beam back up into the lens which will overheat and destroy the lens. Lens are hundreds of dollars.

== Hazards from warping materials ==

Thin materials like paper may get blown around the chamber. Cardboard tends to warp and pull up.

* Tape or weight down materials so they don't move. Blue painters tape works fantastic.
* A material that tips up can get caught in the mechanism.

== Hazards from the bed being too high ==

The laser head can literally crash into the bed rails. Be sure to focus and align the laser beams, which usually keeps a good gap off of your materials. If the head does run into the rails it can bend the mechanisms or damage the bed.

[[File:laser-with-weight.jpeg|thumb|Laser over plywood with a metal weight]]

== Hazards from non-flat materials ==

Anything that pokes up can catch the head. That can misalign the head or the mirrors.

* Make sure the head will cleanly pass over your material
* Watch for long pieces you cut out that might tip up to the head
* When using weights, doing a "framing pass" and place weights outside the cutting boundary. Do this more than once.

= Different Machines =

[[Laser Manufacturers]] list (and associated equipment) with any notes we have.

= Technology =

[https://www.ophiropt.com/co2-lasers-optics/focusing-lens/knowledge-center/tutorial/cutting-head-optics An interesting explanation of the optics] involved in laser cutters.

Parallax Technology offers [https://www.parallax-tech.com/faq.htm a collection of tips and info] about laser cutting physics.

= How To =

* Test to determine the correct focal distance for your laser [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg6THrEdleo video]

*A [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX4wA5KhEX6o8zZkHnPthUQ YouTube channel] with a lot of videos. Specializing in board game enhancements.

* Create [https://tjltjl.github.io/plycutter/ 2D files for laser cutting from a 3D model] in STL format.

* Better engraving in wood [https://youtu.be/T8op5kIeTcs?t=62 by using Borax]

* Make the design for a box with a free [https://en.makercase.com/#/ online tool]

* A very flexible Python program to make all kinds of different boxes, hinges, the scope of what it will do is really interesting [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py]

= Techniques =

== Wood Staining ==

Use Minwax Water Based Wood Stain to color the wood before cutting. Available everywhere, including Ace Hardware stores. They add tint just like they would with a paint. I ignore the colors in the samples on the shelf. I asked to see the colors in the tint machine, there are about a dozen. For my red, I use the red tint straight, no other colors. The stuff works great. I brush it on with a foam brush, then wipe it with a cotton rag.

== Cut for [[Vacuum_Forming|Vacuum_Forming]] ==

I cut a 3 inch medallion positive to use in laser forming. I cut it out of 6mm Baltic Birch plywood. I set the 3d Stamp mode in the driver to Shoulder 45, Widening 0. This gave great relief. On the 120w laser I used 400 DPI, speed 40, power 90, Stucki, bottom up. I did two passes.

== Fitting Parts to a Sheet ==

=== SVGNest ===

Sometimes you have a lot of irregular shapes you want to cut. Maximizing the use of a piece of material can be tough. The demo on this site is pretty cool: http://svgnest.com/   It's open souce, source found here: https://github.com/Jack000/SVGnest

I haven't tried SVGNest yet, but the sample images on his page are impressive.

== Joints ==

Mortise and Tenon [https://hackaday.com/2023/12/04/this-laser-cut-one-piece-wedge-tenon-locks-wood-joints-tight/ on a laser cutter]

Rotating joint idea

[[File:Rotating laser joint.png|200px]]

== Sudo 3D ==

This web site shows a technique to create nice 3D chess pieces. He cuts the front profile then a bounding box. Then he rotates the piece 90 degrees to cut the other profiles. The results are very interesting. [http://imgur.com/a/Rt8kz http://imgur.com/a/Rt8kz]   Thanks to Bruce for finding this.

== Working with Inkscape and the Epilog Helix ==

=== The basics ===
* "Objects" in Inkscape can be created in several forms:
# Object "primitives" (my term) -- the objects that you can draw using the tools on the left hand side of the Inkscape window -- these include rectangles, ovals, polygons, and text strings;
# "Stroke" objects -- the objects that you create when using the pen tool -- either lines or Bezier curves; and
# "Path" objects. As far as I know, you cannot create path objects directly, but you can convert other objects to paths using "Path | Object to Path" and "Path | Stroke to Path". If you use "Path | Trace Bitmap" to convert a pixel (raster) image to a vector drawing, the result is a stroke object.

* KEY CONCEPT: you MUST convert all objects that you want the Epilog laser to cut/engrave into "Path" objects.
** Select the object and use "Path | Object to Path" or "Path | Stroke to Path", as appropriate. If you don't perform these conversions, the objects will be ignored by the laser cutter!
** You can test that the object has been converted to a path by using the node editor tool (on the left toolbar below the select pointer). You should see a whole bunch of nodes that represent the path around the selected object. Another good test is to select "View | Display Mode | Outline" to clearly see the defined paths.
** After converting all of your objects to paths, use "Object | Fill and Stroke" to designate vector cutting/engraving (no fill, stroke line width = 0.001") or raster engraving (fill the object with black color and no stroke or stroke greater than 0.001").

=== Techniques ===

'''To vector cut/engrave''' an object or text: place the object in the workspace. Select the object with the arrow pointer. Then: "Path | Object to Path". Next, select "Fill and Stroke" and make sure that there is no fill and that lines are solid and 0.001" wide. The difference between vector cutting and vector engraving is in the driver settings and not the Inkscape file.

'''To raster engrave''' an object or text: place the object in the workspace. Select the object with the arrow pointer. Then: "Path | Object to Path". Next, select "Fill and Stroke" and make sure that there is a solid fill and no stroke (or stroke greater than 0.001"). The depth of the raster engraving is in the driver settings and not the Inkscape file.

'''To align objects''' inside of other objects (e.g. to center vertically): Select both objects and use "Object | Align and Distribute"

'''To both vector engrave and vector cut within one project''', select different colors for the cut objects and for the engraved objects. Make sure to note the full RGB settings for your color(s). In the Epilog driver, use the Color Mapping tab. Make sure to check the box to enable color mapping, select the color (double check that the RGB for the selected color are exactly what you set for the object in Inkscape), enter the settings and use the right arrow by the settings to transfer the settings into the color table. Each color can have different settings for the laser. The per color settings of raster/vector/both do not specify that the entire color will be rastered or vectored - that is determined by the width of the line in your Inkscape file. Any color that is not set in the color settings will use the default vector/raster settings on the main driver tab.

Settings that work well with 3 mm birch plywood are:

* Raster engraving: raster speed = 30%, raster power = 75%.

* Vector engraving: vector speed = 50%, vector power = 50%, vector frequency = 2500 Hz.

* Vector cutting: vector speed = 20%, vector power = 90%, vector frequency = 2500 Hz.

'''Making a box''' with the Inkscape TABBED BOX extension.
See the document on the MN Member Google Drive, at:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1btpuTFqOBQuDYE213z-sIyOjfjcpTbVC/view?usp=sharing

== Air Assist ==
Why do you need air blowing on the lasered area? Air assist is just a steady flow of air to blow smoke and cutting residue away from the beam path and optics of a laser cutter. It’s simple, but critical; without it, smoke can obscure and reflect the laser beam, foul lenses and mirrors, and severely degrade cut quality. An interesting test of [https://hackaday.io/project/179362-laser-air-assist-shootout different air sources].

= Materials =

[https://www.ponoko.com/blog/materials/10-great-materials-for-laser-cutting/ Ponoko] has a fun list of 10 great materials to laser.

== Baltic Birch Plywood ==
It comes in 5x5 foot sheets 3mm (1/8th inch) for about $18. I have them cut the boards into 24 inch strips so that they fit in my car. I then cut the strips into 24x18 panels at TechShop. The price per panel is about $2.50. It also comes in 6mm sheets. These prices are from 2014 at the now defunct Southern Lumber. We've found a supplier on the web: [http://ocoochhardwoods.com/plywood.php Ocooch Hardwoods] I've found that the glue in this plywood makes it harder to cut than plain wood. There are also some hidden hard spots in the plywood. I have to cut at a slower speed or else I'll have some places that do not cut through.
*Settings for 3mm 45watt: speed 8, power 90, frequency 500. If the laser is really clean then speed can go up to 12.
*Settings for 6mm
Another source for Birch Ply is Mayan Hardwoods In Paso Robles. [http://www.mayanhardwood.com/ http://www.mayanhardwood.com/] Mayan carries a full line of hardwood plywood and regular hardwood lumber by the board foot. They do not have a cutting service for sheets of plywood. They do have a chop saw to cut board down. They have the Baltic Birch in 5' X 5' sheets in both 1/8" (3 mm) and 1/4" (6 mm).<br/>They also have Birch Plywood in 4' X 8' sheets. The 5 X 5 sheets are a much better quality than the 4 X 8 sheets.<br/><br/>They offer contractor prices<br/>
*Birch 1/8" 5 X 5 sheets for $17.77
*Birch 1/4" 5 X 5 sheets for $21.45
Mayan also has Oak 1/8"; and 1/4" plywood in 4' X 8' sheets.

== Acrylic ==
Also known as Plexiglas. It comes in several thicknesses; usually specified in English units (1/8, 1/4) but actually manufactured in metric (3mm, 6mm). It is easy to laser cut with a nice finish on the cut edges. Etching also produces nice effects. While extruded is cheaper, we highly recommend cast acrylic for your projects.

=== Cast Acrylic ===
Has a paper protective layer stuck to it with rubber cement. You can etch and cut through the paper. Has a very consistent thickness across the sheet. Superior etching results. It can warp if left in the sun on the dashboard of a car.

=== Extruded Acrylic ===
Has a blue plastic protective layer. The protective layer is reported to be laser safe but etching through it may not be ideal. May have slight thickness variation across the sheet. If precise thickness is important to your design, you may want to work in smaller pieces, measuring each with calipers and adjusting your design before cutting. Goes soft at a lower temperature than cast acrylic. Is 15% cheaper than cast acrylic.

=== Mirrored Acrylic ===
Mirrored acrylic has a thin reflective layer on one side. The mirror is seen when looking through the acrylic, the other side is a dull matte finish. You cannot cut or etch mirrored acrylic with the reflective side up (towards the laser). You can, however, cut mirrored acrylic with the dull side towards the laser. You can also get some interesting effects by etching the dull side, which removed the mirrored layer from areas.

=== Cement ===
While many glues may hold acrylic for some time, by far the best option is [https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130/296?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt9im_rbB5AIVgv_jBx31xwjwEAQYASABEgLiwvD_BwE acrylic cement]. This is a very thin liquid that wicks into a joint between two pieces of acrylic and dissolves the two pieces to form a very strong molecular bond. The bond requires that the two pieces have good contact between them; the cement does not fill gaps. You should search YouTube for a video on how to use acrylic cement - it is filled with good tips.

You can also use double sided tape or other similar methods.

== Cardboard ==

Generally safe to cut. Use weights in known open spaces to hold down against warping/cupping.

=== C flute corrugated, single wall ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65mm/sec, 45% upper power, 35% lower power

=== Mat board, thick pressed fiberboard ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65mm/sec, 35% upper power, 30% lower power

== Foam ==

Be very careful with foam:

* Use only the foams we have tested below
* Watch for fire very carefully
* Stop immediately if unexpected smells happen
* Check with Mods the first time you cut a specific piece

=== Polyethylene (PE, Expanded PE) ===

It's one of the safer plastic foams because it's carbon with some hydrogen. It feels pretty solid.

_Remember to check the packaging. When ordering online some stores use polyurethane and polyethylene interchangeably._

Suggested settings
* Red Laser
** 35 mm/sec, 25% power, 2 passes, max 1" thick

=== Polyurethane (PU) ===

_DO NOT CUT._ Heating it will release toxic chlorine gas and our filters can't deal with that. It feels spongy.

=== Sources ===
Tap Plastics is a well known supplier of acrylic. They will cut sheets to size while you wait. They also have a scrap bin that is often filled with cheap pieces of acrylic. The scrap bin will also have pieces of other plastics that are not laser safe. If you have a question about the material, ask their helpful staff if the piece you want to by is acrylic.

== Paper ==

Cuts super easy on our lasers unless it's dark paper.

=== Plain paper ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65 mm/sec, 10% power

=== Linen/thick paper ===

Suggested settings
* Boss Laser, Red Laser
** Cutting
*** 65 mm/sec, 15% upper power, 10% lower power

== Worbla ==

Feels like plastic, but is laser cutter friendly. One side is sticky. You can heat it with a heat gun and form it like clay. Works great to make costume parts. An internet search for warbla will show a plethora of cool examples.

Worbla activates at 90 C.; I dipped in almost boiling water and was able to easily work it by hand. This is great stuff.

You can buy it at [http://www.cosplaysupplies.com/store.php?s=UN4V CosPlay Supplies.]

You can also [[Make_your_own_Worbla|make your own Worbla]]

= Supplies =

Also see the general [[Supply Sources and Services]] page.

== LaserBits ==
[http://www.laserbits.com/ http://www.laserbits.com/]<br/>I have not purchased from this company yet. Full line of engraving supplies.  They have Color fills and seals. Engrave a piece of acrylic and then use this stuff to fill the engraving with a different color.<br/>[http://www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-pro-color-fill-sealer.html http://www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/laserbits-pro-color-fill-sealer.html]
== Marking metal and glass ==

=== Learing ===
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emlVbVSWPT0 Video testing different techniques]

=== Thermark ===
You spray this product onto a metal or glass surface, laser it, then wash off the part that was not hit with the laser. I saw this used at TSMP on metal and the result was very good. The woman using it recommended it. I got a 6oz bottle of the spray on Thermark Laser Marking Material LMM14 Black from the manufacturers web site [http://thermark.com Thermark] for $62 plus $11 shipping UPS. Not cheap. My settings: 60W laser, 600 DPI, Stucki, speed 5, power 90.  Anything with less heat left the image susceptible to scratching off.
=== Dry Moly Lube ===

(From [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/laser-moly/ Evil Mad Scientist] web site) A can of "CRC Dry Moly Lube" sells for about $10. Clean your metal with isopropyl alcohol. Spray lube on your metal, let dry. Do this three times. They etched with 20-30% speed (laser power unspecified) which showed a big difference. Clean off the excess lube with alcohol. They say the finished image seems tough. I haven't tried this yet.

[http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?163305-Forget-Cermark-and-Plaster-of-Paris-try-this Sawmill Creek] also has a riff on this technique. He used "Sprayon LU200", 2 coats from 4 inches high. 600 DPI, 3% speed and 100% power, air assist and two passes. He cleaned it by spraying with Krud Kutter and letting it sit for a few minutes.

And... one commentator says that Cermark is so easy to use (one coat, water clean up) and fast to laser that the cost of the good stuff is not significant.

= Interesting Projects =
Things found on the web that would be interesting to try.

[https://www.pinterest.com/richardaky/laser-cut-joint-ideas/ Self locking joints] of all kinds. Good seeds for brainstorming.

[https://youtu.be/JZFbtrG2P48 Highly detailed wood inlay]. Stunning results.

Main Page

2025-09-17T03:49:00Z

Amylee:

__NOTOC__

[[File:MN_outside_2025.jpeg||Maker Nexus building]]
* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/dpyM4AhUBLDre7Cz9 1330 Orleans Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089]
* [tel:408-685-2500 408-685-2500]

=Welcome to our Maker Nexus Wiki=
[http://makernexus.org '''Maker Nexus'''] is a non-profit [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace makerspace] in Sunnyvale, California.

* If you're a new member, read the [[MN_New_Member|new member guide]], check out the [[#Maker_Tools_and_Tips|tips section]] for your area of interest, bookmark our [[MN_Member_Dashboard|member dashboard]], and [[#Maker_Supplies_and_Inspiration|get inspired]] to make!
* If you're considering joining, look at all the [[#Main_Maker_Nexus_areas|different shops we have]] or [https://www.makernexus.org/classes upcoming classes]
* To learn more about us, see our [[#About Maker Nexus|mission]], understand [[#Maker Spaces and Resources|why we champion maker spaces]], and [[#How to Contribute to This Wiki|how to contribute]] to this wiki

=About Maker Nexus=

[https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus Our mission] is to increase the capacity of individuals in our community to make things by lowering the barriers to the life changing skills, tools, and relationships that drive our modern world. We provide to people of all ages access to tools, equipment, and knowledge for prototyping, wood and metal fabrications, textiles, electronics, laser cutting, 3D printing, and much more.

We believe that unleashing the innate innovation in people can make their lives better, can improve our community, and can even change the world.

'''Our facility:'''
* [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Our facility, directions, phone number]]
* [[Maker Nexus Equipment]]

'''Services and proggrams:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/calendarmonthview Upcoming classes and events calendar]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Kids summer camps]: woodworking, metalworking, 3D printing, electronics, digital art, glassworking
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Homeschooling STEM/STEAM and school partnerships]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/teambuilding Team building events], [https://www.makernexus.org/kids-birthday-parties private party rental], [https://www.makernexus.org/reserve-a-room event space room rentals]

'''Our members:'''
* [[MN Member Dashboard|Member Dashboard]]
* [[Projects/Members|Member Projects]]
* [[MN_Safety|Our Shared Safety Responsibility]]

'''Our team:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/the-team Maker Nexus team]
* Our well-known [[MN COVID Response|COVID shield making effort]]
* Our [[Maker Store]] where you can buy some of the things our members make

[[File:mn-map.png|thumb]]

==Main Maker Nexus areas==

'''The carpeted [[MN Clean shop|clean shop]]:'''

* [[MN 3D Printers|MN 3D Printers and Modeling]]
* [[MN Laser Cutters]]
* [[MN Leatherworking Station]]
* [[MN Textiles]]

'''The concrete-floored [[MN dirty shop|dirty shop]]:'''

* [[MN Metal Shop]]

'''And the [[MN Woodshop|woodshop]] is its own thing.'''

* [[MN Woodshop]]

=Maker Tools and Tips=
* [[3D Printing and Modeling]]
** [[Mold Making]]
** [[Vacuum Forming]]
* Electronics and software
** [[Arduino]]
** [[Chromebox]]
** [[Particle.io]] (formerly Spark.io)
** [[Raspberry Pi]]
** [[Software]]
** [[Sumobots]]
** [[Virtual Reality]]
* [[Food stuff]]
* [[Laser Cutters]]
* [[Leatherworking]]
* [[Meshtastic]] network
* [[Science Topics: General]]
* [[Shopbot and Tormak|Shopbot]]
* [[Textiles]]
** [[Heatpress]]
* [[Woodshops|Woodshops, woodworking, wood turning]]

==Maker Supplies and Inspiration==

[[File:Bmo-1.jpg|100px]]
[[File:Btspeaker_2.jpg|78px]]
[[File:Gk-jena1.jpg|130px]]

* [[Inspiring projects at Maker Nexus]]
* [[Interesting Projects]]
* [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]]

=Maker Spaces and Resources=
* [[Why do we need makerspaces]]
* [[Maker Spaces|Locate a maker space in your area]]
* [[Starting a Maker Space|How to start your own community maker space]]
* [[Businesses offering discounts]] to non-profits building their own shop
* [[Curriculum for Makers|Ideas for classes]]
* [https://particle.hackster.io/PracticalProjects/particle-based-rfid-access-control-system-9373c4 A secure RFID system]

=About This Wiki=

This is an open wiki for makers. It is also the repository of public information about '''[[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Maker Nexus' makerspace]]''' in Sunnyvale, California. We document a lot of [https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus our organization] in this wiki. Read [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|about us]] here.

This wiki is about fabrication and making and a bit of hacking. It covers tools, techniques, materials, settings, and sources. Frankly, [[Shrimpware_Wiki|we set it up]] so that we wouldn't forget all the good things we have learned through hard work and getting help from our friends. Everyone is welcome to use our information.

==How to Contribute to This Wiki==

The main contributors to this wiki are members of Maker Nexus, however anyone in the world wide community is welcome to help. If you'd like to contribute, please [[Special:RequestAccount|sign up for a '''free account''']]. Once you've created an account we will give you access to edit and add to this wiki. (Note that right now only admins can change this home page. If you want to change the home page, just [[User_talk:Jschrempp| message us]] and we will get it set up.) If you need to practice your wiki editing skill - it's easy once you get used to it - try this [[sandbox page]].

If you want to contribute but don't know how to edit a Mediawiki, then you might consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide]. Or contact [[User talk:Jschrempp|Jim Schrempp]] and he will help you get started.

* [[Terms of Service]]

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]

Supply Sources and Services

2025-09-17T03:48:23Z

Amylee: Amylee moved page Supply Sources and Services to Supply Sources for Materials and Services

#REDIRECT [[Supply Sources for Materials and Services]]

Supply Sources for Materials and Services

2025-09-17T03:48:22Z

Amylee: Amylee moved page Supply Sources and Services to Supply Sources for Materials and Services

We have a little [[MN Retail|supplies store]] near the Main Entrance, but you will of course need more! Here is a list of local and online sources for materials and what we've bought there, at what price. Use this forum when the material is not specific to a particular device.

== General Suppliers ==
* [https://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/materials Ponoko] sells a range of laserable materials.
* [https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials Inventables] lots of maker suitable materials, many are not laser safe.
* [http://ikea.com Ikea] sells lots of small wooden items (spoons, coat hangers, wood cutting boards, etc) that can be laser etched as great gifts.
* [https://makerstock.com Makerstock] sells all kinds of materials.

== Plastics ==

Acrylic: Cast and Extruded.
* '''Cast''' has a more uniform size and will produce a better raster effect.
* '''Extruded''' works well for cutting; thickness can vary a bit across the sheet.
* '''Cast''' has a paper protection on both sides that can be removed after lasering.
* '''Extruded''' comes with a PVC plastic protection layer on both sides that needs to be removed before lasering. Commonly comes in 3mm, 6mm, and thicker.

''Note: be sure to clarify if plastics are laserable if you intend to laser cut them at Maker Nexus!''

===[https://www.calsakplastics.com Calsak Plastics]===
* Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle, etc.

===[http://www.delviesplastics.com Delvie's Plastics]===
* Online store
* Source for Cast Acrylic sheets, 1/16" thick to 2" thick. They also carry badge pins and clips.
* Delvie's Plastics is a full line distributor of Rowmark Engraving Materials

===[https://houstonacrylic.com/ Houston Acrylic]===
* Specializes in laserable materials

===[https://www.piedmontplastics.com Piedmont Plastics]===
* San Francisco, etc.
* 33340 Central Avenue, Union City CA 94587
* 510-746-2200
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM

===[https://www.professionalplastics.com Professional Plastics]===
* 2175 Kruse Dr., San Jose, CA 95131-1214
* 408-434-9410, 800-523-2807
* Mon-Fri: 8AM-5PM

===[https://portplastics.com Port Plastics]===
* 550 E. Trimble Road #A, San Jose, CA 95131
* 408-571-2231
* Mon-Fri: 7AM-4PM

===[https://www.tapplastics.com TAP Plastics]===
* Fremont, San Jose, San Leandro, San Mateo, San Francisco, etc.
* A large selection of acrylic plastic, both cast and extruded.
* Usually have a bin of remainder odd size pieces for a few bucks each. They also sell a lot of other plastic products that are not laser safe.
* Ask them before buying something besides acrylic.
* San Jose store:
** 1212 The Alameda, San Jose, CA 95126
** 408-292-8685
** Mon-Fri 8:30AM-5:30PM
** Sat: 9AM-5PM

===[https://www.usplastic.com U.S. Plastic]===
* Good source of sheet plastic. They ship it rolled up in a tube. I cut the roll on the power shear at TechShop.
* Sytrene0.030 40x72 $10 + $10 shipping
* PET-G (Vivak)0.040 24x48 $18 + $10 shipping
* 800-537-9724

== Wood & Veneers ==

===[https://www.brucebauer.com Bruce Bauer Lumber & Supply]===
* 134 San Antonio Circle, Mountain View, CA 94040
* They will cut boards down for you (so long as the remainder of the board is sufficiently long)
* Mon-Fri 7AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-4:30PM

===[https://exoticwoodzone.com/ Exotic Wood Zone]===
* Interesting woods such as guitar wood

===[https://www.globalwoodsource.com Global Wood Source]===
* 180 East Sunnyoaks Ave Building #3, Campbell, CA 95008
* Mon-Fri 9AM-4PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://hardwoods-inc.com/hardwoods-san-jose/ Hardwoods San Jose (aka Aura Hardwoods)]===
* San Jose and online
* 620 Quinn Ave, San Jose, CA, 95112
* Carries a full line of wood sheet goods, including Baltic Birch plywood, as well as an extensive selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods.
* If you take your Maker Nexus badge, and let them know that you are a member of MN, you will be able to use our pricing level.
* They are cool with you breaking down lumber in their parking lot and their carts make an OK workbench
* They also deliver orders over $350, so larger orders can potentially be delivered directly to MN.
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.
Mon-Fri 8AM-4PM

===[https://makernexuswiki.com/index.php?title=Supply_Sources&action=edit The Home Depot]===
* Sunnyvale and many locations
* Precut 24x18 panels of several plywoods. Many have a nice finish on at least one side. If you want cheap stuff, look for "door skins" - thin plywood sanded on one side.
* The Sunnyvale location has great Endesa sanded plywood (Sandeply) and has been reliably flat
* Mon-Sat 6AM-10PM
* Sun 7AM-8PM

===[https://www.macbeath.com Macbeath Hardwood]===
* 930 Ashby Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-4:30PM
* Sat 9AM-3PM

===[https://mayanhardwood.com Mayan Hardwood]===
* Oxnard, Paso Robles.

===[https://moorenewton.com Moore Newton]===
* 2115 Williams St, San Leandro, CA 94577
* Mon-Fri 8AM-4:30PM
* They will do some cutting of lumber for you, but you can also cut it yourself in the parking lot
* They will do delivery to MN
* Coordinate with staff in advance to use this option or delivery will be refused.

===[https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store/san-carlos Woodcraft]===
* 40 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
* Has a large selection of great woods. Some plywood panels, pre-cut
* Carries their Wood River brand of tools
* Mon-Fri 9AM-6PM
* Sat 9AM-5PM
* Sun 11AM-4PM

== Wood CNC and Tools ==

===[https://www.freudtools.com Freud]===
* End mills and other bits
* Lots of [https://www.freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/joinery joinery bits]

===[https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com Whiteside Machine Company]===
* End mills and other bits for CNC and routers

== Wood Services ==

=== Sharpening and Honing ===

Sharpening and honing for chisels, saw blades, and more.

* [https://acmesawshop.com/ Acme Saw Shop]

== Metal Structure ==

=== Aluminum Extrusion ===

====[https://us.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]====
* These folks specialize in parts that can be configured at the time of order. I found them referred to from some web sites as a low cost source of accurately cut aluminum frame parts - 2020, 2040, 4080, 2525, etc - just about any size member that is made. You can order cut to length, but also with holes at locations you define and stuff like that. You can also buy stuff like a plate with four holes. You specify all the specs of size of plate, location of holes, size of holes, etc. It's like they've made a bunch of parametric designs and provided a web-interface that lets your specify the parameters and them to set a cost. Cool, cool, cool. These guys are also the referenced "best quality" linear guide rails. But pricing is about 5X a part you can buy from China.

=== Bearings ===
A specification for "all possible bearings" is the [https://drive.google.com/drive/u/3/folders/1Tjw7rG10pfDGDbMKdjtABqIrwmNcHksO NTN Bearing Corporation catalog] available on our member share drive.

* This [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZ5PPHH Amazon seller] has a lot of smaller bearings.
* There are also Amazon sellers with multiple regular bearing sizes.

=== Aluminum Posts ===
[https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-12-13mm-Seamless-Straight/dp/B07YKWJJGD Amazon seller] with a drop down for lots of sizes.

== All Metals ==

===[https://industrialmetalsupply.com Industrial Metal Supply (IMS)]===
* 569 Charcot Ave. San Jose, CA 95131
* Formerly Campbell Metal
* Full-range metal supplier. Large selection of aluminum plate/bar remnants in their “rem center” (~$3.50/lb, $35 minimum).

===[https://www.simsmm.com/locations/san-jose-california/ Sims Metal San Jose]===
* 1800 Monterey Highway, San Jose, CA 95112
* Scrap metal buyer and reseller.
* Mon-Fri 7AM-4PM
* Sat 8AM-12PM

===[https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city Alan Steel Redwood City]===
* 505 E Bayshore Rd Redwood City, CA 94063
* Primarily a scrap/salvage yard, with a large selection of steel of all kinds and smaller selection of other materials.
* Prices can be arbitrary, but the selection is unbeatable.
* Mon-Thu 8AM-4PM

===[https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/location/san-jose/ Metal Supermarkets]===
* 2413 Zanker Rd, San Jose, CA 95131
* A franchise.
* Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM
* Sat 8AM-1PM

===[https://coastaluminum.com/ Coast Aluminum, Inc.]===
* Hayward, Fresno, etc.
* 30551 Huntwood Avenue, Hayward, CA 94544

== Metal Parts Cut to Order ==

===[http://fabworks.com Fabworks]===
* On-demand sheet metal services.
* Laser Cutting, Bending, Hardware, Countersinking, Tapping, and Powder Coating for Aluminum, Steel, and Stainless sheet metal.
* Upload a .STEP file (e.g. output from OnShape or Fusion 360), and get instant quotes (with excellent prices). Turnaround time is quick, and there's free shipping too.

===[http://SendCutSend.com Send Cut Send]===
* You upload a DXF file, pick the material and get an instant quote.
They cut it and send it with free shipping. Laser cut metal, plastics, and composites.

===[https://www.xometry.com/ Xometry]===

== Paper and Cardboard ==

===[https://kellyspicers.com Kelly Spicers (was Kelly Paper)]===
* San Jose, Palo Alto
* Wide selection of paper stock, corrugated cardboard, paperboard
* Also foam, cardboard sheets and boxes, packing materials
* Words well on our laser cutters, hot wire cutter
* Thick linen paper is really nice to cut
* Mon-Fri 7:30AM-5PM

== 3D printer filament ==

===[https://www.esun3d.com/ eSun]===

Available directly from them and on Amazon. PLA+ and PETG+ have been very reliable. Packaging is good.

===[https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers]===

===[https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/ Prusament]===

PLA, PTEG are reliable

===[https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/filament Printed Solid]===

Sells Prusament and Jessie

== Electronics Parts ==

===LED strips===
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=meijiajia+led+neon+strip+lights&crid=12E4VSKLOUF2Y&sprefix=meijiajia%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_9 Neon LED strips], like the one used in our "[https://app.amilia.com/store/en/makernexus/shop/activities/5776275 Make an LED Neon Sign]" class
* [https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cuttable+12V+LED+strip&crid=36ISWSZ4II4AD&sprefix=cuttable+12v+led+stri%2Caps%2C150&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Cuttable 12V LED strip lighting]

== Fittings ==
Hinges, locks, pen parts, etc

===[https://www.brusso.com/hinges/ Brusso]===

===[https://www.mcmaster.com McMaster Carr]===
The world of all the fasteners you didn't know you needed including:
* Machine screws, including metric screws
* Thumb screws
* Metal rods
* Springs, pins, and anchors
* Magnets
* Pipe adapters
* Tools

== Sewing, Quilting, Textiles ==

===[https://allstitch.com/ AllStitch]===

===[https://rnk-floriani.com/ Floriani]===

===[https://redrockthreads.com/ Red Rock Threads]===

===[https://mobile.sewmanyparts.com/ Sew Many Parts]===
* Good Madeira thread

== Embroidery Designs==

===[https://emblibrary.com/# Embroidery Library]===

===[https://urbanthreads.com/index.php# Urban Threads]===

===[https://www.wawak.com/ WAWAK]===

== Interesting Bits ==
Things that you might not know you need.

* LED sign standoffs can be used to illuminate etched acrylic. [https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CMMZF3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePHjEbAFYJVB5 On Amazon]

* Tamper Resistant nuts and bolts. What a wild assortment of clever ideas. Some are similar to security by obscurity - special tools needed.
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fasteners/?s=tamper+resistant+fasteners on McMaster Carr]

===[https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates Grimco substrates]===
* Various materials like aluminum, magnetic, and sign blanks
* Including [https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-651-intermediate-cal Oracal vinyl]

===[https://signwarehouse.com/ Sign Warehouse]===
* including [https://signwarehouse.com/collections/3m-printable-vinyl-wraps-and-supplies 3M printable vinyl]

Maker Spaces in the US and Canada

2025-07-19T21:46:48Z

Amylee:

=San Francisco Bay Area=

==Resources==
If you need to make, below are maker spaces that you might consider using.

If you need a job in the maker community of SF... [https://sfmade.org/services/job-seeker/job-listings/ SFMade Job Board]

==Peninsula==
* [[Foster City Library]]
* [[Foothill College Makerspace]] - Office enviroment. Helix laser cutter. Several 3D printers. Software on computers. Dremel CNC machines.
* [[South San Francisco Public Library]] - 3D printers, sewing, Arduino
* [https://kitchentowncentral.com/ Kitchentown Central] - makerspace for food startups in San Mateo

==Greater Bay Area==
* [http://www.chimeraarts.org/ Chimera] - Sebastopol. Small hobbyist space.
* [https://santacruz.ideafablabs.com/ Idea Fab Labs] - Santa Cruz
* [https://www.thecybergarage.com/our-story/ Cyber Garage] - Marin. K-12 focus.
* [https://www.beniciamakerspace.org/ Benicia Makerspace]

==SF City==
* [[Noisebridge]] - SF. Open to public. Run as a consensus organization.
* [https://www.humanmade.org/ Human Made] - Makerspace and advanced manufacturing training center
* [https://sequoiafabrica.org/ Sequoia Fabrica] - An intergenerational community workshop in the San Francisco’s Potrero Hill neighborhood fostering the next generation of makers, designers and craftspeople
* [[Box Shop SF]] - sheet metal and sculpture artists
* [[ManyLabs]] - Co-working space
* [https://pev.works/ PEV Works] - Specialized towards Personal Electric Vehicles with a light makerspace.
* [https://queeriouslabs.com/ Queerious Labs] - experimental art and technology creative space and community workshop
* [https://doubleunion.org Double Union] is a hacker/maker space and community workshop in San Francisco.
* [https://pev.works PEV] - personal electric vehicle workshop

==East Bay==
* [[The Crucible ]] - Metalworking
* [[Ace Makerspace]]
* [https://www.robotgarden.org/about-us/ Robot Garden] in Livermore
* [[The Compound Gallery]]
* [[Lower 48 Woodshop]] - small wood shop
* [http://mothership.hackermoms.org/ Mothership Hacker Moms] - Berkeley
* [[Circuit Launch]] - electronics, Berkeley
* [http://girlsgarage.org Girls Garage] - design and construction school for girls and gender-expansive youth ages 9-18
* [[Sudo Room]]
* [https://bayareamaker.farm/ Bay Area Maker Farm] - an outdoor workspace and urban farm in Alameda
* [https://counterculturelabs.org Counter Culture Labs] - A Community Supported Microbiology Maker Space
* [https://haywardtechies.club/ Hayward Techies] - a Meetup group that wants to start a makerspace in Hayward

==South Bay==
* [[Hacker Dojo]] - Santa Clara. Closed during COVID; expected to reopen in the future.
* [http://makernexus.org Maker Nexus] - Sunnyvale
* [http://www.schoolofvisualphilosophy.com/ School of Visual Philosophy] - 425 Auzerais, 95126. An office with cnc machines in it.
* [[Coyote Grange]] - South San Jose community room, summer maker classes. Wants to increase the program.
* [https://biocurious.org Bio Curious] - community lab space for biology
* [https://pawprintprototyping.org/contact/ Paw Print Prototyping] - a hackerspace

== Networking Groups of Makers locally ==
* [https://www.meetup.com/Cupertinker-Space Cupertinker]
* [https://www.meetup.com/techiefamilies/ Techie/Maker Families]
* [https://groups.google.com/group/hbrobotics HomeBrew Robotics]
* [https://www.meetup.com/TechshopSJ/ Makers San Jose Meetup]
* [https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Bay_Area_Consortium_of_Hackerspaces Bay Area Consortium of Hackerspaces]
* [https://www.nationofmakers.us/ Nation of Makers] - sponsored by the government

=Central California=
* [https://madestudio.spaces.nexudus.com/home Made Studio] in Sacramento

=Western USA=

==Arizona==
[https://gangplankhq.com/vision/ Gangplank]

==New Mexico==
[https://www.quelab.net/ Quelabs] in Albuquerque

==Northern California==
[http://www.truckeeroundhouse.org/ Truckee Roundhouse]

==Southern California==
[http://urbanworkshop.net/ Urban Workshop] in Costa Mesa.

=Mid West USA=

== Illinois ==
* [https://rivercitylabs.space/ River City Labs] in Peoria.

==Minnesota==
* [http://www.tcmaker.org/blog/ Twin Cities Maker] they run The Hack Factory in Minneapolis
* [https://milwaukeemakerspace.org/join/ Milwaukee Maker Space] have some good videos on how the shop runs.

==Ohio==
* [http://themanufactory.us/ The Manufactory] in Cincinnati.

==Michigan==
* [http://maker-works.com/ Maker Works] in Ann Arbor.

==Wisconsin==
* [https://wiki.milwaukeemakerspace.org/ Milwaukee Makerspace]

=Eastern USA=

==Baltimore==
* [http://www.openworksbmore.com/ Open Works]
* [http://foundery.com/ The Foundery]

==Virginia==
* [http://www.nova-labs.org/about/ Nova Labs, Reston]
* [http://www.rvamakerguild.org/ RVA Maker Guild, Richmond]

==Pittsburg==
* [[Pittsburg Resources]]

==Connecticut==
* [http://www.fcmakers.com/membership Fairfield County Makers Guild]
* [http://nesit.org/index.php/about-nesit/ NESIT makerspace Meridan]

==South Carolina==
* [https://www.reforge.io/ ReForge] A nice space located in a shopping mall.

==Florida==
* [https://tampahackerspace.com/ Tampa Hacker Space]

==Maryland==
* [[Frederick Innovative Technology Center (FITCI)]]

=South Eastern USA=

[http://nwlamakerspace.org/home.html NWLA Maker Space in Bossier], Louisiana

[https://www.modelcitymaker.space/about.php Model City Makers], Tennessee

=Canada=

==Western Canada==

* [https://makercube.ca Maker Cube]
* [https://www.makerlabs.com MakerLabs]
* [https://www.saskatoonmakerspace.com Saskatoon Makerspace]
* [https://vanhack.ca/wp/ Vancouver Hack Space (VHS)]

==Eastern Canada==

* [https://hacklab.to HackLab.TO]
* [https://www.site3.ca Site 3 CoLaboratory]
* [https://www.sproutsmakerspace.ca Sprouts Maker Space]
* [https://ttlmakerspace.com TTLMakerspace]

[[Category:Makerspace]]

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T21:52:33Z

Amylee: /* Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix */

QR Code Landing Page

== Recent Changes to Policy or Procedures ==

9/17/2023: We have a QR code on the Helix that links to this page. We'd enjoy feedback on what could make this page more useful. Join us on Slack in #equipment-reference-webpages or email info@makernexus.org

9/7/2023: None at this time

== Specifics ==
* 45 Watt
* 18" x 24" bed (450 x 600 mm)
* vents to a filter. No MDF, leather, or other smokey/smelly materials.
* on long term loan to MN

== Training ==
* links to Equipment Training class documents in the MN Members Team Drive
* links to specific BossLaser videos
* [[Laser Cutters|Information common to all lasers]]

[[File:Epilog-colorsettings2.jpg||400px]]

=== Color Mapping: cut multiple vectors and rasters in the same document ===
Unlike Lightburn, if you want to cut different layers and designs in the same session you need to differentiate each vector+raster operation using a different color.
* Ensure that your document uses RGB color mode (not CMYK)
* Open the print dialog, Epilog preferences, Color Mapping tab
* Note that there are defaults for red (hex code #FF0000), green (#00FF00), blue (#0000FF), and more. You can create new colors if you like.
* Each color lets you do one vector and one raster operation
* Order the colors in the order you want to cut

== Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix ==

=== To perform more than one cut/raster operation use Color Mapping ===
Is your design not being cut? Are you sure you set the line weights right but the laser doesn't seem to be working? Does it beep and the display just says "Done"?
* Check that your document is in ''inches''! (No, it's not enough just to check the ruler units.)
* Ensure your line weights are less than 0.001"
* Make a new document ''in inches'' and copy your design over if you need to

=== Are some of your cuts burning through the material but other parts of the design are not? ===
* Make sure your material is flat
* Use tape or a weight (''be very sure the laser head won't collide with the weight'') to keep the material down
* Make sure the compressed air isn't blowing your material around
* Make sure the bed is relatively flat, or put a supporting piece under it
* Temporarily set the home coordinate in the center of the material and focus there before setting the home back
* Or use a little more power because the beam will be more unfocused

=== Do you want to cut a vector more than one time? Make a copy! ===
* The Epilog will cut all vectors once, so if you layer a shape on top of itself (and use the same color if you are in Color Mapping mode) you will get an extra cut

== Documentation ==
* links to manufactures documents
* [[MN Laser Cutters|MN asset page]]

== Text for Search ==
QR Code

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T21:51:46Z

Amylee:

QR Code Landing Page

== Recent Changes to Policy or Procedures ==

9/17/2023: We have a QR code on the Helix that links to this page. We'd enjoy feedback on what could make this page more useful. Join us on Slack in #equipment-reference-webpages or email info@makernexus.org

9/7/2023: None at this time

== Specifics ==
* 45 Watt
* 18" x 24" bed (450 x 600 mm)
* vents to a filter. No MDF, leather, or other smokey/smelly materials.
* on long term loan to MN

== Training ==
* links to Equipment Training class documents in the MN Members Team Drive
* links to specific BossLaser videos
* [[Laser Cutters|Information common to all lasers]]

[[File:Epilog-colorsettings2.jpg||400px]]

=== Color Mapping: cut multiple vectors and rasters in the same document ===
Unlike Lightburn, if you want to cut different layers and designs in the same session you need to differentiate each vector+raster operation using a different color.
* Ensure that your document uses RGB color mode (not CMYK)
* Open the print dialog, Epilog preferences, Color Mapping tab
* Note that there are defaults for red (hex code #FF0000), green (#00FF00), blue (#0000FF), and more. You can create new colors if you like.
* Each color lets you do one vector and one raster operation
* Order the colors in the order you want to cut

== Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix ==
* To perform more than one cut/raster operation use Color Mapping
* Is your design not being cut? Are you sure you set the line weights right but the laser doesn't seem to be working? Does it beep and the display just says "Done"?
** Check that your document is in ''inches''! (No, it's not enough just to check the ruler units.)
** Ensure your line weights are less than 0.001"
** Make a new document ''in inches'' and copy your design over if you need to
* Are some of your cuts burning through the material but other parts of the design are not?
** Make sure your material is flat
** Use tape or a weight (''be very sure the laser head won't collide with the weight'') to keep the material down
** Make sure the compressed air isn't blowing your material around
** Make sure the bed is relatively flat, or put a supporting piece under it
** Temporarily set the home coordinate in the center of the material and focus there before setting the home back
** Or use a little more power because the beam will be more unfocused
* Do you want to cut a vector more than one time? Make a copy!
** The Epilog will cut all vectors once, so if you layer a shape on top of itself (and use the same color if you are in Color Mapping mode) you will get an extra cut

== Documentation ==
* links to manufactures documents
* [[MN Laser Cutters|MN asset page]]

== Text for Search ==
QR Code

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T21:50:21Z

Amylee:

QR Code Landing Page

== Recent Changes to Policy or Procedures ==

9/17/2023: We have a QR code on the Helix that links to this page. We'd enjoy feedback on what could make this page more useful. Join us on Slack in #equipment-reference-webpages or email info@makernexus.org

9/7/2023: None at this time

== Specifics ==
* 45 Watt
* 18" x 24" bed (450 x 600 mm)
* vents to a filter. No MDF, leather, or other smokey/smelly materials.
* on long term loan to MN

== Training ==
* links to Equipment Training class documents in the MN Members Team Drive
* links to specific BossLaser videos
* [[Laser Cutters|Information common to all lasers]]

[[File:Epilog-colorsettings2.jpg||400px]]

=== Color Mapping: cut multiple vectors and rasters in the same document ===
Unlike Lightburn, if you want to cut different layers and designs in the same session you need to differentiate each vector+raster operation using a different color.
* Ensure that your document uses RGB color mode (not CMYK)
* Open the print dialog, Epilog preferences, Color Settings tab
* Note that there are defaults for red (hex code #FF0000), green (#00FF00), blue (#0000FF), and more. You can create new colors if you like.
* Each color lets you do one vector and one raster operation
* Order the colors in the order you want to cut

== Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix ==
* To perform more than one cut/raster operation use Color Mapping
* Is your design not being cut? Are you sure you set the line weights right but the laser doesn't seem to be working? Does it beep and the display just says "Done"?
** Check that your document is in ''inches''! (No, it's not enough just to check the ruler units.)
** Ensure your line weights are less than 0.001"
** Make a new document ''in inches'' and copy your design over if you need to
* Are some of your cuts burning through the material but other parts of the design are not?
** Make sure your material is flat
** Use tape or a weight (''be very sure the laser head won't collide with the weight'') to keep the material down
** Make sure the compressed air isn't blowing your material around
** Make sure the bed is relatively flat, or put a supporting piece under it
** Temporarily set the home coordinate in the center of the material and focus there before setting the home back
** Or use a little more power because the beam will be more unfocused

== Documentation ==
* links to manufactures documents
* [[MN Laser Cutters|MN asset page]]

== Text for Search ==
QR Code

File:Epilog-colorsettings2.jpg

2025-06-30T21:47:09Z

Amylee:

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T21:29:13Z

Amylee: /* Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix */

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T21:24:53Z

Amylee:

Red Laser

2025-06-30T14:33:43Z

Amylee:

QR Code Landing Page

== Recent Changes to Policy or Procedures ==
9/7/2023: None at this time

== Specifics ==
* Chinese parts, no make or model.
* 100 watt
* bed size: 19.6x27.5" (500x700 mm)
* vents to a filter. MDF, leather, other smokey/smelly materials are not allowed.

== Training ==
* links to Equipment Training class documents in the MN Members Team Drive
* links to specific BossLaser videos
* [[Laser Cutters|Information common to all lasers]]

== Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix ==
* Using [[Lightburn]] at home
** select "Ruida" for controller, "Serial/USB", name it, set appropriate bed dimensions, set origin to "Rear Right".

== Documentation ==
* links to manufactures documents
* [[MN Laser Cutters|MN asset page]]

== Troubleshooting ==
Q: The jog buttons move only one increment for each press instead of gliding along.
:A: Manual Set+ -> Mode -> "continue". Similarly, if you want it to move in small increments it's Manual Set > Mode > "manual". And you can adjust the size of increments in the same menu as well

BossLaser LS2440

2025-06-30T14:31:34Z

Amylee: /* Specifics */

QR Code Landing Page

== Recent Changes to Policy or Procedures ==
9/7/2023: None at this time

== Specifics ==
* 100 watt
* 24" x 40" bed (600 x 1000 mm)
** BOSS physical working range: 24" x 39.0". [[Lightburn]] constraint (or maybe BOSS software): about 24"x36". Maximum sheet size that can be placed in the enclosure (overlapping the actual bed: bigger than 24" and bigger than 40", but not exactly sure and your positioning of a sheet that size requires planning.
* vents to a filter. No MDF, leather, or other smokey/smelly materials.
* based on testing by a member, the kerf is 0.004" or 0.1016mm

== Training ==
* links to Equipment Training class documents in the MN Members Team Drive
* links to specific BossLaser videos
* [[Laser Cutters|Information common to all lasers]]

== Tips / Tricks specific to the Helix ==
* Using Lightburn at home
** select "Ruida" for controller, "Serial/USB", name it, set appropriate bed dimensions (BossLaser is approximately X-axis 1016 mm, Y-axis 609 mm), set origin to "Rear Right".
The file capacity is 99 files. Once full, new files will not be accepted from the computer to the controller. You may delete files one-by-one or clear them all with Files -> Other -> Delete All Memory Files
Class: [[Equipment Training Class: 100W Laser Cutter, BossLaser LS2440]] details

== Documentation ==
* links to manufactures documents
* [[MN Laser Cutters|MN asset page]]

MN Laser Cutters

2025-06-30T14:31:04Z

Amylee: /* Laser Cutters Reference */

[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Clean Shop]]

[[File:mn-bosslaser.jpeg|400px|100W laser cutters]]
[[File:mn-epilog.jpeg|400px|45W laser cutter]]

Our [[Laser Cutters|laser cutters]] are one of the most used tools because it's fast and accurate to cut out your designs. In our facility, you will first set up your design in a vector program like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDRAW. If working with the lower power [[Epilog Helix]], you will "print" your design from the attached computer. Our other two 100W lasers use Lightburn to set the carving order and power settings.

== Laser Cutters Reference ==
* [[Epilog Helix]] - 45W, 18x24" (450x600 mm)
* [[BossLaser LS2440]] - 100W, 24x40" (600x1000 mm)
* [[Red Laser]] - 100W, 19.6x27.5" (500x700 mm)

==Filters==
3 BOFA HEPA filters

==Air Compressors==

== Recommended CO2 Laser cutter / Engraver settings ==

=== Boss Laser 100W ===

The following is extracted from a historical
[https://web.archive.org/web/20210414201911/https://www.bosslaser.com/laser-settings/ page]
on the Boss Laser for 100W settings

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|ACRYLIC - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || ANY
|-
|ACRYLIC - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Anodized Aluminum - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || ANY
|-
|Balsa Wood - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Balsa Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Bass Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Bass Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Birch Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Wood - Cutting || 70 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Birch Plywood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Plywood - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Cardboard - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Cardboard - Cutting || 60 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Ceramic - Engraving || 40 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Glass - Engraving || 25 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Granite - Engraving || 25 || 275 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Engraving || 18 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Powder-coated Metal - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Mirror - Back-side; Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Paper - Cutting || 15 || 25 || N/A || 1/100"
|-
|Romark - Multi-colored; Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Foam - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/4"
|}

=== Member Settings ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|CARDBOARD - C Flute || 45, 35 || 65 || - || 3mm
|-
|PAPER - Cardstock || 10 || 65 || - || 80 lb
|-
|PAPER - Linen paper || 15 || 65 || - || Thick
|-
|}

==Software==
See [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Lightburn Lighburn]

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T14:30:23Z

Amylee:

Epilog Helix

2025-06-30T14:29:57Z

Amylee:

MN Laser Cutters

2025-06-30T14:28:56Z

Amylee: /* Laser Cutters Reference */

[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:Clean Shop]]

[[File:mn-bosslaser.jpeg|400px|100W laser cutters]]
[[File:mn-epilog.jpeg|400px|45W laser cutter]]

Our [[Laser Cutters|laser cutters]] are one of the most used tools because it's fast and accurate to cut out your designs. In our facility, you will first set up your design in a vector program like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDRAW. If working with the lower power [[Epilog Helix]], you will "print" your design from the attached computer. Our other two 100W lasers use Lightburn to set the carving order and power settings.

== Laser Cutters Reference ==
* [[Epilog Helix]] - 45W, 24x18" (600x450 mm)
* [[BossLaser LS2440]] - 100W, 40x24" (1000x600 mm)
* [[Red Laser]] - 100W, 27.5x19.6" (700x500 mm)

==Filters==
3 BOFA HEPA filters

==Air Compressors==

== Recommended CO2 Laser cutter / Engraver settings ==

=== Boss Laser 100W ===

The following is extracted from a historical
[https://web.archive.org/web/20210414201911/https://www.bosslaser.com/laser-settings/ page]
on the Boss Laser for 100W settings

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|ACRYLIC - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || ANY
|-
|ACRYLIC - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Anodized Aluminum - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || ANY
|-
|Balsa Wood - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Balsa Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Bass Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Bass Wood - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Birch Wood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Wood - Cutting || 70 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Birch Plywood - Engraving || 25 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Birch Plywood - Cutting || 75 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Cardboard - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Cardboard - Cutting || 60 || 15 || N/A || 1/4"
|-
|Ceramic - Engraving || 40 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Glass - Engraving || 25 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Granite - Engraving || 25 || 275 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Engraving || 18 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Leather - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Powder-coated Metal - Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Mirror - Back-side; Engraving || 20 || 325 || .065 || Any
|-
|Paper - Cutting || 15 || 25 || N/A || 1/100"
|-
|Romark - Multi-colored; Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Engraving || 20 || 350 || .065 || Any
|-
|Rubber - Cutting || 75 || 12 || N/A || 1/8"
|-
|Foam - Cutting || 55 || 25 || N/A || 1/4"
|}

=== Member Settings ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+ CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Settings For Common Materials
|-
!Material || Power % || Speed(mm/s) || Interval / scan <br> GAP (mm) || Thickness
|-
|CARDBOARD - C Flute || 45, 35 || 65 || - || 3mm
|-
|PAPER - Cardstock || 10 || 65 || - || 80 lb
|-
|PAPER - Linen paper || 15 || 65 || - || Thick
|-
|}

==Software==
See [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Lightburn Lighburn]

Epilog Helix

2025-06-27T21:48:10Z

Amylee:

Main Page

2025-06-25T17:45:00Z

Amylee:

__NOTOC__

[[File:MN_outside_2025.jpeg||Maker Nexus building]]
* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/dpyM4AhUBLDre7Cz9 1330 Orleans Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089]
* [tel:408-685-2500 408-685-2500]

=Welcome to our Maker Nexus Wiki=
[http://makernexus.org '''Maker Nexus'''] is a non-profit [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace makerspace] in Sunnyvale, California.

* If you're a new member, read the [[MN_New_Member|new member guide]], check out the [[#Maker_Tools_and_Tips|tips section]] for your area of interest, bookmark our [[MN_Member_Dashboard|member dashboard]], and [[#Maker_Supplies_and_Inspiration|get inspired]] to make!
* If you're considering joining, look at all the [[#Main_Maker_Nexus_areas|different shops we have]] or [https://www.makernexus.org/classes upcoming classes]
* To learn more about us, see our [[#About Maker Nexus|mission]], understand [[#Maker Spaces and Resources|why we champion maker spaces]], and [[#How to Contribute to This Wiki|how to contribute]] to this wiki

=About Maker Nexus=

[https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus Our mission] is to increase the capacity of individuals in our community to make things by lowering the barriers to the life changing skills, tools, and relationships that drive our modern world. We provide to people of all ages access to tools, equipment, and knowledge for prototyping, wood and metal fabrications, textiles, electronics, laser cutting, 3D printing, and much more.

We believe that unleashing the innate innovation in people can make their lives better, can improve our community, and can even change the world.

'''Our facility:'''
* [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Our facility, directions, phone number]]
* [[Maker Nexus Equipment]]

'''Services and proggrams:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/calendarmonthview Upcoming classes and events calendar]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Kids summer camps]: woodworking, metalworking, 3D printing, electronics, digital art, glassworking
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Homeschooling STEM/STEAM and school partnerships]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/teambuilding Team building events], [https://www.makernexus.org/kids-birthday-parties private party rental], [https://www.makernexus.org/reserve-a-room event space room rentals]

'''Our members:'''
* [[MN Member Dashboard|Member Dashboard]]
* [[Projects/Members|Member Projects]]
* [[MN_Safety|Our Shared Safety Responsibility]]

'''Our team:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/the-team Maker Nexus team]
* Our well-known [[MN COVID Response|COVID shield making effort]]
* Our [[Maker Store]] where you can buy some of the things our members make

[[File:mn-map.png|thumb]]

==Main Maker Nexus areas==

'''The carpeted [[MN Clean shop|clean shop]]:'''

* [[MN 3D Printers|MN 3D Printers and Modeling]]
* [[MN Laser Cutters]]
* [[MN Leatherworking Station]]
* [[MN Textiles]]

'''The concrete-floored [[MN dirty shop|dirty shop]]:'''

* [[MN Metal Shop]]

'''And the [[MN Woodshop|woodshop]] is its own thing.'''

* [[MN Woodshop]]

=Maker Tools and Tips=
* [[3D Printing and Modeling]]
** [[Mold Making]]
** [[Vacuum Forming]]
* Electronics and software
** [[Arduino]]
** [[Chromebox]]
** [[Particle.io]] (formerly Spark.io)
** [[Raspberry Pi]]
** [[Software]]
** [[Sumobots]]
** [[Virtual Reality]]
* [[Food stuff]]
* [[Laser Cutters]]
* [[Leatherworking]]
* [[Meshtastic]] network
* [[Science Topics: General]]
* [[Shopbot and Tormak|Shopbot]]
* [[Textiles]]
** [[Heatpress]]
* [[Woodshops|Woodshops, woodworking, wood turning]]

==Maker Supplies and Inspiration==

[[File:Bmo-1.jpg|100px]]
[[File:Btspeaker_2.jpg|78px]]
[[File:Gk-jena1.jpg|130px]]

* [[Inspiring projects at Maker Nexus]]
* [[Interesting Projects]]
* [[Supply Sources and Services]]

=Maker Spaces and Resources=
* [[Why do we need makerspaces]]
* [[Maker Spaces|Locate a maker space in your area]]
* [[Starting a Maker Space|How to start your own community maker space]]
* [[Businesses offering discounts]] to non-profits building their own shop
* [[Curriculum for Makers|Ideas for classes]]
* [https://particle.hackster.io/PracticalProjects/particle-based-rfid-access-control-system-9373c4 A secure RFID system]

=About This Wiki=

This is an open wiki for makers. It is also the repository of public information about '''[[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Maker Nexus' makerspace]]''' in Sunnyvale, California. We document a lot of [https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus our organization] in this wiki. Read [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|about us]] here.

This wiki is about fabrication and making and a bit of hacking. It covers tools, techniques, materials, settings, and sources. Frankly, [[Shrimpware_Wiki|we set it up]] so that we wouldn't forget all the good things we have learned through hard work and getting help from our friends. Everyone is welcome to use our information.

==How to Contribute to This Wiki==

The main contributors to this wiki are members of Maker Nexus, however anyone in the world wide community is welcome to help. If you'd like to contribute, please [[Special:RequestAccount|sign up for a '''free account''']]. Once you've created an account we will give you access to edit and add to this wiki. (Note that right now only admins can change this home page. If you want to change the home page, just [[User_talk:Jschrempp| message us]] and we will get it set up.) If you need to practice your wiki editing skill - it's easy once you get used to it - try this [[sandbox page]].

If you want to contribute but don't know how to edit a Mediawiki, then you might consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide]. Or contact [[User talk:Jschrempp|Jim Schrempp]] and he will help you get started.

* [[Terms of Service]]

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]

Inspiring projects at Maker Nexus

2025-06-25T17:42:17Z

Amylee:

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]

= Get inspired! =

At Maker Nexus, let your imagination take flight! These are some of the projects that combine various skillsets and have a really nice execution.

__TOC__

== Liam's clock bot ==

[[File:Bmo-1.jpg|500px]]

[[File:Bmo-2.jpg|150px]]
[[File:Bmo-3.jpg|150px]]
[[File:Bmo-4.jpg|150px]]

''A personal creation. Made with wood, electronics, and metal accents.''

Inspired by the [https://adventuretime.fandom.com/wiki/BMO BMO robot] from the Adventure Time cartoon, Liam's little wood bot features an LED matrix screen, mitered wood case, little wooden feet, and a little brass loop light bulb antenna!

The bot stands about 8" tall and is built around a little 4" [https://divoom.com/products/divoom-timebox-evo Divoom Timebox-Evo art speaker]. It features a custom 30-frame animation that Liam created via the Divoom app---no other software needed! It will also display the current time for a few seconds before resuming the animation

The screen case is made from 3/4" solid maple with mitered joinery, and a 1" border face frame to hide the edges of the speaker. The chamfers were done on a trim router. The cute antenna is a thin copper rod bent around a pipe, and buffed to a high shine.

Materials:
* Maple wood, 3/4"
* Divoom Timebox-Evo art speaker
* Copper rod
* Wood glue
* Water-based polyurethane finish

== Dani's Bluetooth speaker class ==

[[File:Btspeaker_2.jpg|500px]]

[[File:Dbt-2.jpg|150px]]
[[File:Dbt-3.jpg|150px]]

''A project kit taught as a class. Made with laser-cut acrylic and electronics.''

Dani created this project kit based on teaching a summer camp class at the [https://moxi.org moxi museum] in Santa Barabara. She sourced the speaker driver, the Bluetooth amplifier board, and designed the plastic housing:

* the dimensions of the speaker box are based on the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_ratio Golden Ratio], so the length x width x height have the ratio 1.6:1.0:0.6
* Dani designed the overlapping joinery to cut the plastic on a laser cutter
* the face of the box is just wide enough to fit the driver
* the amp board accepts a 12V DC power transformer and connects with a potentiometer
* the kit requires simple soldering and heat shrink wrapping the exposed wires
* students also practice gluing the box together with [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate CA glue] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvent_bonding solvent welding]

== GK's name arabesque ==

[[File:Gk-jena1.jpg|400px]]

[[File:Gk-jena2.jpg|150px]]
[[File:Gk-jena3.jpg|116px]]
[[File:Gk-jena4.jpg|150px]]

''A personal creation. Made with laser-cut plywood, lumber, and acrylic.''

GK has now made several nameplates using repeating geometric [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arabesque arabesque designs]. This particular nameplate made for his daughter Jena is made from 4 slightly rotated patterns cut into 1/8" mahogany plywood. The frame is cut from solid walnut, the acrylic window was laser cut. Coming from a design background, it was easy for GK to use Illustrator to create the designs, but the challenge was in the manufacturing. He found that 2mm was the minimum line width for cutting plywood without it breaking. He had to figure out how to glue the "islands" of plywood in perfect position as you see in the "e" and "a". And his experimentation led to using a second piece of colored acrylic under the design to really make the name pop out with this much contrast.

Materials:
* 1/8" mahogany plywood
* Solid walnut S2S stick
* Clear 1/8" acrylic
* Orange colored 1/8" acrylic
* Wood glue

File:Btspeaker 2.jpg

2025-06-25T17:42:03Z

Amylee:

Main Page

2025-06-25T16:59:39Z

Amylee: /* About Maker Nexus */

__NOTOC__

[[File:MN_outside_2025.jpeg||Maker Nexus building]]
* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/dpyM4AhUBLDre7Cz9 1330 Orleans Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089]
* [tel:408-685-2500 408-685-2500]

=Welcome to our Maker Nexus Wiki=
[http://makernexus.org '''Maker Nexus'''] is a non-profit [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace makerspace] in Sunnyvale, California.

* If you're a new member, read the [[MN_New_Member|new member guide]], check out the [[#Maker_Tools_and_Tips|tips section]] for your area of interest, bookmark our [[MN_Member_Dashboard|member dashboard]], and [[#Maker_Supplies_and_Inspiration|get inspired]] to make!
* If you're considering joining, look at all the [[#Main_Maker_Nexus_areas|different shops we have]] or [https://www.makernexus.org/classes upcoming classes]
* To learn more about us, see our [[#About Maker Nexus|mission]], understand [[#Maker Spaces and Resources|why we champion maker spaces]], and [[#How to Contribute to This Wiki|how to contribute]] to this wiki

=About Maker Nexus=

[https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus Our mission] is to increase the capacity of individuals in our community to make things by lowering the barriers to the life changing skills, tools, and relationships that drive our modern world. We provide to people of all ages access to tools, equipment, and knowledge for prototyping, wood and metal fabrications, textiles, electronics, laser cutting, 3D printing, and much more.

We believe that unleashing the innate innovation in people can make their lives better, can improve our community, and can even change the world.

'''Our facility:'''
* [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Our facility, directions, phone number]]
* [[Maker Nexus Equipment]]

'''Services and proggrams:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/calendarmonthview Upcoming classes and events calendar]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Kids summer camps]: woodworking, metalworking, 3D printing, electronics, digital art, glassworking
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Homeschooling STEM/STEAM and school partnerships]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/teambuilding Team building events], [https://www.makernexus.org/kids-birthday-parties private party rental], [https://www.makernexus.org/reserve-a-room event space room rentals]

'''Our members:'''
* [[MN Member Dashboard|Member Dashboard]]
* [[Projects/Members|Member Projects]]
* [[MN_Safety|Our Shared Safety Responsibility]]

'''Our team:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/the-team Maker Nexus team]
* Our well-known [[MN COVID Response|COVID shield making effort]]
* Our [[Maker Store]] where you can buy some of the things our members make

[[File:mn-map.png|thumb]]

==Main Maker Nexus areas==

'''The carpeted [[MN Clean shop|clean shop]]:'''

* [[MN 3D Printers|MN 3D Printers and Modeling]]
* [[MN Laser Cutters]]
* [[MN Leatherworking Station]]
* [[MN Textiles]]

'''The concrete-floored [[MN dirty shop|dirty shop]]:'''

* [[MN Metal Shop]]

'''And the [[MN Woodshop|woodshop]] is its own thing.'''

* [[MN Woodshop]]

=Maker Tools and Tips=
* [[3D Printing and Modeling]]
** [[Mold Making]]
** [[Vacuum Forming]]
* Electronics and software
** [[Arduino]]
** [[Chromebox]]
** [[Particle.io]] (formerly Spark.io)
** [[Raspberry Pi]]
** [[Software]]
** [[Sumobots]]
** [[Virtual Reality]]
* [[Food stuff]]
* [[Laser Cutters]]
* [[Leatherworking]]
* [[Meshtastic]] network
* [[Science Topics: General]]
* [[Shopbot and Tormak|Shopbot]]
* [[Textiles]]
** [[Heatpress]]
* [[Woodshops|Woodshops, woodworking, wood turning]]

==Maker Supplies and Inspiration==

* [[Inspiring projects at Maker Nexus]]
* [[Interesting Projects]]
* [[Supply Sources and Services]]

=Maker Spaces and Resources=
* [[Why do we need makerspaces]]
* [[Maker Spaces|Locate a maker space in your area]]
* [[Starting a Maker Space|How to start your own community maker space]]
* [[Businesses offering discounts]] to non-profits building their own shop
* [[Curriculum for Makers|Ideas for classes]]
* [https://particle.hackster.io/PracticalProjects/particle-based-rfid-access-control-system-9373c4 A secure RFID system]

=About This Wiki=

This is an open wiki for makers. It is also the repository of public information about '''[[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Maker Nexus' makerspace]]''' in Sunnyvale, California. We document a lot of [https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus our organization] in this wiki. Read [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|about us]] here.

This wiki is about fabrication and making and a bit of hacking. It covers tools, techniques, materials, settings, and sources. Frankly, [[Shrimpware_Wiki|we set it up]] so that we wouldn't forget all the good things we have learned through hard work and getting help from our friends. Everyone is welcome to use our information.

==How to Contribute to This Wiki==

The main contributors to this wiki are members of Maker Nexus, however anyone in the world wide community is welcome to help. If you'd like to contribute, please [[Special:RequestAccount|sign up for a '''free account''']]. Once you've created an account we will give you access to edit and add to this wiki. (Note that right now only admins can change this home page. If you want to change the home page, just [[User_talk:Jschrempp| message us]] and we will get it set up.) If you need to practice your wiki editing skill - it's easy once you get used to it - try this [[sandbox page]].

If you want to contribute but don't know how to edit a Mediawiki, then you might consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide]. Or contact [[User talk:Jschrempp|Jim Schrempp]] and he will help you get started.

* [[Terms of Service]]

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]

Main Page

2025-06-25T16:58:36Z

Amylee: /* Welcome to our Maker Nexus Wiki */

__NOTOC__

[[File:MN_outside_2025.jpeg||Maker Nexus building]]
* [https://maps.app.goo.gl/dpyM4AhUBLDre7Cz9 1330 Orleans Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089]
* [tel:408-685-2500 408-685-2500]

=Welcome to our Maker Nexus Wiki=
[http://makernexus.org '''Maker Nexus'''] is a non-profit [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace makerspace] in Sunnyvale, California.

* If you're a new member, read the [[MN_New_Member|new member guide]], check out the [[#Maker_Tools_and_Tips|tips section]] for your area of interest, bookmark our [[MN_Member_Dashboard|member dashboard]], and [[#Maker_Supplies_and_Inspiration|get inspired]] to make!
* If you're considering joining, look at all the [[#Main_Maker_Nexus_areas|different shops we have]] or [https://www.makernexus.org/classes upcoming classes]
* To learn more about us, see our [[#About Maker Nexus|mission]], understand [[#Maker Spaces and Resources|why we champion maker spaces]], and [[#How to Contribute to This Wiki|how to contribute]] to this wiki

=About Maker Nexus=

[https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus Our mission] is to increase the capacity of individuals in our community to make things by lowering the barriers to the life changing skills, tools, and relationships that drive our modern world. We provide to people of all ages access to tools, equipment, and knowledge for prototyping, wood and metal fabrications, textiles, electronics, laser cutting, 3D printing, and much more.

We believe that unleashing the innate innovation in people can make their lives better, can improve our community, and can even change the world.

'''Our facility:'''
* [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Our facility, directions, phone number]]
* [[Maker Nexus Equipment]]

'''Services and proggrams:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/calendarmonthview Upcoming classes and events calendar]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Kids summer camps]: woodworking, metalworking, 3D printing, electronics, digital art, glassworking
* [https://www.makernexus.org/youth-programs Homeschooling STEM/STEAM and school partnerships]
* [https://www.makernexus.org/teambuilding Team building events], [https://www.makernexus.org/kids-birthday-parties private party rental], [https://www.makernexus.org/reserve-a-room eEvent space room rentals]

'''Our members:'''
* [[MN Member Dashboard|Member Dashboard]]
* [[Projects/Members|Member Projects]]
* [[MN_Safety|Our Shared Safety Responsibility]]

'''Our team:'''
* [https://www.makernexus.com/the-team Maker Nexus team]
* Our well-known [[MN COVID Response|COVID shield making effort]]
* Our [[Maker Store]] where you can buy some of the things our members make

[[File:mn-map.png|thumb]]

==Main Maker Nexus areas==

'''The carpeted [[MN Clean shop|clean shop]]:'''

* [[MN 3D Printers|MN 3D Printers and Modeling]]
* [[MN Laser Cutters]]
* [[MN Leatherworking Station]]
* [[MN Textiles]]

'''The concrete-floored [[MN dirty shop|dirty shop]]:'''

* [[MN Metal Shop]]

'''And the [[MN Woodshop|woodshop]] is its own thing.'''

* [[MN Woodshop]]

=Maker Tools and Tips=
* [[3D Printing and Modeling]]
** [[Mold Making]]
** [[Vacuum Forming]]
* Electronics and software
** [[Arduino]]
** [[Chromebox]]
** [[Particle.io]] (formerly Spark.io)
** [[Raspberry Pi]]
** [[Software]]
** [[Sumobots]]
** [[Virtual Reality]]
* [[Food stuff]]
* [[Laser Cutters]]
* [[Leatherworking]]
* [[Meshtastic]] network
* [[Science Topics: General]]
* [[Shopbot and Tormak|Shopbot]]
* [[Textiles]]
** [[Heatpress]]
* [[Woodshops|Woodshops, woodworking, wood turning]]

==Maker Supplies and Inspiration==

* [[Inspiring projects at Maker Nexus]]
* [[Interesting Projects]]
* [[Supply Sources and Services]]

=Maker Spaces and Resources=
* [[Why do we need makerspaces]]
* [[Maker Spaces|Locate a maker space in your area]]
* [[Starting a Maker Space|How to start your own community maker space]]
* [[Businesses offering discounts]] to non-profits building their own shop
* [[Curriculum for Makers|Ideas for classes]]
* [https://particle.hackster.io/PracticalProjects/particle-based-rfid-access-control-system-9373c4 A secure RFID system]

=About This Wiki=

This is an open wiki for makers. It is also the repository of public information about '''[[Maker Nexus Makerspace|Maker Nexus' makerspace]]''' in Sunnyvale, California. We document a lot of [https://www.makernexus.org/aboutus our organization] in this wiki. Read [[Maker Nexus Makerspace|about us]] here.

This wiki is about fabrication and making and a bit of hacking. It covers tools, techniques, materials, settings, and sources. Frankly, [[Shrimpware_Wiki|we set it up]] so that we wouldn't forget all the good things we have learned through hard work and getting help from our friends. Everyone is welcome to use our information.

==How to Contribute to This Wiki==

The main contributors to this wiki are members of Maker Nexus, however anyone in the world wide community is welcome to help. If you'd like to contribute, please [[Special:RequestAccount|sign up for a '''free account''']]. Once you've created an account we will give you access to edit and add to this wiki. (Note that right now only admins can change this home page. If you want to change the home page, just [[User_talk:Jschrempp| message us]] and we will get it set up.) If you need to practice your wiki editing skill - it's easy once you get used to it - try this [[sandbox page]].

If you want to contribute but don't know how to edit a Mediawiki, then you might consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide]. Or contact [[User talk:Jschrempp|Jim Schrempp]] and he will help you get started.

* [[Terms of Service]]

[[Category:Maker Nexus Makerspace]]